My 98 Adventure 208 had a thru-hull leak when I bought it. I reseated 1 and then took it for a complete refit and reseat of all thru-hull in 2015. It is leaking again. I am going to try again myself, Any suggestions on how to do the reseats would be greatly appreciated.
Thru-hull leak 98 Adventure 208
- Thread starter Cgbum
- Start date
After removing the thru hull, check the condition of the inside edge of the hole to make sure it is not mush.
If it is you need to get the rot out and re-epoxy the coring around the hole. For resealling the cleaned out voids, use epoxy thickened with a filler made to the consistency of thick peanut butter If it is decent, you should apply a coat of thin epoxy to seal up the inside edge. You want the finished, sealed hole to be a tad wider than the thru hull fitting. Let the epoxy cure
If you cut and fit masking tape around the edge of the fitting, removing the squeeze out will be a lot easier. To make the masking tape pattern, apply the tape around the hole without the fitting installed and make sure the tape covers an area wider than the flange. Insert the fitting temporarily and draw a line around the fitting's edge onto the masking tape.Using a razor, cut along the line and peel off the tape that would be under the fitting's flange. Now you will have masking tape around the fitting to catch the squeeze out.
To install the thru hull, apply a liberal coating of 4200 to the flange and the first inch or so of the fitting under the flange. Normally you would use 5200 but since you are having issues and may need to remove it later, use the 4200.
Here is the important part for installation: Apply a bit of 4200 on the flange of the nut and screw the nut on snuggly but not super tight. You want the 4200 to squeeze out on both sides but you don't want to squeeze out all the adhesive.
Let the fitting sit for a day or so and then retighten a bit tighter. By now the 4200 has set up and partially cured and will not completely squeeze out.
Good luck
If it is you need to get the rot out and re-epoxy the coring around the hole. For resealling the cleaned out voids, use epoxy thickened with a filler made to the consistency of thick peanut butter If it is decent, you should apply a coat of thin epoxy to seal up the inside edge. You want the finished, sealed hole to be a tad wider than the thru hull fitting. Let the epoxy cure
If you cut and fit masking tape around the edge of the fitting, removing the squeeze out will be a lot easier. To make the masking tape pattern, apply the tape around the hole without the fitting installed and make sure the tape covers an area wider than the flange. Insert the fitting temporarily and draw a line around the fitting's edge onto the masking tape.Using a razor, cut along the line and peel off the tape that would be under the fitting's flange. Now you will have masking tape around the fitting to catch the squeeze out.
To install the thru hull, apply a liberal coating of 4200 to the flange and the first inch or so of the fitting under the flange. Normally you would use 5200 but since you are having issues and may need to remove it later, use the 4200.
Here is the important part for installation: Apply a bit of 4200 on the flange of the nut and screw the nut on snuggly but not super tight. You want the 4200 to squeeze out on both sides but you don't want to squeeze out all the adhesive.
Let the fitting sit for a day or so and then retighten a bit tighter. By now the 4200 has set up and partially cured and will not completely squeeze out.
Good luck
"reseat" is different than "reseal". Reseat simply means to remove and reattach. Is that all you did?
What thru-hull are we talking about here? There are different kinds of thru-hulls - some are through a cored area, some are not.
However, there's either something else going on or (assuming a "reseal") it wasn't done correctly - there's no way it should only last 6 years if it was done properly.
And... just to take what Seasick said about 5200 one step further... I would NEVER use that stuff at all for this. 5200 should really only be used for something permanent, which a thru-hull is not. Thru-hulls can be damaged, thru-hulls can leak... 5200 can actually cause damage to the gelcoat when removing. 5200 would be good for the deck to hull cap, though. All that's needed here is a good quality marine sealant, not an "adhesive"... although most sealants do have adhesive properties. 5200 is like super glue, though.
What thru-hull are we talking about here? There are different kinds of thru-hulls - some are through a cored area, some are not.
However, there's either something else going on or (assuming a "reseal") it wasn't done correctly - there's no way it should only last 6 years if it was done properly.
And... just to take what Seasick said about 5200 one step further... I would NEVER use that stuff at all for this. 5200 should really only be used for something permanent, which a thru-hull is not. Thru-hulls can be damaged, thru-hulls can leak... 5200 can actually cause damage to the gelcoat when removing. 5200 would be good for the deck to hull cap, though. All that's needed here is a good quality marine sealant, not an "adhesive"... although most sealants do have adhesive properties. 5200 is like super glue, though.
So Dennis how do you really feel about 5200? 
You did ask a good question that I hadn't though of. Perhaps the OP is referring to a scupper through hull . That's a whole different ball game.
You did ask a good question that I hadn't though of. Perhaps the OP is referring to a scupper through hull . That's a whole different ball game.
Yeah, that about sums it upSo Dennis how do you really feel about 5200?
Truth is, there is really VERY few places where 5200 is approriate. The problem is, it's so widely (wrongly) recommended on forums over and over that we tend to believe it's a cure-all. With something that is not permanent and is primarily a mechanical connection (anything that screws together), all that's needed is a sealant, not an adhesive.