old screws in transom filll holes or put back in?

S

sfc2113

GreatGrady Captain
Joined
Dec 29, 2008
Messages
410
Reaction score
0
Points
16
Location
Long Beach Island, NJ
Am working on prepping the area for my trim tab installs , during the paint removal I noticed about a dozen screws in the transom from other owners transducers/cables ect. Maybe even some were put in for transom inspection because they were in weird places. So I took them all out to scrape the paint off.
Luckly non of them are wet or leaking any water.
(maybe should have left them alone)

so, question is..... should I just use 5200 sealant and put the screw back in and repaint them or fill the screw holes with epoxy putty and repaint.
 
I'd say its up to you. Epoxy would be the best and prettiest repair, but obviously more work than just using some 5200 and driving the screws back in. I will be replacing my sounder and transducer, and intend to fill w/ epoxy and re-tap.

Now I would wonder about the 'random' screws you've found. I did some "inspecting" of my transom when I got my boat, but did it from the bilge side, not the outside. That would seem strange. Were they long screws? The transom of my 88 Grady is made of 3 sheets of 3/4' ply. Perhaps long screws were driven in to add re-inforcement to a weak transom? I had a spot near the control gasket where water intruded and rotted the center layer of ply. I dried it out, drove a few 2" screws in the area, and pumped it full of epoxy. Maybe its some cheap fix like that?
 
no these were very small screws, none longer that 1in. the transom is original and I do intend on replacing it when I do a repower sometime in the furture.

I have a bottle of marine-tex epoxy paste and was going to fill the trim tab mount screw holes with it then screw them into the epoxy filled holes with 5200,

I trailer and was just wondering what would be the best fix for the existing ones I took out. I was thinking epoxy and repaint but looking to get in the water in a week or so and not sure if the weather temps will allow a full cure before then. so 5200 the screws back in may be my option. I may put off the tab install till it gets warmer and will fill those holes then.
 
I have done similar repairs in the past by using a harwood dowel the same diameter as the screws that were removed. Prepare an epoxy solution soak the dowel in epoxy and drive it into the hole just past flush with the gelcoat and them fill it with Marine-Tek . Sand and polish and the repair is almost invisible.
 
if you use the epoxy paste, make sure you can fully fill the holes. Not just a coat over the holes, but to actually fill them.

5200 (non fast cure) will take a week to cure in 60 degree weather. Fast cure takes 24-36 hours.

You can use West Systems 205 fast hardener in cold temps, so that's what yo'd want to use for epoxy work in cool temps.

Personally I'd use West systems epoxy and 205 fast hardener and get a epoxy syringe and inject it into each hole. Thicken it slightly w/ some cabosil. Tape around each hole b/c you'll likely get some running. Then the next day, use your epoxy paste (or the same West but thickened well w/ cabosil) to fill the slight indentation left and you just have some sanding to do after that cures.
 
I'm with Coco. I take an appropriate size dowel, soak it with epoxy, poke it into the hole all the way, pull it out a hair and nip it with side cutter nippers, and then re-poke the dowel so the dowell is recessed slightly. Then, you can take a dab of thickened epoxy over the dowell end, and apply a piece of clear plastic tape to hold the epoxy in place. Not much sanding if any if you are going to paint over it. If you gel coat it, I use a dremel with barrel sanding bit to slightly recess the epoxy when it is set up, then dab gel coat patch over the top of that. Sand when that is set up.

Edit: To set up the epoxy in cooler weather, I use a halogen shop light to keep the repair site warm.
 
Epoxy, not 5200.......the dowel method as mentioned is best....use neat epoxy to wet it out not a thick paste like marine tex
 
If it was just a small screw hole I would have probably filled with Marine-Tex. I think the wooden dowel for larger holes is a great idea. With the dowel you just need to make sure that it's waterproof.
 
Thanks all for your input , these holes are not big enough for dowels, these screws wer 1/8-1/4 and maybe 1/2 to 3/4 in deep. But I can see how the epoxy paste may not fill the holes as you have to push it in and an air buble could get trapped in there. Think I will go with the syringe and the fast hardener and cabosil. Sounds like the right way to do it.
 
sfc2113 said:
Thanks all for your input , these holes are not big enough for dowels, these screws wer 1/8-1/4 and maybe 1/2 to 3/4 in deep. But I can see how the epoxy paste may not fill the holes as you have to push it in and an air buble could get trapped in there. Think I will go with the syringe and the fast hardener and cabosil. Sounds like the right way to do it.
Click to expand...
Let us know how effective sucking thickened fast setting epoxy into a 1/8" or 1/16" syringe is, OK?
 
at this time in the NE...fast is a good choice..and it should be about 55-60 outside......I wouldn't go too thick....just enough body to keep it in there...you want the wood to absorb the resin to fully seal it......the syringe method is perfect for something like this...you'll have a tough time smushing it in with an applicator with that small diameter.
 
The screws will be fine as long as the hole still offers some bite to the threads. You can squeeze some 5200 into the holes, mash it around with a toothpick or a small wire and then coat the screw threads with 5200 prior to screwing them in. I usually just push the screw into the tube of 5200 to coat it. It is important that the thread and the underside of the screw head have a full covering of 5200. If not, there is a chance of rust. Yes, the screws are stainless but if stainless gets wets but has no exposure to air, it can rust, so let the 5200 squeeze out when you tighten ( no need to muscle them) the screws and gently wipe the excess.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.