Replacing Teak Trim with Aluminum or automotive trim

Replace with what

  • Plain Aluminum Bar

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Seam Binder aluminum pre-drilled

    Votes: 0 0.0%
  • Teak Again

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Total voters
    3

DoctorOctopus

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I have decided my teak has had a few sanding jobs too many, as well as a number of cracked pieces. I have a 1986 Seafarer 228. Rather than re-teak I was considering other options. I know newer Grady's have an adhesive flexible trim that is both hard to source and incredibly expensive. I was considering redoing the trim with Starboard, but am concerned that the expansion from heat/cold would be an issue. I am in NY and the boat will go from -5 to105 which looks like it could expand the teak almost a centimeter over the 82" of the teak on the aft deck around the Gunwales. Slot cutting screw holes and then a washer I guess would be the answer. I've gone from loving re-doing my teak, to feeling it is a quite outdated look and not necessary on what is my good old fishing boat. It reminds me of the 1970's where we felt the need to wood panel our car, our television, and our stereo. Don't get me started on the faux-wood laminate bulkhead! I'm not that concerned about being a preservationist about the Grady look and OEM parts.

I was considering aluminum (aluminum does not expand with temperature), such as is available or 1.5" aluminum edging, seam- binder or flat-bar. It would cost about $30 in materials to do most of the long trim this way. Does anybody have an opinion on this?

I also considered automotive trim, but am not sure it would hold up to salt (although this seems to be exactly what the Grady product is) or vinyl insert trim used for RVs/rubrails. It has the advantage of coming in some cool colors , though not as long term or cheap a solution as aluminum. If it's a mistake to do, well, it is a $30 mistake. The screws cost more than the aluminum.

your opinions are welcome, but the teak is going (if you want it happy to give it away). it is 24 feet of the 1.5" wide 1/4" thick teak trim strips. Am I nuts? :)

1) Automotive Trim (adhesive) 1.5" : https://www.brandsport.com/variouscolors7.html. about $4 a foot
2) Aluminum Flat Bar: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...ERCH=REC-_-rv_nav_plp_rr-_-NA-_-204273937-_-N. about $1.25 a foot
3) Aluminum seam-binder: http://mdbuildingproducts.com/product/seam-binder-extra-wide-smooth-1-34-x-36/. less than a dollar a foot.
4) Aluminum edging: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Alexand...lain-Edging-Moulding-AT016-AM096C03/205576703 also about $1.25 a foot (this particular one is anodized with an outdoor mirror finish, but I'd prefer plain aluminum for maintenance)


Grady-White
1986 228 Seafarer
2015 Yamaha 225 4 stroke
Rockaway Beach, NY
 

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ozona19

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I have decided my teak has had a few sanding jobs too many, as well as a number of cracked pieces. I have a 1986 Seafarer 228. Rather than re-teak I was considering other options. I know newer Grady's have an adhesive flexible trim that is both hard to source and incredibly expensive. I was considering redoing the trim with Starboard, but am concerned that the expansion from heat/cold would be an issue. I am in NY and the boat will go from -5 to105 which looks like it could expand the teak almost a centimeter over the 82" of the teak on the aft deck around the Gunwales. Slot cutting screw holes and then a washer I guess would be the answer. I've gone from loving re-doing my teak, to feeling it is a quite outdated look and not necessary on what is my good old fishing boat. It reminds me of the 1970's where we felt the need to wood panel our car, our television, and our stereo. Don't get me started on the faux-wood laminate bulkhead! I'm not that concerned about being a preservationist about the Grady look and OEM parts.

I was considering aluminum (aluminum does not expand with temperature), such as is available or 1.5" aluminum edging, seam- binder or flat-bar. It would cost about $30 in materials to do most of the long trim this way. Does anybody have an opinion on this?

I also considered automotive trim, but am not sure it would hold up to salt (although this seems to be exactly what the Grady product is) or vinyl insert trim used for RVs/rubrails. It has the advantage of coming in some cool colors , though not as long term or cheap a solution as aluminum. If it's a mistake to do, well, it is a $30 mistake. The screws cost more than the aluminum.

your opinions are welcome, but the teak is going (if you want it happy to give it away). it is 24 feet of the 1.5" wide 1/4" thick teak trim strips. Am I nuts? :)

1) Automotive Trim (adhesive) 1.5" : https://www.brandsport.com/variouscolors7.html. about $4 a foot
2) Aluminum Flat Bar: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbil...ERCH=REC-_-rv_nav_plp_rr-_-NA-_-204273937-_-N. about $1.25 a foot
3) Aluminum seam-binder: http://mdbuildingproducts.com/product/seam-binder-extra-wide-smooth-1-34-x-36/. less than a dollar a foot.
4) Aluminum edging: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Alexand...lain-Edging-Moulding-AT016-AM096C03/205576703 also about $1.25 a foot (this particular one is anodized with an outdoor mirror finish, but I'd prefer plain aluminum for maintenance)


Grady-White
1986 228 Seafarer
2015 Yamaha 225 4 stroke
Rockaway Beach, NY

Hi Doc Oc,

I have a 1989 Offshore 242G. I replaced the teak about 7 years ago. Have owned the boat for 18 years and like you, grew tired of redoing the teak. I used white Corian. After 7 years it still looks like the day I put it in. I used 1/2" sheet for the rod holders and the sidewall rails. You can use 1/4" for the trim. I am in florida so we don't have the low temperatures but I don't think it will affect the Corian. I am going to use 1/4" pvc sheet for the good old faux-wood laminate on the bulkhead. (Just bought the sheet yesterday)
Good Luck

Jeff Fraser
1989 Offshore 242G
1999 Yamaha S225TXRX
OX66 Fuel Injected Salt water series
Ozona, Florida
 

DoctorOctopus

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that Faux Wood Laminate bulkhead has to be the ugliest 1970s looking thing in the world. From the way it peels it should be called de-laminate.
are you placing a layer over it or replacing the marine plywood for the bulkhead?

