motor bracket leak - what's the best fix?

[busterblue]

The aluminum / hollow braket is taking on water. Is the fix simply to remove the old caulk and recaulk around the outer edge or do I have to remove the engines / braket and install a gasket?
'89 252 g
Thanks.

 

[Strikezone]

I would check the plug in the bottom of the bracket. That could be the source of the leak. I would also check the inspection plate on top of the bracket. That's a more probable cause for your leak.

 

[BobP]

Find the leak, it could be from one or more of several places.

Then report back.

 

[gw204]

Could be a number of things...

1. Drain plug
2. Inspection plates
3. Bracket/transom seal
4. Engine mounting bolt seals
5. Galvanic corrosion (your bracket has holes in it now)

Pray it's not the last one. The only way to fix that is to replace the bracket...

 

[catch22]

I've had 4 Gray's with brackets. 2 of them leaked. As gw204 mentioned... #1 through #3 did it for me.

Teflon tape on the drain plug.
Seal the inspection plate, (including the O ring) and screws with Life Seal, 3M 4200, etc.
Seal the entire perimiter of the bracket/tansom with same.

 

[Grog]

Unless there are holes in the side from galvanic corrosion, if the motors are original it's most likely the motor bolts.

 

[BobP]

Easy enough to find out where it's leaking from, just take it out of the watar and fill the drive to the top upper most plate via garden hose.

 

[busterblue]

thanks, I should have been more thorough

the leak is from the area where the braket meets the hull. I've replaced the drain plugs, resealed the inspection ports and skim coated the bracket with epoxy and microballoons (for cosmetics - there were no holes just pock marks).

My concern was that I would have to remove the bracket and replace some sort of gasket but I gather i only need to remove the failed silicon caulking clean up the surface and apply new sealant using 4200. That's a relief.

thanks,BB

 

[gw204]

The proper way to reseal the bracket to the transom is to remove the engine(s) and bracket. Clean up both surfaces and then remount the bracket using only 4200 (or 5200 if that's your preference). No gasketing involved.

 

[Capt Bill]

If it's ever been sealed with silicone sealant, which is the wrong sealant below the waterline, then 4200 will not adhere without a thorough cleaning. Clean rags, changed often, using alcohol , then possibly followed by acetone and more clean rags, will need to be done. Never use silicone sealant belpow the waterline. Constant exposure to water will eventually dissolve silicone.

If it's not cleaned properly and thoroughly, it will leak again.

 

[rml2112]

Not to Hijack your thread, But How much work is involved removing the bracket, i am going to do mine this fall to repaint the bracket.

 

[georgemjr]

The job couldn't be easier. Get an engine hoist, unbolt the engine and leave it close to the boat (you don't have to disconnect any connections). Unbolt the bracket and remove. Clean, caulk, and reinstall. I did this on an Offshore I owned and never had a drop of water in it after (9+years).

 

[BobP]

You can leave the motors on the bracket and lift off the whole shebang and let it hang from the hoist while you reseal.
Pep Boys sells a nice hoist cheap if you don't have one, fold-up style too.

De-rigggng and re-rigging is 5x more work than just resealing.

Inspect the drive for stress cracks and deeper poch marks on the inside.

If there are foam blocks in the drive put them back even if a little soaked at bottom (trim off the soaked spots).

Make sure the drive has a functioning anode.

Alum or plastic only for drain plug(s).

Chemical or grind strip off all the bottom paint and use only Trilux or equal below water line.

Follow the advise here if you are capable, and you will avoid spending several grand and instead just about 50 bucks.
For another 75 bucks, you can grind off all the old coating and refinish above the water line.

Good luck.

 

[Grog]

Don't try to remove the bracket with twins still attached. Too much weight is offset and it will cost quite a bit when the whole mess comes crashing down.

Reseal all bolts (engine and hull).

 

[BobP]

You rig to lift both the motors together with a spreader bar from the hoist boom, DON'T RIG TO LIFT THE BRACKET.

The weight is in the motors, not the drive. Block the front of the drive bottom off the ground once the transom bolts are loose.

It will all come up mostlyvertically - if the motors to start are in the running position.

Nothing wrong with taking each motor off either. If there is any concern with my advise or otherwise, take each motor off.

 

[BobP]

By the way, my advise is always limited to competant (advanced) DIYers, no one else.

Someone who doesn't know what they are doing on a job like this can end up permanently handicaped.

 

[Strikezone]

BobP,
Did you just use a regular engine hoist from Pep Boys? I'm going to have to repaint my bracket sometime in the near future and plan on doing it myself.

What paints have everyone used to paint their brackets?

 

[BobP]

The hoist Pep sells is a car motor boom hoist on casters with forked fold up legs, made by Torion (sp?), usually in their sales circular, don't see it this time. Its rated 1.5 tons (or higher) as I recall, don't get the 1 ton model. Has a hand pump hydraulic unit same as a piston jack, And it was about 130 bucks with a mail in rebate when I bought it several years ago.

It's in a heavy box and you bolt it together. Use a shopping cart to get it out of the store.
I think if you google Torion (sp) you will find it.
Well worth the price, more than enough to get the job done.

For yamahas, you need (suggested) also the short adjustable spreader bar, also sold by Pep made by Torion, which is used for car motors to level the load. The bar allows you to properly connect to the Yamaha's 3 points for lifting and also to orient the motor so it doesn't want to twist off/ on to the transom. Not needed for OMC, entirely different way to lift OMCs. The spreader bar is about 30 bucks as I recall. You may need some chain or heavy line and shackles too.

When you get done with this equipment and don't want it anymore or don't have room for it, you can easily ebay it for 50 cents on the dollar cahs and carry, can't imagin shipping costs on this baby!.

Last I used, Petitt off white topside for the drive, near perfect color match and the alum (metal) primer under.

I used to fart around for days with sandpaper until I looked at my angle grinder one day thinking to give it a try, it knocked down in 5 minutes what I spent days sanding by hand, including trying to chip, scrap, or sand down the very tough powdercoat.

If you go this way, use a full face shield and heavy long sleeve shirt, the powercoat was throwing projectiles all over the place, and smelling nasty, at the end of the battle my Dewalt angle grinder with 50 grit was the champion hands down!

I don't want to hear from anyone ragging on the low buck Torion hoist, anyone can spend thousands on fancy more expensive feature full push button hoists, no big deal to be proud of.

This recommedation is not for professional use, only DIYers who are budget minded. UNDERSTAND?

For those who are even more budget minded than I am, you can rent similar equipment at your local tool rental business, I think even Lowes and the Depot rent tools now.

Good luck.

 

[Strikezone]

Thanks for the detailed post. I've seen the Toriun hoists available at other outlets. I've got the powdercoat cracking near the engine mount bolts but otherwise it's in very good condition. I'm thinking of just removing as much as necessary and tapering in with new paint. Any thoughts on this method or should I plan on doing the whole bracket?

 

[BobP]

No need to take it all off, just make sure you take off all that is not adhered to rock solid, looks can be deceiving once you start at it. When it is solid, even chiesels have little effect on it.

You can bevel down the edges to match better on the thickness, and paint over it all to match color better.

Like all coatings , prep is everything, if you don't want to repeat the process every year.

There was little original powercoat left on my 1992 drive prior to my angle grinder discovery. I couldn't be bothered with beveling by grinder with the smoke cloud and flying debris.

I wasn't gentile with the grinder, if you know what I mean. just wanted to get it done!

And you are welcomed, hope it makes you job easier.