Separating the Hull?

[deerslayer303]

Hello Everyone!

I have been lurking your site for a few days now gathering info. I bought what I'm quite sure is a 1978 212 Chesapeake. I really wasn't shopping for a boat of this size but for the price I couldn't pass it up (800). The boat looked to be in good shape to me it had been sitting for 4 years covered outside. It has a 2005 Continental Galv. tandem axel trailer with compression brakes. Anyway I went thru the engine and outdrive and got it running, it runs very good and the outdrive is in fine shape. Well I have discovered the transom is rotted and so it the stringer for the front engine mount. So I have already pulled the engine and drive and now I'm building a cradle to separate the hull. So after I remove the rubber rub strip all the way around and all the screws will this thing lift off or is it attached with other hardware somewhere else.
My goal is to replace the transom, check and or replace all stringers, and check and or replace the fuel tank. Any help here is greatly appreciated.
Shawn

 

[Grog]

Dude!!! Not many people want to separate the cap and the hull. Maybe wait until Tuesday and call GW on that one.

 

[deerslayer303]

I kinda have to

In order to make this boat right. I must take the cap off to access the transom and check and or replace the stringers, I have to seperate the cap from the hull. It doesn't look that bad of a job I'm just wondering what else is holding it together other than the screws that run through the rub rail and through the cap into the hull.

 

[seasick]

I would think that the upper hull is glued to the bottom. At a minumum it has to be caulked. I am interested in what you find out and also suggest that you give Grady a call

 

[gradyfish22]

Back in those days the hull was probably caulked or used a light bonding agent...if you were talking a new boat I'd say run away fast and good luck getting them apart. You are going to have a LOT of fasteners to remove, should be a screw every inch or so along the rub rail to connect the hull and deck. When you replace it after your done I would recommend a good bonding agent, not 5200, something stronger. Plexus would be my recommendation for a bond, very excelelnt bonding agent for hull to decks that is used by higher end builders and it lasts and holds better then most stuff out there. Find someone who has fiberglass repair experience and have them help you and teahc you, if you pay someone your talking about a very expensive job, far more then you would think. The transom alone would cost likely $2000+, the stringers will be more. My advice, if your going through this much work, have the old stringers cut out, sand down the inside of the hull flat and coat it with resin, sand it again flat. Then have new foam stringers made to match the originals and then lay about 4 layers of glass over the top. Use various weave patterns and check with a good fiberglass guy to make sure the glass you buy will suit your job, and also make sure your laying it the right direction to get the strength from it for the job your performing. It is hard to repair a stringer and do it right, the best way is replace them all if your going to dig this deep into the job. This is going to be a couple of grand to do yourself, there is no cheap quick fix, make sure this project is worth it for you if your going to take it on and invest this kind of cash and time. If you do, plan to keep the boat a while, if this seems like more then you were expecting, look for a new boat with less issues, this is not a quick fix and can get somewhat involved. Best of luck!!!...seems like it would be a very fun project if you have the time and funds to support it.

 

[richie rich]

wow...this is a big job....you don't want to seperate the hull...its probably glued with resin and screwed all the way around...you're better off just cutting the deck and rebuilding it that way...but its still a big job....you can replace the transom from the outside or the inside....just leave 3-4 inches of original glass to bond to and use epoxy as polyester resin is a good building adhesive, but not a good bonding adhesive as this will be a secondary bond and epoxy is excellent in this area and its fully waterproof. As far as the stringers...Grady told me to stick with the original design....glassed marine plywood with a 3/8-1/2 inch gap from off the hull which is bedded in resin...don't let the wood sit directly on the hull bottom or you'll get a hard spot. I asked them about using the new structural foam but they steered me clear of it.....I guess its great for a new build but the old design is built for wood...your call,

check out a website called boatbuildercentral.com They sell everything you'll need and they have a great repair forum showing stringer, transom and deck repair including a complete rebuild of an Aquasport...it will be just up your alley with this project

 

[deerslayer303]

I appreciate all the suggestions, but I like this old boat so much I want to press forward, I don't see any of them like it cruisin around. This boat is mostly going to be used mostly as a lake Stripper and Fun boat, I will call grady white and see what they say. But the way I figure it, any boat that I can possibly afford (paying cash for) (up to 10K is my max.. maybe) will be old and likely have problems, so I might as well fix this one then I will know what I have. I have thought alot about using sea cast for the stringers, I will take pics and post some so you guys can see just how much of a pain in the rear this is going to be.

 

[BobP]

My understanding, if you did this, you may not be able to get the liner/cap back on the when the boat distorts aftre you pull it off..

Aftre all, there is no mold the hull is sitting in.

Go to classicmako.com and post your question there, I bet they will say the same.

Of course it would be easier to remove the liner, but things are never easy with boats! You can get to the stringers by cutting the liner out, and cap at rear for transoms, all teh while the remaining cap keeps the hull sides secure.

 

[timo14]

I think bobp is right, you'll need to build some type of cradle to keep the hull from distorting. I really have no idea about anything else... I've just seen other makes of boats apart and the hull has always been in a cradle.

I'm very interested in your project... please post photos as you get going.

Is a 470 Mercruiser a big block? What kind of HP will that thing put out... I can only assume its in the 350 hp range. Was that a standard engine for that hull? Seems way big... but I'm a fan of as much HP as a hull can handle.

Good luck with the project!

 

[Grog]

Is a 470 Mercruiser a big block? What kind of HP will that thing put out... I can only assume its in the 350 hp range. Was that a standard engine for that hull? Seems way big... but I'm a fan of as much HP as a hull can handle.

It sound like it but it's a 4 cyl. with 170 HP.

 

[deerslayer303]

I got some work done over the past few days, I have started a thread over at classic mako, I will move the thread over here too when I get back to my computer at home. The Computers here at work have everything blocked, luckily I can still get to my boat forums, LOL. It would be a bad day without my BOAT FORUMS.

Here is a link to the thread.


http://www.classicmako.com/forum/topic. ... 25&#185806