Motor well drains

[Tucker]

Gents,
Re: 209 Escape.
Remember seeing a post about these brass scuppers being one piece and mechanically flared on the boat inside and outside. I thought mine were bad because I felt a seam between the tube and the flare. I checked suppliers for these and they show the drain in 3-pieces. A tube and 2-flange pieces. Is this the case, are the drains 3-pieces? I guess I just need to get out the 5200 and be sure to calk the seams real good. Comments?

 

[richie rich]

Tucker, not sure about the 2 vs 3 piece...but if you are worried about water intrusion into your transom, which I recall something about that, if you replace these pieces, or any other through hole, epoxy the exposed core first and let it dry, then install the brass tubes and seal with marine caulk. The epoxy will keep any water from creeping in better than the caulk because it will be absorbed in the core.....the caulk won't...this goes for thu-hull fittings, water intakes, drain plugs, transducer holes etc...the caulk seals a hole but does not penetrate the core....once that seal is broken there is nothing that will stop water intrusion.

 

[Tucker]

I've read that before, makes a lotta sense. Shame boat builders don't do it. Problem is it turns a 1-hr job into a 2-day job waiting for the expoxy to cure. Are there any quick dry epoxies out there??

 

[richie rich]

Tucker, most epoxy manufacturers make several types of hardener, depending on air temperature and how much pot life you want.....they have slow, medium and fast hardeners that harden up in an hour and fully cure by the afternoon......if thats too long, they even make a 5 minute epoxy in a tube...I wouldnt use it for structural repairs but should be OK for waterproofing a thru-hole.......but you can by West System or Mas Epoxy in small kits anywhere marine goods are sold...that job shouldn't take a weekend...just the afternoon