Just bot a new Load Rite, brakes lock up when backing. I have the flat-5 connector and there is power to the connection. Tie Down Engineering makes the coupler. The only thing that works is when I pull the safety pin, and re-insert it into the hitch so that it can't travel backwards into the coupler. The only thing I can think of is that if the wires were too short, maybe I bent the "blue" pins in the plugs. Or is it a design prob? Anybody else having trouble backing?
Trailer Troubles -- Backing Up
- Thread starter hotajax
- Start date
Your lock-out solonoid for the brake unit needs to connect to the backup lights on the tow vehicle. It may not be wired that way on the factory connector, or the manual may indicate which terminal is backup light power.
You can also use a test light with the truck in reverse and see if any are hot.
But yes, you can manually lock it out as well, kind of a PITA.
You can also use a test light with the truck in reverse and see if any are hot.
But yes, you can manually lock it out as well, kind of a PITA.
Trailer -cont'd
It did work once, but now it doesn't. I dunno, maybe I should cut old plug off and put on a new one. It did work when I first wired it. I checked it with a fluke to the truck side of the plug and it was fine...
It did work once, but now it doesn't. I dunno, maybe I should cut old plug off and put on a new one. It did work when I first wired it. I checked it with a fluke to the truck side of the plug and it was fine...
Test your plugs and wires and make sure you're getting juice. It's possible the solonoid fried or got disconnected. That Tie-Down stuff can be finicky....don't ask me how I know :shock:
Make sure the tow vehicle and trailer harness connectors are nice and clean and making good contact. I routinely have to connect and disconnect mine a bunch of times to get it to work right no matter how clean things look.
That being said, the one and only time I did a drum to disc conversion, I used a manual lockout valve instead of an electric one. $12 and no worries about another electrical component to not work.
That being said, the one and only time I did a drum to disc conversion, I used a manual lockout valve instead of an electric one. $12 and no worries about another electrical component to not work.
trailer issues
Hotajax.....boy does this sound familiar, had a similar issue. I do use the round Ford plug so a different type of connector. I've had to "bounce the empty trailer down the ramp more then once... load rite trailer. I called the dealership, the manufacturer, even asked questions of others. Some how I got in the mail detailed info on the trailer. It turns out that load rite over loads their brake system ... I have the 28T8000 bunk model infact. What I'm going to tell you has fixed my issues and I have not had locking brakes sense. Because the fluid in the braking system is under such pressure and the size of the system itself it takes a few moments for it to release the pressure so you can back up without locking. In the past I would pull up in front of ramp, drop it into reverse and my troubles started....now, its pull up in front of ramp, come to almost a complete stop, go to neutral, I may roll a little bit forward most of the time not, but Do NOT put foot on brake during this ... I do it to a count of 5, drop it into reverse and have not had any issues sense. I know it sounds crazy but the trailer I have has a 12000 lb braking system (for a 8000lb trailer)....you need to let that release the pressure before attempting to back up. If u need more info PM me.
Hotajax.....boy does this sound familiar, had a similar issue. I do use the round Ford plug so a different type of connector. I've had to "bounce the empty trailer down the ramp more then once... load rite trailer. I called the dealership, the manufacturer, even asked questions of others. Some how I got in the mail detailed info on the trailer. It turns out that load rite over loads their brake system ... I have the 28T8000 bunk model infact. What I'm going to tell you has fixed my issues and I have not had locking brakes sense. Because the fluid in the braking system is under such pressure and the size of the system itself it takes a few moments for it to release the pressure so you can back up without locking. In the past I would pull up in front of ramp, drop it into reverse and my troubles started....now, its pull up in front of ramp, come to almost a complete stop, go to neutral, I may roll a little bit forward most of the time not, but Do NOT put foot on brake during this ... I do it to a count of 5, drop it into reverse and have not had any issues sense. I know it sounds crazy but the trailer I have has a 12000 lb braking system (for a 8000lb trailer)....you need to let that release the pressure before attempting to back up. If u need more info PM me.
towing
originally it was an F150 4x4....I finally retired it this year and moved to the F250 4x4...
originally it was an F150 4x4....I finally retired it this year and moved to the F250 4x4...
TunaT, it sounds like you have the blocking type solenoid that holds whatever pressure is in the line when you put it in reverse. I like the bypass type solenoid. You can stop facing down hill with the brakes locked up, but when you put it in reverse, all the pressure is relieved back to the master cylinder and you can backup with no problem.
hotajax, before you cut the plug off, could you test for voltage at the solenoid with the Fluke. You could use a pin or something to pierce the wire and then seal it with liquid tape or something.
hotajax, before you cut the plug off, could you test for voltage at the solenoid with the Fluke. You could use a pin or something to pierce the wire and then seal it with liquid tape or something.
Hookup1
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Trailer backup
First of all confirm you have a backup solenoid in the brake line and whither it has a bypass back to the Tiedown reservoir. The bypass works if you stop on a downhill incline the plain one will keep the brakes locked.
Make sure your trailer lights are working properly.
Hook your meter up to the lead on the bypass and ground and test in park and reverse. You should have 10 to 12 volts on the lead in reverse, engaging the solenoid and locking out the brake actuator. From there you can troubleshoot the harness/connector/truck.
You can get more info at www.easternmarine.com/ or www.tiedown.com/.
First of all confirm you have a backup solenoid in the brake line and whither it has a bypass back to the Tiedown reservoir. The bypass works if you stop on a downhill incline the plain one will keep the brakes locked.
