Shakedown cruise and some questions.....

[Rustygaff]

On Memorial Day, we took the GW out on our first shakedown cruise. We trailered it to a local ramp in Westerly, RI. (The boat came with a 8200# Load-Rite roller trailer.) With our son at the helm while I backed it in, off-loading was easy.
First stop was the gas dock since the Command link Plus gauge only read 35 gals. in the tank. Put in 100 gallons (filled it) but noticed the gauge did not reflect the additional fuel so we re-set it and it then read 135 gallons available. Is the only way to get an accurate fuel level reading with the CLP system is to top off the tank and re-set? What if I only put in 50 gallons?

After fueling up off to Mystic we went. The boat ran flawlessly. I was impressed with the ride even though we did not encounter any rough water. Tied up in Mystic for a bit and visited some friends. After a late lunch, we headed back to the ramp. Everything went smoothly until it was time to put the GW back on that horrid roller trailer. I did a bit of reading before venturing out. Most of what I have read from experienced roller trailer guys is to only dunk the rear set of rollers into the drink and winch the boat up and it will align straight. Well, this boat was having none of that. Simply too heavy to winch. After fiddling for about an hour at different trailer depths, we managed to get the boat to lay down straight while dealing with the wind and river current. Outside of converting to a bunk trailer there must be a better way. :bang After the boat was trailered, I noticed we lost the skeg anode. No visible prop damage though.

 

[L.R.]

I have always had Roller Trailers.That being said,I've always had an Electric Winch! If the Trailer is set-up properly for the Hull,Loading should be a Breeze.The Boat should center itself on the Rollers.NO way I'm Hand Winching my Boat,That's enough to make ya' get rid of a Roller Trailer in itself!

 

[journeyman]

A lot depends on conditions (wind / current) and the ramp itself (steep / medium grade). You will need to develop your technique accordingly.

Here's what I did under various circumstances;

No wind or current, average grade ramp - submerge trailer so rear wheels just under water, slowly nose the bow onto the trailer centered on the winch stanchion. let the boat settle into / onto the rollers and right itself then slowly power up to move the boat. If the boat feels like its cradled properly (you will get the feel for that) increase power to bring the bow right to the stop. You may have to sink the trailer a little more now but I didn't. Have the winch person hook the safety chain and then the winch strap. Pull the boat out and finish winching in the parking lot (easier since the boat is now on level ground.

Same ramp but with wind and or current - If you have a choice, let the stronger of the two be pushing you up against the dock. Submerge the trailer as stated above but close to the dock (wheels about a foot from the dock). Tie a bow line and, from the dock, walk the boat into / onto the rollers, pushing the bow out as you near the rollers so it goes in centered. Now hand the bow line to a helper to hold and walk back to push the stern away from the dock, hop in and slowly power up to move boat. If it "feels" right, continue. If it doesn't, reverse a little and the boat should settle evenly. Power on as above.
If you have no choice and the wind / current is pushing you off the dock, set trailer close as above and use a bow line with a stern line to walk the boat to the trailer. holding both to position boat. After you get the bow started, have your helper hold the stern line while you hop in and power on to the trailer.

A very steep ramp is more difficult as the rear rollers will not grab the boat unless the trailer is just barely "wet". In this case I would submerge the rear rollers and start the boat onto the rollers using a bow line. Have someone on a stern line if the wind/ current is pushing you off the dock. Slowly back the trailer deeper and guide with the bow line until it settles and you can connect the winch strap. Winch as you back it deeper and can connect the chain. Pull it out and finish on level ground.

My wife and I routinely trailered our 208 and then our 258 bt ourselves and never had issues after we learned. It takes practice but you'll get it, no sweat.

 

[Rustygaff]

Thanks for the tips. When we sea trialed the boat on the purchase date, we went out with the owner of the boat yard who set up the trial. When he trailered the boat, he powered up almost to the bow stop as Journeyman describes. Maybe I will try that method the next time out. Anything is better than our initial experience.

 

[Bayhouse]

.... I noticed we lost the skeg anode. No visible prop damage though.

Lost both of mine this year and one was installed by a tech. Read that it's a pretty common problem, use some removable lock-tite when you install the new one. If you're trailering, you really don't even need to replace it....

