As I have stated in other threads, I am having massive problems with my Tie-Down calipers. Since we are just now coming into trophy striper season in the Chesapeake, I am NOT wasting a good fishing day to replace brakes. I can always do that in the winter during layup. So, for the short run, I am removing my Calipers and lashing them to the axle..My quesiton is how to keep the pistons on the caplipers to keep from coming all the way out when the brakes are applied? How have you guys done it?? Thanks, Hot Ajax
Strapping Frozen Calipers to Axle - Question
- Thread starter hotajax
- Start date
Is disabling the brakes on the trailer commonly done by you trailer boat folks?
If so, you should have to fly a special "I'm a hazard on the road - stay clear" banner to warn others... :doh
Brian
If so, you should have to fly a special "I'm a hazard on the road - stay clear" banner to warn others... :doh
Brian
wrxhoon
Well-Known Member
ocnslr said:
I agree , here in Australia you have to have brakes that work on at least one axle on trailers with ATM over 750 KG ( 1650 lbs) and up to 2000 kg (4400 lbs) anything over 2000 kg you need brakes on all wheels , a breakaway system that will hold the brakes on for 15 minutes and a controller in the cab that will operate the trailer brakes only .
Many times you get pulled over by RTA they weigh the trailer/boat combo and check it all out making sure everything works, lights , brakes etc..
All trailers over 750 atm must get inspected every year .
ocnslr said:
No, only in the case of a roadside emergency. I carry a cap which fits over the end of the threaded fitting on the hydraulic brake line. In an emergency, I can disconnect the brake line to the offending caliper without draining the system. What happens next depends upon what's going on, but if a dragging caliper is heating up the hub and bearings to the danger point, the caliper has to come off.
Guys, I am only going a mile and a half at the most, on roads with speed limits of 25 mph. Don't think any boats are going to be flying through any houses at 5 am.
Pez Vela said:
Can you describe this cap or where you got it? Thanks, seems like the most reasonable short-run fix until I can actually replace the brakes during lay-up.
A local boat trailer shop put it together for me. It consists of a "line union" threaded female coupler, into one end of which is screwed a threaded male plug. Kinda like the parts shown here. http://www.discounthydraulichose.com/In ... _s/241.htm
About the easiest thing is to cut a piece of wood to fit in the caliper between the brake pads and secure it so it won't fall out. You could also just drill thru the coupler and put in a pin to stop the coupler from compressing and activating the master cylnder.
I was going to write the same thing, cut pieces of scrap plywood and wedge them in there between pads with some nylon wire tys wrapped around the whole thing to keep wood in place.
Problem seems solved for now. I took each caliper off, and sprayed all around the piston with AeroKroil. Then I used a C-Clamp to nudge the pistons back in a little, just to move it. Also lubed the caliper mounting bolts with tacky red high-pressure grease (which doesn't wash away). Had no problems with heating of the hubs, even after a 5-mile test drive. After each dunking of the boat in salt water, sprayed the brakes with AeroKroil. BTW, I love this stuff. I put a few dabs behind each ear whenever I go out for the evening.
hotajax said:
X2
Kroil is great stuff! As long as I don't get impatient and give it time to work, it has come thru for me every time.
Kroil is one of the best friends a salt water boater can have. It's too bad for them that they don't advertise it more, and make it more readily available where you could walk in on a Saturday afternoon and buy some in a store. If you want to try it, you can get a free sample at www.kanolabs.com. Just pay for shipping. And I'm not a distributor or involved with the company in any way other than an end-user.