Hello to any one that willing to check my post out. Two weeks ago i purchased a 86' tourny 190. The boat has been sitting for years, it has 04' 5,000# magic tilt under her and this weekend I mounted a 200 etec on her stern. My father and i have purchased and restored many veteran Chris Crafts and I have now found a interest in Grady's. Im used to wood hull projects and now am venturing into fiberglass. The vessel so far has been found to be in great shape but some pointers for deteriation areas would be appriciated. I have had her on the water today (Rainy Lake MN) and she run well. I have not noticed any transom deflection but wondering if anyone has any tricks of the trade for stringer and or other structural inspection points. Not many Gradys up north on Rainy Lake, doubt you could find a dozen with 50 mile radius. Im one of odd ones on the lake as most friends my age are running Skeeters, Rangers or Lunds. The boat has all ready got much appriciated attention at the resorts though. I really like the classic styling and functionality of these boats.
I'm a new member and new owner of a 190
- Thread starter GRADY RAINY
- Start date
For that year Grady, folks normally find wetness in 2 areas of the transom.....either near the bottom from screws and thru hulls not properly sealed over the years or on the top of the transom where they put a metal cap over exposed wood that was never sealed.......to check, remove some of the screws that hold the transducer or trim tabs,.....even the garbord drain plug flange...look for water or wet wood on the screws.....as far as the stringers?? You wont know till you open her up, like when replacing the fuel tank....after powerwashing, check for dark areas behind the fiberglass...that generation boat used a green colored resin, so you can see green through the glass....if you see lots of black, thats rot, and then you have to decide what to do after that......good luck with the boat...bet she;s fast with 200HP!!!
I am currently running her off of a cruisaday, next weekend i am planning on pulling the tank out as it is half full and has been sitting for almost 10 years. after i asess her a am planning on getting a little more intimate over the winter. Thanks for the input.
Parthery
GreatGrady Captain
Welcome to the forum....
I had an '86 190 Tournament with a Yamaha 150...was a great boat.
I had to replace my fuel tank...it's a relatively easy job. First, order a replacement from RDS aluminum in Perry, FL. They were one of the original suppliers to GW and have the plans on file. They will deliver it right to your door via UPS.
The floor in my 190 was solid, as was the transom. I reinforced the flip up lid for the in-floor storage box, and replaced the wooden anchor locker door with one made out of Starboard.
Post some pics....we all love boat porn here.
I had an '86 190 Tournament with a Yamaha 150...was a great boat.
I had to replace my fuel tank...it's a relatively easy job. First, order a replacement from RDS aluminum in Perry, FL. They were one of the original suppliers to GW and have the plans on file. They will deliver it right to your door via UPS.
The floor in my 190 was solid, as was the transom. I reinforced the flip up lid for the in-floor storage box, and replaced the wooden anchor locker door with one made out of Starboard.
Post some pics....we all love boat porn here.
Thanks for the info, I felt ambitious tonight after work and decided to open her up and attempt to remove the fuel tank. I siphoned 99% of the fule out and got to the point to pull the tank out. It seems as though the tank was installed prior to her upper deck. I think I will need to trim the flange on the bow end in able to remove it. My owners manual lists a 40 gallon tank as standard. I have not measured the tank and done the math, what are the odds of it having a larger optional tank, any one ever seen this? No indication that the tank was ever removed before. Is is normal for them to use natural state lumber to frame and secure the tank. It had some rubber type softeners between the wood and aluminum. I have access to a audio guage, I think I will shoot the tank and see if a replacment is required, tank repair, or if im lucky nothing but a good cleaning.
One curious question, has anyone ever seen a Grady ran to structural failure out on the water? If so what was the fatal component, transom or stringers? I spoke with an well seasoned chap last night and he claimed that he knew of a Grady that basiclly had just enough wood left in her to support the engine and that was it, the boat never did completly fail, he said it got to the point that it planed but could not raise her bow? Curious of there integrity. I was suprised to see the slightly sloppy craftsman ship in the fuel blocking. Then again it is just the fuel tank. Im used to the carpentry traits of old woody's.
Thanks for all the replys.
One curious question, has anyone ever seen a Grady ran to structural failure out on the water? If so what was the fatal component, transom or stringers? I spoke with an well seasoned chap last night and he claimed that he knew of a Grady that basiclly had just enough wood left in her to support the engine and that was it, the boat never did completly fail, he said it got to the point that it planed but could not raise her bow? Curious of there integrity. I was suprised to see the slightly sloppy craftsman ship in the fuel blocking. Then again it is just the fuel tank. Im used to the carpentry traits of old woody's.
Thanks for all the replys.
Never heard of one "failing" in the field like that.....if it were that bad, you would think the hull would have/show stress cracks a long time before a catastrophic failure should occur....the Grady hull itself is 100% solid glass.....the stringer system and transom is plywood core covered in glass...normally 3/4 inch ply stood on end for the grid and 2 to 3 layers of ply glued together for the transom core........the deck, sole and hatch covers are plywood covered in glass...to fix them, you cut the inner or underneath skin, remove the old core and prep the outer skin, re-bed a new plywood, coosa, or core of your choice and re-glass....
The Grady's of that era use naked or unglassed lumber to support the tank....is was a faux pas that many builders in the day did...nowadays, everything is glassed or composite as they have to compete with other builders touting no wood-no rot construction.
Based on my personal experience..the lumber holding your tank will be toast and need replacing....and the rubber should be glued to the tank, not the lumber, with 5200 to avoind long term rubbing and water entrapment. You'll have to cut out the wet lumber, prep the glass underneath, re-bed new lumber using epoxy, and glass over the top to seal out water....then R&R the tank....
You can normally see corrosion on the outside of the tank....pay special attention to the areas that the wood blocking or rubber strips were touching...that's the typical thin area of corrosion.....I cleaned out my tank after letting the fumes dry out, using simple green and water....let it soak and then drain and power washed it inside and out...the tank looked good on the inside after cleaning, but then it revealed all the pinholes on the top where white powdery corrosion was covering things up.....time for new tanks.
The Grady's of that era use naked or unglassed lumber to support the tank....is was a faux pas that many builders in the day did...nowadays, everything is glassed or composite as they have to compete with other builders touting no wood-no rot construction.
Based on my personal experience..the lumber holding your tank will be toast and need replacing....and the rubber should be glued to the tank, not the lumber, with 5200 to avoind long term rubbing and water entrapment. You'll have to cut out the wet lumber, prep the glass underneath, re-bed new lumber using epoxy, and glass over the top to seal out water....then R&R the tank....
You can normally see corrosion on the outside of the tank....pay special attention to the areas that the wood blocking or rubber strips were touching...that's the typical thin area of corrosion.....I cleaned out my tank after letting the fumes dry out, using simple green and water....let it soak and then drain and power washed it inside and out...the tank looked good on the inside after cleaning, but then it revealed all the pinholes on the top where white powdery corrosion was covering things up.....time for new tanks.