Marlin Anchor and Windlass

[hinmo]

First time using my new (to me) Marlin anchor and windlass. The CQR would not catch the first 4 tries. I would like to replace it. Anyone have another type that fits on the pulpit (fortress, danforth?).

Also, the windlass clutch slipped...is there and adjustment on it, I am sure it is the original (1999)

(OT - did the website change?)

 

[DennisG01]

CQR is a good anchor - it could have been a number of factors, including odd bottom conditions. It may have also been the way you let it down or not having enough scope. Judging scope can be difficult - in most cases of an anchor not setting, it's due to not having enough scope. In many cases, people's estimate of how much rode is out is way off. Minimum... 3 to 5 times your depth (plus distance to pulpit) for regular conditions.

The windlasses that I'm familiar with all have a spot right on top that can be tightened up. UNLESS... where you "pulling" the boat forward with the windlass? If so, that's not recommended in anything but very light conditions (although even that is "technically" not advised). If this was the case, it may have been doing exactly what it was designed for.

 

[hinmo]

Dennis - this was after setting the CQR and the boat bobbing in the wind. The windlass and power was off. I heard it dragging out of the anchor locker and had to loop the chain around one of the cleats to make it fast.

I see no adjustments on the windlass.

I am very disappointed in the CQR....yes, I understand scope. I have no faith in the windlass nor the anchor at this point and am looking for quick alternatives.

thanks

 

[DennisG01]

OK, dragging when at anchor, gotcha. Keep in mind, that while many of use rely on the windlass to hold us, that is not how they are intended to be used (I believe Good windlasses are, though, fyi). You should always cleat the rode and not rely of the windlass to hold you. Now, it could be that the clutch needs to be tightened or it could be that it was doing it's job to protect the windlass from damage. And, certainly, there could be something wrong. But slipping at anchor - especially if it's "bobbing" - it might just be doing what it's supposed to.

Do you have a picture of the windlass? Or a model? How about a manual (download on the web?)?

The anchor may have just gotten tangled in the chain. I wouldn't rush to replace a good anchor.

 

[hinmo]

not too good with pics, but try this. Hope you can blow it up

 

[three4one]

I purchased a spade anchor (S80). It works very well. I have 30' of chain followed by 8-plait rode. The bottom I anchor in is mostly sand.

As for at anchor, the rode should always be snubbed. It is hard to tell from the photo but it looks like a lewmar or similar horizontal windlass. They specify tying off the rode at anchor.

 

[hinmo]

Horizon 500, just looked it up. I think there is a clutched and non-clutch model. I read the instructions and you are right.

That solved. Now, does the spade (and other alternate anchors) fit in the pulpit/roller?

Thanks

 

[DennisG01]

For some reason, your picture isn't showing up for me. But it seems like you have the slippage issue figured out.

Anchor chutes/designs/models change over the years. It's going to depend on what model Grady you have, it's model year, the anchor chute and the design of the anchor vs anchor chute and bow keel. Another consideration is whether it will self launch or not. Most plow anchors should self launch if your current one is doing that. Compare the dimensions of our existing plow (from where it nestles to the bow roller to it's tip) and how much distance you have from the tip to the bow keel. Then look at other brands of anchors and their dimensions.

I won't harp on this, but honestly, you're spending money you don't have to. There's no such thing as a "best" anchor as nothing works "the best" in all bottom conditions. But CQR is a fine anchor and works very well in most conditions. You'd be better off in refining your setting technique than just blindly switching anchors. What ground tackle are you using?

 

[three4one]

Attached is a picture of the spade anchor in the 2018 Marlin bow pulpit. Also, here is a link to the video I used to choose this type anchor.

FYI, I did not take the factory anchor. I negotiated the purchase of the spade as original equipment. The spade fits in my pulpit firmly and launches every time.

That said, as Dennis suggests, you may want to anchor a few more times with the current anchor before making a big purchase like this.

 

[hinmo]

OK - hear you loud and clear. Mine is a nice CQR with swivel. Maybe I can find a place to store a second anchor if I have these problems again.

All - whats the correct technique with a CQR?

PS - I also read on the horizon windlass, that after stopping the release (down) of the rode, you should hit the up sw momentarily....thinking it must change gear direction and maybe lock it in with limited slip...?

 

[three4one]

From the horizon manual: "7. When riding at anchor, secure anchor rope/chain to a suitable independent strong point".
They recommend the short retrieve to stop the rode from creeping out. The instructions are fuzzy but I suggest 7. above takes precedence.

For anchoring, drop the anchor while slowly reversing. This keeps the chain/rode from piling up. When you think enough line is out, cleat off the anchor and either pull it tight by hand or using the boat. That sets the anchor in the bottom. If you don't get good resistance the anchor is not set.

 

[ROBERTH]

I have the Lewmar Delta type anchor and most all boats around this are with anchor on pulpit use the same, especially if you go to the marina where the Grady Dealer is, I think nearly every Grady has this same anchor. That is why I tried it and I have to say, it sticks every time so far, even in 100' with less than normal scope. However, you have to back up once it hits bottom to ensure it digs in, then you are set.

 

[DennisG01]

The CQR is, essentially, just a certain manufacturer's rendition of a "plow anchor" (other brand names such as Delta or Kodiak). The info mentioned above is pretty much spot on and I don't really have anything different to add. But I'll just reinforce that you don't want to just drop the anchor willy-nilly with a pile of chain. When the anchor touches down, start backing down (or if you had gone into the wind, the wind may be doing the job for you). Continue to let out rode till you see/feel it catching... then add a whole bunch more rode to get the scope you need. More scope never hurts.

 

[hinmo]

Thanks for all the feedback. Some further comments-

Its a big boat, I am relying on the Admiral at the bow, so I am seeking an easy, sure, hook-up.

I think I will try to fit a complete danforth and rode somewhere in the boat and use if I have any doubts with the CQR.

Is there such a device for a quick release that I can change anchors on the chain depending on conditions/bottom?

 

[DennisG01]

Don't worry - you'll get used to it. It's only a "big" boat compared to smaller boats! The good thing is the "process" of anchoring is exactly the same whether a small or big boat.

Although it's for slightly different reasons, I have been looking for a QD for my anchor, as well. So far, I haven't found something that (1) won't, over time, need tools to disconnect due to salt and (2) something I feel comfortable with in terms of relying on it to NOT disconnect by itself if it got tripped on something down below. You'd also need to make sure it comes over your rollers easily.

 

[Fishtales]

I have a Delta Fast Set, great for my area.