 

[seasick]

.... I noticed we lost the skeg anode. No visible prop damage though.

Lost both of mine this year and one was installed by a tech. Read that it's a pretty common problem, use some removable lock-tite when you install the new one. If you're trailering, you really don't even need to replace it....

Not a good idea for two reasons: The anode is what the galvanic activity eats up and that goes on all the time. If no anode, then in general aluminum parts are next in line and that is often the lower unit.
Secondly, on a single boat, the anode is often also a trim tab and not having one or having it misadjusted will cause hard turning to one side and perhaps steering in general to one side.

 

[Rustygaff]

Since I do not have a previous orientation point to install the new skeg anode, should I mount it straight or a click or 2 to the starboard side to counter the prop torque? I only want to do this once with some Locktite.

 

[DennisG01]

A good roller trailer (not a cheapie with minimal rollers) should load (center the boat) almost as easy as a bunk. A couple other suggestions to make it easier:

-- First, double check - you might have a dual speed winch. Meaning, there are two different gears that you can engage to make winching either faster or easier. You could always replace your existing winch with one of these as they would be less expensive than a power winch. But a power winch is awful nice... it's almost like cheating!

-- If you're not comfortable driving it all the way onto the trailer under power, keep some of the power on while the other person winches in. Sort of like a poor man's power winch. Of course, though, this is not recommended (and sometimes you can even get fined) if you're on a gravel ramp, or the cement is short as it can create mounds/humps of gravel that other boaters will run into or holes that other trailers will drop into.

-- You can also winch it on, then back the trailer in a little further, then winch, then back it in.

-- If you're having issues with the aft end swinging away because you're in too deep - but don't want to winch, back in further, winch, etc - you can add guide poles. They'll also help in situations with wind and current.

 

[seasick]

Since I do not have a previous orientation point to install the new skeg anode, should I mount it straight or a click or 2 to the starboard side to counter the prop torque? I only want to do this once with some Locktite.

Start with 1 1/2 towards starboard.
Unfortunately it may take some trial and error to get the correct setting and in addition, any setting is optimal at one speed only so it is a compromise. Do your test runs at typical cruise speeds
You will eventually need to replace the anode so use the semi-permanent version of the Locktite.

 

[GOA]

On Memorial Day, we took the GW out on our first shakedown cruise. We trailered it to a local ramp in Westerly, RI. (The boat came with a 8200# Load-Rite roller trailer.) With our son at the helm while I backed it in, off-loading was easy.
First stop was the gas dock since the Command link Plus gauge only read 35 gals. in the tank. Put in 100 gallons (filled it) but noticed the gauge did not reflect the additional fuel so we re-set it and it then read 135 gallons available. Is the only way to get an accurate fuel level reading with the CLP system is to top off the tank and re-set? What if I only put in 50 gallons?

After fueling up off to Mystic we went. The boat ran flawlessly. I was impressed with the ride even though we did not encounter any rough water. Tied up in Mystic for a bit and visited some friends. After a late lunch, we headed back to the ramp. Everything went smoothly until it was time to put the GW back on that horrid roller trailer. I did a bit of reading before venturing out. Most of what I have read from experienced roller trailer guys is to only dunk the rear set of rollers into the drink and winch the boat up and it will align straight. Well, this boat was having none of that. Simply too heavy to winch. After fiddling for about an hour at different trailer depths, we managed to get the boat to lay down straight while dealing with the wind and river current. Outside of converting to a bunk trailer there must be a better way. :bang After the boat was trailered, I noticed we lost the skeg anode. No visible prop damage though.

Where to start???
The easiest way to load:
1-add a set of PVC loading guides to your trailer...not pretty, but your boat will come up straight each and every time!!!
2-submerge the trailer to just slightly over the top of the trailer fenders
Downside...after flushing your brakes with fresh water after every use...you will still need to replace them every four years. See my thread on Trailer Brake Maintenance on this site
That's the good, the bad and the ugly from a guy that has been doing it for a LONG TIME!!!

GOA :wink:

 

[Rustygaff]

Thanks for the advise. I will try the trailer guides. When the brakes do eventually go, I will look into the Kodiak stainless. Pricey, but may be worth the extra cost.