Can anyone tell me where each wire goes and what they do that go to the tach. My motor is a 1997 S225TXRV. The warning light is stuck on the oil can and the manual says that means clogged oil filter or blocked line. All filters and check valve have been replaced. Trying to figure out what each of the oil warning light mean and by moving my floats in the oil tank can I make them work the way that they should, So far with both oil tanks unplugged the alarm will sound but the same light is on the tach. Is this a computer problem or something else. Hate to buy a computer and find out that it was some stupid problem.
Oil Pump problems on a Yamaha
- Thread starter Double Eagle
- Start date
Check out this link. Is the yellow oil warning light on? Sounds like you have a wiring issue probably corrosion, check the connectors at the boat mounted oil tank on the harness from tank to gauge. Computer faults are very, very rare. Is the boat tank transfering oil to the engine. Can u hear the oil pump running??
http://www.bwbmag.com/output.cfm?id=942 ... tionid=308
http://www.bwbmag.com/output.cfm?id=942 ... tionid=308
I am not sure about the lights. When my key is turned on there are little triangles that light up above the symbols. The one that stays on is above the oil can, or I see they call yellow. I have never seen colored lights on my tach. I am wondering if each warning light has a separate wire or how do they work. Can seem to clear the warning light that is on. By the owners manual it means clogged filter, that has all been taken care of. Oil pump work fine with the aux. switch. I do know that my motor needs to be running for the oil transfer system to work but just can't seem to reset the warning light and trying to find out why. I have no wiring info in my service manual on the Tach. Trying to check all that I can before I pull it out and put the muffs on to run it!!
The system doesn't know if the filter is clogged, it can only detect low oil in either or both of the tanks.
That symbol means that the secondary tank's oil is low ( that is the tank in the bilge).
If the tank is not low then the most likely cause is a bad oil level sensor on that tank or perhaps a bad connection. The sensor just measures low oil, not different levels. There is a four wire connector to the tank. The Black and the Black/Red wires are the level switch sensors. Looking at the diagram, it appears that the switch closes (makes contact) when the oil is low, so an open connection is not the cause. If the wires were not connected, the alarm would never activate, so that leaves a shorted connection, a stuck sensor float, bad sensor or control module issue.
The sensor is easily tested, remove it from the tank, connect an ohmmeter to the leads, and slide the float up and down. When down the circuit should be closed. When up (past about a third of the distance) the switch should open.
That symbol means that the secondary tank's oil is low ( that is the tank in the bilge).
If the tank is not low then the most likely cause is a bad oil level sensor on that tank or perhaps a bad connection. The sensor just measures low oil, not different levels. There is a four wire connector to the tank. The Black and the Black/Red wires are the level switch sensors. Looking at the diagram, it appears that the switch closes (makes contact) when the oil is low, so an open connection is not the cause. If the wires were not connected, the alarm would never activate, so that leaves a shorted connection, a stuck sensor float, bad sensor or control module issue.
The sensor is easily tested, remove it from the tank, connect an ohmmeter to the leads, and slide the float up and down. When down the circuit should be closed. When up (past about a third of the distance) the switch should open.
I'm looking for the tach wires, what each one does so I can check and make sure the warning lights are working right!! Here are the colors
Gy=Gray
B/W=Black/White
P= Pink
O= Orange
the above wires are in one 4 pin plug and harness
G= Green Single wire
G/R= Green/Red
G/W= Green/White
the above 2 wires are in a 2 pin plug and harness
Y=Yellow
B=Black
L=Blue
B=Black
Does anyone know what these wires go to or do so I can maybe test my tach!!
Gy=Gray
B/W=Black/White
P= Pink
O= Orange
the above wires are in one 4 pin plug and harness
G= Green Single wire
G/R= Green/Red
G/W= Green/White
the above 2 wires are in a 2 pin plug and harness
Y=Yellow
B=Black
L=Blue
B=Black
Does anyone know what these wires go to or do so I can maybe test my tach!!
The plan will be to run the motor and slowly drain the oil from the motor tank and watch to see what warning lights show on the tach. Just trying to prove that the computer is bad or if there is an other problem as to why the transfer pump isn't working. I was hoping to get a idea as to how to check the tach out to make sure all warning lights are working properly. I think the lights change with voltage, but not sure.
As mentioned, you dont have to drain the tank, just pull out the sender and move the float up and down. UP, no pumping, Middle , pump in secondary tank should run, Down, low oil alarm should light ( different alarm than the one you are getting. The motor should switch to low speed mode if running at speed.
For secondary tank, float up, no alarm, float down, low secondary tank alarm ( the one you are seeing now)
For secondary tank, float up, no alarm, float down, low secondary tank alarm ( the one you are seeing now)
Not sure this even relates but I had chronic oil alarm issues and emergency motor shutdowns on my 225 OX66 motors. Finally had to remove both oil tanks and dealer found bunch of sludge in the bottom of both tanks. They cleaned the tanks and the entire oiling system. No issues since then 100+ hours. Not sure what caused the sludge. I bought the boat at 100 hours and have used Yamalube ever since. May have let some seawater get in there once when I filled up in very rough seas.
Freddy063, where did your info come from? Sounds like a lot of trim tab wires to me! I think pink is the warning horn and rpm reduction control. My motor is a 1997. After 96 I am told that the motor will have to be running for the test. I like the idea of removing the floats for the test. I need a second hand to watch the gages!! Need to make sure what my problem is before I buy a computer!
Ok here is the deal. I pulled the boat out of the barn tonight and put the muffs on. Lowered the oil tank on the motor to just above the alarm line. The tank in the boat is near full. Turned on the key and the tach lit up and went to center warning light or I think it is green. Oil pump would not come on even after it ran for a while. Lowered the oil until the alarm sounded but still the same warning lights are on the tach. Hit the aux. toggle switch and filled the oil tank up about a inch. Pulled the float out of the oil tank and moved the floats around and all that would happen was the alarm would sound. Unhooked the wires at the boat oil tank and no change in warning lights. Sounds to me like I have a bad computer!!!$$$$$ Need to check wires from oil tank to computer for a bad one but I'll bet computer$$$
The alarm you described earlier is related to the oil tank under the rear seat, not on the motor. The alarm says that the oil is low in the tank. The float has two wires and the switch closes when the tank is low. Unplug the 4 pin connector and see if the alarm goes away. If not, you either have a shorted wire/connector somewhere between the oil tank and the control module or a bad module.
All wires from sensors go to the computer on the motor and the computer tells the oil pump when to run and when to stop. So if the floats are working and sending the signal to the computer we more than likely are looking at a computer problem. Also coming from the computer are all of the warning lights on the tach. So as I see it all that is left to check is wire from the floats to the computer and double check the float. Then if all checks all that is left is the computer $$$.