Make sure your trailer lights are working properly.
Hook your meter up to the lead on the bypass and ground and test in park and reverse. You should have 10 to 12 volts on the lead in reverse, engaging the solenoid and locking out the brake actuator. From there you can troubleshoot the harness/connector/truck.
You can get more info at www.easternmarine.com/ or www.tiedown.com/.
Where is the Solenoid located??
Sounds logical, but where is it, and do I have to remove parts to get to it?
Sounds logical, but where is it, and do I have to remove parts to get to it?
If you have the bypass type, it should be mounted right at the outlet of the master cylinder. There will be a short piece of hose connected from the solenoid back to the master cylinder. The hose is what relieves the brake pressure back to the cylinder when you are in reverse. The blocking type could be in the same place or along the frame somewhere but there will be no hose connection from it back to the master cylinder. I am not sure if you have to remove guards or anything to see the back of your master cylinder. I have an Attwood actuator and the solenoid is plainly visible without removing anything on my trailer.
Hookup1
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I don't have a guard on mine. Just as the previous post said - the lockout in inline with the trailer master cylinder and the brake lines. The bypass is a second hose that returns brake fluid to the master cylinder reseovir.
Have the same problem with my Loadrite Trailer and 180 Sportsman. I have had it back to three different Loadrite dealers...each was not able to "find a problem" other than my brakes being burned from the lock-up. Loadrite customer support is nonexistent. Last suggestion was to flip my trailer ball so that the hitch would be higher. I believe there is a fundamental design flaw.
I have a Wesco trailer on my skiff and i have the same problem. Now that you guys reminded me this, i will call them to find out a little more. I have power up the wire before the solinoid.
Hookup1
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Backup solenoid
GOA / Nothing Else Matters - Disk or drum brakes? Are you buring your brakes from backing up? I don't see how that is possible. If I tried to backup and my brake connector is off (no lockout solenoid) you can't move the trailer.
Sounds to me like you may have an actuator problem - not fully releasing the brakes. Maybe the height of the tongue. Get a ruler and measure the front and rear height of the loaded trailer on the vehicle. It should be even, otherwise you need a different lift/drop height on the hitch.
As far as the backup solenoid goes its really easy stuff. When the truck applies its brakes the trailer pushes the actuator against the truck and applies the trailer brakes. When you back up without a lockout solenoid the truck pushes the actuator and applies the brakes to the trailer - you don't move (drum brakes will but disks won't). The lockout solenoid "locks out" the actuator in reverse.
http://www.tiedown.com/pdf/c690.pdf
GOA / Nothing Else Matters - Disk or drum brakes? Are you buring your brakes from backing up? I don't see how that is possible. If I tried to backup and my brake connector is off (no lockout solenoid) you can't move the trailer.
Sounds to me like you may have an actuator problem - not fully releasing the brakes. Maybe the height of the tongue. Get a ruler and measure the front and rear height of the loaded trailer on the vehicle. It should be even, otherwise you need a different lift/drop height on the hitch.
As far as the backup solenoid goes its really easy stuff. When the truck applies its brakes the trailer pushes the actuator against the truck and applies the trailer brakes. When you back up without a lockout solenoid the truck pushes the actuator and applies the brakes to the trailer - you don't move (drum brakes will but disks won't). The lockout solenoid "locks out" the actuator in reverse.
http://www.tiedown.com/pdf/c690.pdf
I had the same problem with my last trailer until the dealer told me what I was doing wrong. My bet is that you are doing the same thing..
You are putting your truck into reverse with the surge brakes engaged because you just came to a hard stop. This locks your brakes on. After you come to a stop, pull forward just a hair to disengage the surge brakes before going to reverse. Now when you go into reverse it will lock the brakes open. Make sense at all?
You are putting your truck into reverse with the surge brakes engaged because you just came to a hard stop. This locks your brakes on. After you come to a stop, pull forward just a hair to disengage the surge brakes before going to reverse. Now when you go into reverse it will lock the brakes open. Make sense at all?
Hookup, i have disc brakes. It worked in the beginning with no problems, the last time i used it i had a problem and never really look at it cause i was using the Grady. When i back up with the boat on it, it would not move, when i back up without the boat on it, the trailer would bounce. Is it possible i have a bad solinoid ?
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Trailer
Either the solenoid or the truck/trailer wiring. When you backup with an empty trailer it sounds to me like the brakes are engagine, locking the wheels and causing the trailer to jump, releasing the brakes only to start over again.
With the trailer and wiring hooked up have someone you trust to follow directions get in the truck. You go to the trailer and put your hand on the backup solenoid. Have them put the truck in reverse and back to neutral a few times. You should be able to hear and feel the solenoid click.
If it doesn't click check the voltage at the solenoid - 10 to 12 volts in reverse - 0 volts in any other gear. Voltage wrong? Bad truck wiring/connector. Voltage good? Bad solenoid.
Either the solenoid or the truck/trailer wiring. When you backup with an empty trailer it sounds to me like the brakes are engagine, locking the wheels and causing the trailer to jump, releasing the brakes only to start over again.
With the trailer and wiring hooked up have someone you trust to follow directions get in the truck. You go to the trailer and put your hand on the backup solenoid. Have them put the truck in reverse and back to neutral a few times. You should be able to hear and feel the solenoid click.
If it doesn't click check the voltage at the solenoid - 10 to 12 volts in reverse - 0 volts in any other gear. Voltage wrong? Bad truck wiring/connector. Voltage good? Bad solenoid.