Kicker motor fuel line

[Grady175]

I mounted a 4 stroke kicker motor on my Spirit 175. I am currently running it off a small portable tank due to fuel issues on my main tank but I eventually want to have it run off the main tank. I have a factory installed OMC spin off fuel filter that appears to have a second location to hook both an inlet and outlet hose. I wasn't sure if these were for mounting in a different location.

What is the best way to use the main tank:
1. Use the second outlet on the main filter
2. Install a second filter
3. Put in a T fitting after the filter
4. Something else????

Appreciate any experience on this.

Thanks

 

[JUST-IN-TIME]

you want to use the filter 2nd fitting, but install an on/off fuel valve

 

[Grady175]

Thanks

 

[JUST-IN-TIME]

Thanks

yep

 

[Grady175]

Another quick question, would I find the fittings and shut off at Lowes/Home Depot type stores or is this something I've got to get from a boating store.

 

[catch22]

The way I understood it was, you want to use a 3 way valve, so that each motors fuel system is isolated from one another.

Example - http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... lassNum=90

Without the valve, there's a pontential for one motor to cause suction on the other motors fuel line/system.

I would use your existing fuel line, (after the filter). Connect the supply line to the valve's center port, and the valves left and right ports out to each motor.

 

[Amigo]

I have a 9.9 - 4 stroke mounted on my 25ft. Sailfish. It is an I/O rather than in outboard. I did not use a valve and it works just fine. Try it, if one engine robs gas from the other causing a starting problem then go for the valve.

 

[pilotart]

With main outboard and 'kicker', you would at least want check-valves
(primer bulbs have check valves in them)
to prevent running engine from sucking the fuel out of the not-running engine.

So, if you have one squeeze bulb between WSF and fuel tank,
you would then need a check-valve between each engine and the WSF.

 

[Grady175]

Thanks to everyone. I plan on using a primer bulb for the kicker motor so I'm going to find the 3 way valve. I think that is the safest. I also plan on using a "quick connect" similar to the one on the existing tank. I'll submit photos of this when I get done.

 

[JUST-IN-TIME]

you do not need a 3 way, unless duel tanks
jut an on/off for the kicker
rust me on this one

 

[pilotart]

Thanks to everyone. I plan on using a primer bulb for the kicker motor so I'm going to find the 3 way valve.
I think that is the safest. I also plan on using a "quick connect" similar to the one on the existing tank.
I'll submit photos of this when I get done.

Where will this fuel selector valve be mounted, will you have access w/o opening hatches?

For my use, I switch between 'kicker' and main engine many dozen times per trip.

I ran mine for several months on just two lines (w/primer bulbs) from WSF to motors.

After one instance of needing to reprime main engine, I added a 3/8" Ball-Check Valve
(AKA Anti-Syphon) at the WSF for the main engine and ran w/o problem for many years.

I am now replacing the fuel lines from WSF to the engines and will just have only one primer bulb
on main feed from fuel tank to the WSF.

I have ordered the 1/4" Ball-Check Valve to add for the kicker line close to the WSF.
(Grady mounted the WSF in transom close to port upper gunnel
with only room for an elbow out of second feed, so it will be in-line.)

My reason for this change is safety as well as no longer having primer bulbs exposed to sun and weather.

By being able to (prior to leaving davits) pressurize the WSF and both fuel lines and connectors,
I will be able to confirm no leakage from the filter as well as the lines and connectors.

 

[catch22]

It's funny how something this simple can become complicated.

I agree that primer bulbs have check valves... however, for them to work properly, they need to be postioned verticaly. I also don't think their check valves are very dependable.

I know someone who had a problem with a kicker set up and installing a 3 way valve corrected it.

As just in time mentioned, a shut off valve on the second fuel filter port would probably do the trick too, but Imo, the 3 way is the best way to isolate each motor... so why chance it?
Dual tanks have nothing to do with it.. single tank feeding 2 motors.

 

[pilotart]

One Primer Bulb before WSF feeding two engines

Here is a photo of the installation change I mentioned two posts up;
running two fuel lines from one Grady/Yamaha Water Separating Fuel Filter in upper rear Port Access Hatch.

The main line from the 48 Gallon Tank goes to the red end of the Primer Bulb and then on to the inlet side of the Fuel Filter
(hidden behind one of the 'fuel-out' lines).

You can see the brass check-valve at that outlet and for the second outlet the check-valve is connected to a brass male/female elbow
due to close proximity with the port gunnel. This now comes in Aluminum and called an "Anti-Siphon Valve" at WM.

By having just One Primer Bulb, it is easy to refill a new WS Filter and you can always check the whole system for leaks under pressure.

The two, ten foot fuel lines pass across in the bilge and out the Starboard Engine Control Grommet and now,
when not in use, can be slid back inside the grommet and out of the weather.

I have seen recommendation for double hose clamps, but have little room with these 3/8" hoses on 1/4" pipe fittings.
Have found that after a few weeks connected, only way to remove is to cut the hose!

My other question for the experts has to do with the plumber's teflon tape, went to hardware, autoparts, marine supply
and plumber supply but could not find any other type of tape for fuel fitting thread seal.

I have had a length of Teflon tape in a jar of gasoline for several weeks with no deterioration seen.

As mentioned above, the Anti-Siphon Check-Valves prevent the running engine from draining the other engines fuel line,
would there be any reason or need for a third check-valve at 'fuel-in' from the main tank?

(That Primer Bulb was placed there for the photo, but would usually be oriented vertically and provide its 'check-valve'.)

Have heard that they are now required at the fuel tank, but that is way out-of-sight and access now.

 

[Grady175]

pilotart,
For some reason I can't see the photo. Can you repost?

Thanks

 

[pilotart]

Tried to send this to you by PM, but it would only send it back to my inbox???

Don't know why you are not seeing that photo on my post, but here is a direct link:

http://i43.tinypic.com/2j9pc9.jpg

I normally use photobucket, this was my first try with tinypic, which is also photobucket, but simpler to use.

Should the above not work, PM me an Email address and I will attach it directly to a reply.

Art

 

[Grady175]

I know why now, I am at work and it is blocked. I'll check it out at home.

 

[Grady175]

Thank you for the pics. That helps. I'm still having varnish fuel problems but it is getting better. When I completely eliminate the fuel problems I'm going to have both engines run off the main tank. Right now the kicker motor is my insurance policy as well as a kicker motor.