- Joined
- May 15, 2021
- Messages
- 171
- Reaction score
- 29
- Points
- 28
- Age
- 63
- Location
- Burlington Vermont
- Model
- Gulfstream
I bought a used seafarer from a private party several months ago, and have noticed that it will sway. I’m towing with a Ford F250, in very good condition, and the trailer has just passed its safety inspection. I suspect the trailer is not balanced for the boat. Would a trailer retailer be able to balance this for me?I feel like any trailer that sways is due to poor load balancing and wrong lounge weight. The load can be adjusted front and back with moving axels and winch post on a boat trailer to achieve this. A camper is more restricted on interior layout and design requiring load levelers on light duty trucks.
One of my favorite sights on the highway is a truck/car squatting low due to tongue weight and they have the right equipment, just no idea how to use it.
First question I would ask is if the trailer is level when attached to the truck. If not you have more or less weight on the front/rear axel and it will affect sway. May need a different hitch drop. Beyond that it's tongue weight. Move the boat forward/back, axels forward/back. Trailer dealers can do this but it's hard to find anyone to do small jobs anymore. Need a trailer scale.I bought a used seafarer from a private party several months ago, and have noticed that it will sway. I’m towing with a Ford F250, in very good condition, and the trailer has just passed its safety inspection. I suspect the trailer is not balanced for the boat. Would a trailer retailer be able to balance this for me?
My old 272 Sailfish would sway behind my 2500HD at 40mph if I did not get the boat far enough forward. If the boat was just 4-6" off front winch stop it would barely have any tongue weight. The boat was so heavy if it wasn't all the way forward when floating that was it, and before the ramp I use was redone it was a challenge. I only went a short distance with that boat so it wasn't a big deal.I bought a used seafarer from a private party several months ago, and have noticed that it will sway. I’m towing with a Ford F250, in very good condition, and the trailer has just passed its safety inspection. I suspect the trailer is not balanced for the boat. Would a trailer retailer be able to balance this for me?
Just a side note... that 10% is more about travel trailers/5th wheels. For boat trailers, the manufacturers recommend 5% to 7%.My old 272 Sailfish would sway behind my 2500HD at 40mph if I did not get the boat far enough forward. If the boat was just 4-6" off front winch stop it would barely have any tongue weight. The boat was so heavy if it wasn't all the way forward when floating that was it, and before the ramp I use was redone it was a challenge. I only went a short distance with that boat so it wasn't a big deal.
General rule of thumb is 10% total weight should be on the tongue. I am sure a shop can do it, but its not hard to do yourself. Depending the the setup this can be done moving winch stand or the axles.
We are putting the trailer under the new to us 305 Express tomorrow. I am gear to see how thats going to tow. We got a Load Rite 18,000gvw trailer for it, if I can maintain 65mph without sway on the highway I'll call that a win!
If the trailer is sized correctly, Yes. If the trailer is either oversized or undersized, maybe no.I bought a used seafarer from a private party several months ago, and have noticed that it will sway. I’m towing with a Ford F250, in very good condition, and the trailer has just passed its safety inspection. I suspect the trailer is not balanced for the boat. Would a trailer retailer be able to balance this for me?
For a very light/small boat I agree - it's a good idea to go to a higher percentage. But the 5% -7% comes direct from the manufacturers that I deal with and is also coming from not only personal experience but also the hundreds of trailers we've set up for decades.Too little tongue weight causes the trailer to sway as described above. It's the most common cause of trailer instability. You hear some suggestions that the tongue weight should be "a minimum of 7% of the total load". In my experience, that is incorrect. It needs to be between 10% to 15% of the total load. If that causes too much squatting, you need to beef up the rear suspension using any of the many after-market solutions. If you have too much tongue weight, the front end of the vehicle will tend to wander rather than track straight.
It's quite possible there was another variable at play with your setup that was unique, as well. In the end, all that matters is you got it dialed in for YOUR rigMy experience was mostly with lighter boats and trailers when I lived out west. Mostly no more than 5000 total weight. So you may well be right.
I've only pulled my Grady with a 3/4 ton diesel tricked out to haul a 3000+ lb slide-in camper (airbags, adjustable shock, Bigwig anti-sway bar). I have a short trailer and the tongue weight is 12% with the airbags trimmed out level.
Jack was off the ground, barely. Truck is capable, 2500HD Duramax. Truck is about 1” lower in rear compared to front when I measured tires to fenders, I can live with that. I have a new receiver hitch that will bring the trailer tongue up another 2”, won’t effect truck height but it will level the trailer some.Truck looks too low in back. Also looks like its still on the tongue jack. Get it out on some level road. check the trailer for level and see what the truck does.
Trailer looks capable. What's the truck capacity - payload and towing? I would get a tongue weight too.