New bow pulpit-windlass install question

tgr23

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My new factory bow pulpit kit will be arriving next week, at which point I will install and start putting on the new windlass. Is this factory pulpit strong enough, as it comes, to support the windlass (Lewmar Profish 700) or does it need reinforcing? If so what has others done to strengthen it?

Thanks,
Travis
 

steveditt

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Just completed an install on a 208 not using a backing plate which is the way it was installed on previous Grady installations . Email Grady they will send detailed instructions but they will recommend installing on the anchor hatch ,you can find this installation by searching internet and will be part of Grady's instructions . I don't plan putting much stress on the pulpit retrieving so the large washers with the kit should work fine . Good luck !
 

ROBERTH

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Agree somewhat. I am sure mine is overkill, especially since you don't really pull anchor or leave it tied up with stress on the pulpit, but would strongly recommend anytime you install any hardware on deck, such as cleats or other items, to use very large and thick washers or a plate of some sort. Also ensure you bed it correctly to prevent any water intrusion. The aluminum is easy to cut and work with in comparison to Stainless Steel.
I was able to go to the local scrap yard and pick up a piece real cheap. I cut it on my radial saw. It can be done with a jig saw, but not as easy. As long as it is tightly clamped down, you can use a carbide blade with skill saw also.

For the install that Grady did, I really do not like installs over the hatch. It does not look good and also complicates access depending upon each approach some folks use to cover or split it into 2 pieces, etc.

The reason they are installing so far aft is to get the rope to drop into the deepest spot and not get hung up. Depending upon where the drop is, and depth below, one might not need to move it so far aft. In my case, I had a good deep drop and used the existing hole that was used for the lift ring. All I had to to was enlarge it for the windlass to fit.

Also, if folks will use the 8 plait rode, it will lay down much better than the 3 strand that is typically used. I was able to put 600' of 8 plait with 30' of 1/4" high test galv. chain and so far, no issue. This is likely overkill. Mostly, 300' is enough for most folks and lessens the rode pile for less issue for piling up. In case anyone decides to go for the 8 plait, the best source I found so far is Seco South. Best price and you custom make what you want.

I am extremely happy with my install and it works great!

I am not sure what the 208 looks like or how big the anchor hold is, so that will make the final decision on how/where to mount.
 

DennisG01

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Are you guys saying that Grady does not use any type of reinforcing when a windlass is installed OEM? I'm really surprised at that. Unless that deck area is already plenty thick. There should really be something there - maybe plywood? If that fiberglass is just the nominal thickness that a deck area would have, I wouldn't feel comfortable not using something else.

You need something to spread the load out. I would think that the weight of an anchor hanging off the bow, with the pounding that a boat takes, could create a good amount of stress. Also, being anchored up in a heavy wind or seas will put a lot of stress in that area, too. Granted, most windlass' aren't intended for actually anchoring, but we all know that not everyone adheres to that rule. Once one area of attachment starts to get compromised, it's going to put an exponentially greater stress on the others.

It's easy enough to glass in a piece of a marine plywood - or even just resin coat the plywood out of the boat and install like that.
 

ROBERTH

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Dennis, you and I are in full agreement. When I looked up under the deck and could see through the green color glass, I saw the balsa. I was guessing it to be about 1/2" thick, so figured it needed full spread support. That is why I used a full baseball diamond shaped piece of 3/8 or 1/4" I forget thick aluminum plate.

This is not a good place to skimp. Can't imagine repairing a torn out bow! :shock:
 

tgr23

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I put in a call to GW to see what they suggested. They were fine with mounting on the pulpit and not the anchor locker lid. The deck is made of fiberglassed 1/2 marine ply. Pulpit is cored with a honeycomb type of core material he seemed to be saying. It was his opinion that no backing plate was needed beyond large fender washers.

I'd probably feel a little more comfortable with more backing if it was easy. Maybe another layer of 3/4 ply, resin coated would do it. I like the idea of the aluminum plate but that might be hard to be find.
 

ROBERTH

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Yeah, it can be if you don't have a scrap yard around. I started out buying my aluminum plate material from Speedy Metals online. Not too bad. Did not want to use Wood, even having to mess with the resin. Aluminum seemed easier.
One of the guys I work with mentioned a local scrap yard about 15 miles away and I went there. Man was it cheap there and lots to choose from. Might be worth looking into. I got some extra for other projects that might turn up.
 

tgr23

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I found a piece of aluminum so I'll be giving that a shot this weekend.

I received my new bow pulpit yesterday, yahoo! I guess GW assumes everyone is an installer and doesn't include any sort of directions. I've read online some pretty good notes on what to do. For those that have done this installation did you receive a lot of extra bolts,nuts and washers? It seems like they just threw in every option one might need for installing any pulpit on any boat. Does that sound right? I spent a few hours last night puzzling through which bolt might go in which place, with which kind of nut and which finishing washer might get used. Any advice is much appreciated.

Thanks!
 

DennisG01

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Cool. Although a 1/2" glassed in piece of ply is "sufficient", you can never go wrong by going beefier. Same goes for the hardware - use the biggest you can. Although, truth be told, 1/4" is common practice for smaller boats and totally fine.
 

tgr23

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Anyone have any photos of the underside of their bow pulpit? One of my questions is what sort of fasteners for the chocks? The kit only came with bolts and nuts but where it looks like the chocks want to be mounted (too in board to bolt through the pulpit) it looks screws would be more appropriate.
Thanks
 

ROBERTH

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The chocks just screw in.
They don't under go extreme stress, so screws of appropriate size are sufficient.
Make sure you chamfer all drilled holes so you don't get spider cracks later.