Replacing Console Switches

CLEMDVA

New Member
Joined
Aug 31, 2013
Messages
2
Reaction score
0
Points
0
Replacing console switches: I am posting this as a solved problem because others surely have the same issue. My model 180 from the mid 2000s has been exposed to Chesapeake Bay since I bought it. Two of the six rocker switches on the panel were iffy so I figured why not replace them all.

These switches are Carling brand switches (V Series Contura) but the generic versions on the shelf at West Marine and Boater's Warehouse (at least my local ones) won't do the job. The switches G-W used have an extra "pin out" at the top of the switch for power to the backlight provided by the nav switch. This is labelled position 7 and position 8 (8 is the extra one) by Carling.

You can buy either the switch body with a faceplate (actuator) or separately, depending on the source. I bought them separately so the faceplates are all labelled in the same style. There is a rubber gasket around the switch that may or may not be included in the purchase. I bought a faceplate remover tool for a couple of bucks since I knew I would screw up at least one of them (yup).

G-W did not put these in a switch housing -- they just snap in and out of the console mount.

These switches are available from several online sources, including New Wire Marine, for way less money than my G-W dealer wanted. I spent about $100 and have an all-new panel.

Best wishes.
CLEMDVA