Mines rotted at the. bottom so I might replace with Coosa board or starboard but if PVC can survive the sun in Florida I'm sure it will do well in NYC

Hi Doc Oc,
I am going to use 1/4" pvc sheet for the good old faux-wood laminate on the bulkhead. (Just bought the sheet yesterday)
Good Luck

Jeff Fraser
1989 Offshore 242G
1999 Yamaha S225TXRX
OX66 Fuel Injected Salt water series
Ozona, Florida
 

ozona19

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HI Doc
The front bulkhead does not get much sun as I have a hard top. I will laminate over my fake wood. I am attaching a picture of the corian on my boat. I am also thinking about replacing the teak trim around the bulkhead as it is really deteriorating. I am going to use strips from the 2' X 4" pvc panels that I bought for the bulkhead. Should be enough left over after laminating. I am also attaching a picture of the product I am talking about. It has a label on it. The program says the file of the photo of the corian rod holder is to big. It let me upload the pvc pic. odd that there is that much difference. Taken from same Iphone.

Have a great one.
JeffIMG_0089.JPGIMG_0089.JPG
 

DoctorOctopus

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I am doing the trim in anodized aluminum seam-binder or edge binder. Anodized will hold up for quite a while to the salt and is necessary (that or powder coating which is not worth the time and effort).

Alexandria Moulding
1/4 in. x 1-9/16 in. x 96 in. Metal Mira Lustre Plain Edging Moulding (Home Depot $12 free delivery)

they can be purchased predrilled and countersunk every 6". I chose undrilled.
I highly recommend
  • I will post a photo afterwards.
 

ozona19

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Sounds good. Looking forward to the pictures. I will post the PVC sheet trim when done. Good comparison. Neither is overly expensive. I will follow your lead (change mine out for aluminum) if I like your better.

Jeff Fraser
1989 Offshore 242G
1999 Yamaha S225TXRX
OX66 Fuel Injected Salt water series
Ozona, Florida
 

DoctorOctopus

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I look forward to seeing how yours turns out.
I’ll have to figure out how to stabilize the rotten bottom edge first for mine


I am going to use strips from the 2' X 4" pvc panels that I bought for the bulkhead. Should be enough left over after laminating. I
 

Summertop511

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Wow looks good. Makes the teal pop. If you were to take teak off I’d say 1/4” seafoam color starboard.
 

HookUp

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Hi Doc Oc,

I have a 1989 Offshore 242G. I replaced the teak about 7 years ago. Have owned the boat for 18 years and like you, grew tired of redoing the teak. I used white Corian. After 7 years it still looks like the day I put it in. I used 1/2" sheet for the rod holders and the sidewall rails. You can use 1/4" for the trim. I am in florida so we don't have the low temperatures but I don't think it will affect the Corian. I am going to use 1/4" pvc sheet for the good old faux-wood laminate on the bulkhead. (Just bought the sheet yesterday)
Good Luck

Jeff Fraser
1989 Offshore 242G
1999 Yamaha S225TXRX
OX66 Fuel Injected Salt water series
Ozona, Florida

Do not use 1/4 for the trim in the cockpit. I did it and any length over 2 ft will bow in the heat even with extra screws (which look crappy)
I'm am going to re-do it in 1/2" Starboard.
The door frame and small pieces of trim in the helm area of my 208 are going to stay teak
 

Summertop511

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Do not use 1/4 for the trim in the cockpit. I did it and any length over 2 ft will bow in the heat even with extra screws (which look crappy)
I'm am going to re-do it in 1/2" Starboard.
The door frame and small pieces of trim in the helm area of my 208 are going to stay teak
Yikes don’t do 1/4” then lol
 

rdifab

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T
HI Doc
The front bulkhead does not get much sun as I have a hard top. I will laminate over my fake wood. I am attaching a picture of the corian on my boat. I am also thinking about replacing the teak trim around the bulkhead as it is really deteriorating. I am going to use strips from the 2' X 4" pvc panels that I bought for the bulkhead. Should be enough left over after laminating. I am also attaching a picture of the product I am talking about. It has a label on it. The program says the file of the photo of the corian rod holder is to big. It let me upload the pvc pic. odd that there is that much difference. Taken from same Iphone.

Have a great one.
JeffView attachment 13739View attachment 13739
that stuff expands like crazy FYI
 

DoctorOctopus

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nice photos. I will probably pick something UV resistant and non-heat expanding although this is a good choice. maybe I'll do thin over it acrylic