have a 1989 long galvanized trailer with a 17 foot cc kencraft on it. trailer is solid except I need a set of springs for it. anyone know where I can find springs for a LONG trailer
trailer springs
- Thread starter cecilp
- Start date
Trailer brand is not important, especially that old. Measure eye to eye, count the number of leaves, and start looking. Lots of online trailer parts. Tractor Supply, Agri Supply may be local sources.
You may need the drop measurement also. That is the depth of the arch. Look at the old springs to check e ends where the bolts go.They may both be closed (double eye) or one end may be open (slipper style)
Etrailer.com is a good site and I have used them. There are several other sites also.
You may want to replace the hardware also, like the bolts and axel mounting hardware. It is better to disassemble the old setup and see how those parts look before ordering new parts. Removing the hardware may require a penetrant, heat, or even a sawzall!
Etrailer.com is a good site and I have used them. There are several other sites also.
You may want to replace the hardware also, like the bolts and axel mounting hardware. It is better to disassemble the old setup and see how those parts look before ordering new parts. Removing the hardware may require a penetrant, heat, or even a sawzall!
Go to a suspension/spring shop and they would be able to get you sorted. Near where I live these guys do just about everyone's work. http://www.pyett.ca/
Just replaced all my springs bolts equalizers, on my adventure 208 2006 Road King trailer. Found bolts with zerk fittings so you can keep the springs and equalizers lubricated. Needed a nematic impact wrench to remove the old springs. Did one side at a time, fairly easy job!
Not trying to put words in Trappers mouth seasick but those bolts are called "wet bolts" if you are looking for them. Heres how they are built. If you are installing them you need to be cognizant of the orientation of the grease hole so it is not sealed off when the weight is on the spring as it will get packed with crud and be tough to get grease through. I have found that having the hole away from the constant pressure lets you get grease through and the action of the spring, while working over the bumps, will work the grease around.
Never seen the eye of a spring wear out, but the grease might keep them from squeaking as much.
I have replaced the complete running gear a few times, and I wouldn't even start it without a 1/2" impact, and an angle grinder with some thin cut off discs. I bought an electric Chicago impact at Harbor Freight, and it has held up for my infrequent use
I have replaced the complete running gear a few times, and I wouldn't even start it without a 1/2" impact, and an angle grinder with some thin cut off discs. I bought an electric Chicago impact at Harbor Freight, and it has held up for my infrequent use
In my case there were bushings in the spring and equalizer where they are through bolted,. so it lubricates the bushings. I ended up facing the zerk fittings toward the inside of the trailer as facing out makes it almost impossible to grease with out removing the tires, to have enough space to get the grease gun in place. So the greasing happens at the ramp when my boat is off the trailer. Thanks Halfhitch for improving my attempt at explaining the "wet bolt " application.