Trim Tabs for a boat that never had them

[jmoneilthe2]

I have a GW Seafarer 22 (1992). I want to install trim tabs and have seen several types on the market.

I'm leaning toward the electric opposed to the hydraulic kind that don't require drilling holes completely thru the transom with the exception of the hole for the wires.

I was hoping someone who has added trip tabs to boat similar to mine could help me make the correct decision on a purchase.

Thanks for you help...

 

[seasick]

Hydraulics are slower but generally last longer than electrics. They do need a space for the pump to be mounted.
Electrics are faster to respond but the cylinders/motors don't last as long as hydraulic
Electrics tabs be a bit easier to install since you don't have to deal with running tubing. Depending on where the pump would be located, that may not be a big deal
Although I have no direct experience with Seakeeper Ride product, it gets good reviews and sound very interesting. If you goal is to correct for listing at speed, Seakeeper Ride may be a good solution. It doesn't help to get on plane nearly as much as traditional tabs would. Make sure that you select the correct size tab for Bennets or Lenco's or other traditional tabs. .

 

[DennisG01]

I have a GW Seafarer 22 (1992). I want to install trim tabs and have seen several types on the market.

I'm leaning toward the electric opposed to the hydraulic kind that don't require drilling holes completely thru the transom with the exception of the hole for the wires.

I was hoping someone who has added trip tabs to boat similar to mine could help me make the correct decision on a purchase.

Thanks for you help...

Whether it's a hole for the wires or a hole for the small hyrdraulic line... it's still a hole. And, done properly, is a complete non issue so it's kind of a moot point. As long as you do a proper install, it''ll be all good.

I like hydraulic because of the reliability factor. I'm curious about the ZipWake style, though.

FYI, you won't need advice from someone that has a boat "similar" to yours. This again is a moot point - the installation is the same regardless of the boat.

 

[Sardinia306Canyon]

Well, the reason for the wish to mount trim tabs and the budget would help to suggest what to install.

Just to get a heavy stern up could be solved by shifting weight and if still necessary then simple, electric trim tabs, hydraulic ones are bulky on a 22ft boat
If the reason is to control list because of people moving around then cheapest is to have them sit down and don't move, thats safer for them also.
Should helmsman be too lazy to adjust frequently trim tabs because of moving people or sea state then the auto trim function of Seakeeper Ride, Zipwake or Humphrees comes handy, but at a steep price.
Interceptor style trim correctors (SK ride, Zipwake and Huphrees) are also more fuel efficient than traditional trim tabs but i never had the feeling that i need auto trim tab control.

Chris

 

[luckydude]

I will echo others and urge you to get tabs that are big enough. Bennett says, for 9 inch deep tabs you want an inch for each foot of boat length. Grady put 9x12s on my 228, that's half as big as they should be. I upgraded those to 12x18 and now the boat rides like it should. It was a huge upgrade, I would not still own this boat if I had stuck with the 9x12s, rode like crap.

 

[KcFerry]

Have you considered a fin that mounts to the cavitation plate. My 20' Mako used to porpoise terribly if I got on it, but after installing the fin, I could run WOT and just trim the boat with the motor. The only downside is that you can't trim for list in a crosswind, but that was a non- issues in the little Mako.
Just my two pennies.

 

[jmoneilthe2]

Whether it's a hole for the wires or a hole for the small hyrdraulic line... it's still a hole. And, done properly, is a complete non issue so it's kind of a moot point. As long as you do a proper install, it''ll be all good.

I like hydraulic because of the reliability factor. I'm curious about the ZipWake style, though.

FYI, you won't need advice from someone that has a boat "similar" to yours. This again is a moot point - the installation is the same regardless of the boat.

I watched a video where the guy put multiple holes thru transom and secured the tab with bolts. I want to avoid putting multiple holes in my transom.

 

[Recoil Rob]

I put 9x12 Lectro Tabs in my 180 four years ago and wouldn't be without them. Ending my 4th year no problems, easy to install and operate.
While hydraulics may be more dependable, Lectrotab has a lifetime warranty on their pistons so if one goes bad, I'll just change it.
You'll have to drill two holes in the transom to let the wires through, but they're small. I was more concerned about the 10 screws on each side to hold the tabs to the transom but I used 5200 to seal it before I put the screws in, no problems I can see.

 

[DennisG01]

I watched a video where the guy put multiple holes thru transom and secured the tab with bolts. I want to avoid putting multiple holes in my transom.

I hear 'ya, but I think you're still missing the point... or maybe don't yet fully understand the installation process? Regardless of "style" of tab, you still need to secure it to the transom. Whether by screws or thru-bolts is relatively inconsequential to the integrity of the transom. And, there's a possibility that that guy took some extra steps to do it in a more superior way than the regular way.

 

[jmoneilthe2]

I hear 'ya, but I think you're still missing the point... or maybe don't yet fully understand the installation process? Regardless of "style" of tab, you still need to secure it to the transom. Whether by screws or thru-bolts is relatively inconsequential to the integrity of the transom. And, there's a possibility that that guy took some extra steps to do it in a more superior way than the regular way.

I understand you must drill holes, but whether they go all the way through is my concern. I see some installations putting screws in, but the screw hole and screw doesn’t go all the way through the transom. That is the type of tabs I want. Thanks for your input.

 

[DennisG01]

I understand you must drill holes, but whether they go all the way through is my concern. I see some installations putting screws in, but the screw hole and screw doesn’t go all the way through the transom. That is the type of tabs I want. Thanks for your input.

Hydraulic tabs can be screwed in.

But whether it's screws or bolts, the core can still be compromised if not done correctly... or remain perfectly fine if done properly.

Are you basing your info on youtube/etc? Or using the instructions provided by the manufacturer?

 

[Ekea]

ive never heard of water leaking into the bilge through trim tab screw holes, thats pretty much a non-risk. the risk with a poor installation is water getting inside the transom. pick the style that performs the way you want, install it correctly, and dont worry about it.

 

[jmoneilthe2]

Hydraulic tabs can be screwed in.

But whether it's screws or bolts, the core can still be compromised if not done correctly... or remain perfectly fine if done properly.

Are you basing your info on youtube/etc? Or using the instructions provided by the manufacturer?

I'm gathering info from everywhere to make a decision.

 

[jmoneilthe2]

I'm gathering info from everywhere to make a decision.

I don't mind screwing in multiple screws for each tab as long as the screw is not penetrating all the way thru the transom. My goal is to install trim tabs with out multiple screw holes that go all the way thru the transom....

 

[Fishtales]

Grady Transom + Holes = Bad Idea

Why not design for tabs and have an area that is glass only GW?

 

[JeffN]

FYI, you won't need advice from someone that has a boat "similar" to yours. This again is a moot point - the installation is the same regardless of the boat.

Well perhaps info on where different systems have been mounted with good access etc. and first hand feedback from owners of electric vs hydraulic on a similar model would be useful to the OP.