Where can I find a new refrig (other than from the dealer) for my Sailfish? Apparently, in 01 they did not install a unit that switches over to 110 power when plugged into shore power. Therefore, it runs off the battery which ends up killing that battery about once a year. I like to keep my refrig on all the time.
New Refrig for 2001 282 Sailfish
- Thread starter Fin-isher
- Start date
My 2000 265 Express had the fridge just die on me -
same as yours, did not switch over to 110v -
You can by a replacement fridge from Norcold - my orginal one is not sold any more - if you look carefully at the mounting (at least with mine) it is face mounted and the fridge hangs off unsupported -
The replacement one is face mounted quite a bit less stoutly - and it requires a shelf to built for it to sit on -
I went with the 110v / 12 v switching fridge - and I added an outlet behind the fridge that I plug it into -
The replace ONLY 12v is Norcold DC0040
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... &id=105428
But I went with 12v/110v Norcold DE0040
http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=114252F
I hope this helps
Tim
same as yours, did not switch over to 110v -
You can by a replacement fridge from Norcold - my orginal one is not sold any more - if you look carefully at the mounting (at least with mine) it is face mounted and the fridge hangs off unsupported -
The replacement one is face mounted quite a bit less stoutly - and it requires a shelf to built for it to sit on -
I went with the 110v / 12 v switching fridge - and I added an outlet behind the fridge that I plug it into -
The replace ONLY 12v is Norcold DC0040
http://www.defender.com/product.jsp?pat ... &id=105428
But I went with 12v/110v Norcold DE0040
http://www.go2marine.com/product.do?no=114252F
I hope this helps
Tim
If the original frig is 12 VDC, I suspect the boat has a battery charger that when plugged in via short power takes over - charging the batts as well as carrying the load.
If you have a dual voltage frig it is supposed to automatically draw off DC when AC is off. If both AC and DC is on, then I suspect it biases AC.
In this dual voltgae design, no ship charger is needed, since the frig has it's own rectifier (charger) pack.
If you have a dual voltage frig it is supposed to automatically draw off DC when AC is off. If both AC and DC is on, then I suspect it biases AC.
In this dual voltgae design, no ship charger is needed, since the frig has it's own rectifier (charger) pack.
Thanks guys for the good info. My boat does have a battery charger that I turn on when connected to shore power but a mechanic recently told me that the refrig needs to be separated at the batteries but even if I do that, the refrig would still drain the one battery it would be dedicated too. Right now my batteries are factory installed and have 2 powering one engine and the refrig and electronics (I guess), and one powering the other engine. I apologize if I am displaying my ignorance here but I'm sure it's obvious that I don't know much about this. The mechanic told me I should purchase a new 110/12v refrig, not from him by the way, to avoid the current 12v refrig from draining my battery at the dock.
So the question really is, do I need to switch my 12v out for a new 110/12v or am I good when I connect to shore power as long as the battery charger is switched on? Second, do my batteries need to be re-distributed the way I descibed above?
Thx,
Cal
So the question really is, do I need to switch my 12v out for a new 110/12v or am I good when I connect to shore power as long as the battery charger is switched on? Second, do my batteries need to be re-distributed the way I descibed above?
Thx,
Cal
No reason to apolozige, that's how we all learned at least those who care to admit to.
I'd like to know why the mechanic said WHY not use the ship's charger, unless he is concerned charger will overcharge batts with the charger thinking the batt is still drawing current and it's not fully charged.
Have to talk to charger manuf about it, each charger has it own logic, some may do fine other may keep the voltage up too long.
I'd like to know why the mechanic said WHY not use the ship's charger, unless he is concerned charger will overcharge batts with the charger thinking the batt is still drawing current and it's not fully charged.
Have to talk to charger manuf about it, each charger has it own logic, some may do fine other may keep the voltage up too long.
Capt Bill
GreatGrady Captain
If the battery charger is adequate, it shouldn't allow the batteries to drain when connected to shorepower. If it is not adequate, you could always replace the charger with a higher-current output unit. That will set you back a few hundred dollars, but much less than a new fridge.
Having said that, if the fridge is otherwise in good condition, simply add a 120VAC to 12VDC @ 10AH power supply,(or whatever the current draw of the fridge is, plus at least 25% for margin). Isolate the power supply output from the batteries using a battery isolator.
I would imaging you could do that for probably $100. +/-, and your fridge will automatically switch between 120VAC and 12VDC. A new fridge will set you back close to a grand, not counting the additional fabrication work involved.
Having said that, if the fridge is otherwise in good condition, simply add a 120VAC to 12VDC @ 10AH power supply,(or whatever the current draw of the fridge is, plus at least 25% for margin). Isolate the power supply output from the batteries using a battery isolator.
I would imaging you could do that for probably $100. +/-, and your fridge will automatically switch between 120VAC and 12VDC. A new fridge will set you back close to a grand, not counting the additional fabrication work involved.