Trolling motor on 33 Canyon

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gatordmd

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I am strongly considering adding a trolling motor to my 2014 33 foot canyon. The boat lives in the Florida Keys and I fish the reef and deep drop. Does anyone have a trolling motor and I would like to hear your thoughts and recommendations. Thanks in advance.
 
I will install a TM on my 306 Canyon and most likely it will be the 90" Garmin Kraken with 100lbs of thrust.
Minn Kota has a model with 100" pole and 115 lbs thrust what is 15 lbs more than Garmin Kraken claims, but the MK Instinct Quest is about 2K, the Terrova about 1K more expensive than the Kraken
The MK Instinct Quest has auto deploy feature what sounds great, but some report that auto deploy breaks after some use and others report that they snapped the shaft near the head unit.
This problems steer me away from MK - even if the auto deploy would be great for me - and probably will go with the Kraken.

Your 33 Canyon is bigger and bow is probably a bit higher so your safer solution would be a 100" shaft 115 lbs Minn Kota.

Consider also additional 2-5K for 36V LiFePo battery, 110V battery charger, cables, electrical installation, fabrication and installation of a adapter plate for bow to complete the installation.

Chris
 
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Dolce Vita said:
Please post photos if you decide to add the motor.
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Yes i will add the motor in any case and will post photos and a short installation tutorial
The ex owner already made a project and it does not look complicated, just a plate on gunnel where the base goes.
On the 306 Canyon the TM lies flat on the gunnel and does not obstruct the windlass cover.
As far i understood it's a rather easy install.
I have a knee surgery in Zurich just before xmas and plan to be back in Sardinia end of February and supervise the install then, so you need to be patient.
Chris
 
Also look at Rhodan as their longest shaft is 108 inches. I had a Rhodan on my 236 Fisherman, but sold it and got the Garmin Karken so I can control it from my Garmin chartplotter. The Rhodan was great, but being in the Garmin echosystem is better.
 
My bow is 50" above surface so i expect that the 90" shaft should be more than plenty, however longer would be better but makes it more problematic to stow the motor on the gunnel. And if user need/wnt to take motor off then it can become a problem to store the motor off the boat.
Rhodan is not available in Europe and i have all Garmin so the Kraken would be the one to install.
Chris
 
The bigger question IMO is what brand TM to get. I HIGHLY recommend getting a TM that will interface with your chartplotter. Having insight into the TM and controlling it from your helm will make life much much much easier. FWIW, the Kraken can only be controlled from a Garmin chartplotter. I sold my Rhodan when Garmin introduced their Kraken and I have an 8612 at my helm. I loved my Rhodan, it worked flawlessly, and I wouldn't give up using it for the one year I had it before Garmin came out with the Kraken.
 
rocketguy88 said:
The bigger question IMO is what brand TM to get. I HIGHLY recommend getting a TM that will interface with your chartplotter. Having insight into the TM and controlling it from your helm will make life much much much easier. FWIW, the Kraken can only be controlled from a Garmin chartplotter. I sold my Rhodan when Garmin introduced their Kraken and I have an 8612 at my helm. I loved my Rhodan, it worked flawlessly, and I wouldn't give up using it for the one year I had it before Garmin came out with the Kraken.
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I am curious as to which motors have the most reliable performance, base my experience on that, then interface a chart plotter to it. I know several people who have the Minn Kota Terrova 112 brushless, you have experience with the Rhodan, I am curious about the Kraken's overall performance since it has been out.
 
Jimsalv
Have a look at this video, original poster in THT wrote that he know the guiys and that they are unbiased.
Basically the Kraken is the most powerful despite the 15lbs lower trust but use most current what makes sense as having most power.

I am following the Kraken from when he's out and i can't recall any user who had problems with it, however it's probably the least sold one so less failure may depend on that too.
Most problems i was reading of where either the Rhodan and some models of the Minn Kota (snapping shafts and self destroying auto deploy/store).

If you use only spotlock than chartplotter intergration is not that important and on some/all you can insert a route with the remote control what is obviously not very comfortable, while chartplotter integration will make slow speed moving following tracks or routs much more simple. But for spot lock only the remote control will do it, either press the spotlock button and boat keeps position or steer in 1.5 meter steps in any direction using remote controls buttons.

Chris
 
I had zero issues with my Rhodan during the 1 year I had it. It held my 236 Fisherman steady in 20 knot winds when the conditions were not fun to fish in. The Kraken seems just as powerful, but i now have the ability to control it on my Garmin 8612. Both worked just fine with zero issues.
 
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I am also installing a TM on my 2020 336 Canyon. My guy is planning in installing the battery next to the generator. Haven’t decided on the motor yet but probably the longest unit available.
 
REELTirement 2 said:
My guy is planning in installing the battery next to the generator.
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Where is the generator on the 336 Canyon? In the bilge on the stern?
If the generator is in the bilge on stern then i personally would absolutely avoid to install the battery there as a 30ft+ thick, high amp cable running from stern to bow i not what i would like to have.
The TM battery should be as near as possible to the trolling motor, so on my 306 the battery will go in a waterproof box between the two bow benches, but it may be a option to install the battery under the floor there if the bow thruster access hatch is removed, the hole cut bigger and a bigger access plate is installed. Obviously this would work only if no bow thruster is installed.
Chris
 
I put my battery in the center console and ran the cables thru the same path the windlass wire runs. We never use the head so I removed it and built a battery box maid of 1/2" starboard and screwed it into the same screw holes the head was installed by. While I obviously don't have a generator on my 236, the comment about not installing the battery next to the generator is totally 100% valid.
 
I did same on my 98 BW 23 Outrage as she suffered from the weight of the twin 150HP Yamahas on the stern.
Pulled the Port-A-Potty and installed the house batteries there while the two engine batteries where moved most forward in the bilge area. Ride quality became considerable better!
However, i may do same thing in my 306 Canyon as i never use the toilet, but could use the space for either rod storage rack and/or additional house batteries.

I never use the bow table and have it flat on the benches to create a casting platform so i have space below for a battery box. Sealing the table to the bench should make the space under it rather protected, only problem is then where to put my life raft what was last year there.
Chris
 
I know this is an older thread but I have some relavant info. I had a 307 freedom before I bought my current 325. The 307 had the LiPo TM battery installed just behind the fuel tank, in front of the regular batteries. This is in the rear bilge/hatch area. It did have a cable running up to a plug mounted just above the anchor rode door in the bow. Never had any issue. Also don't think running the wire that far is an issue. The bow thruster also has large guage cables running to it from the batteries in the back and that is OEM rigging. I wouldn't sweat the battery location just size the wire correctly. On my 325 Freedom it does not have the Gen option and I will be mounting the future TM battery in that location. The extra 6-8 feet from the console to the rear hatch area isn't changing anything provided you use appropriately sized wire. Also make sure you have circuit breaker near the battery NOT near the TM. If it trips, you want to kill the current running through those wires at the battery (or close to it as possible).
 
B-Shell said:
The extra 6-8 feet from the console to the rear hatch area isn't changing anything provided you use appropriately sized wire.
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Yep!
This is the disadvantage of running long cables and cable should be at least #4 gauge, depending on how much the TM pulls.
Depending on where th DCDC Charger is mounted, same for the cables for the IN from starter battery and OUT to LiFePo battery.
Chris
 
Sardinia306Canyon said:
Yep!
This is the disadvantage of running long cables and cable should be at least #4 gauge, depending on how much the TM pulls.
Depending on where th DCDC Charger is mounted, same for the cables for the IN from starter battery and OUT to LiFePo battery.
Chris
Click to expand...
In both of my boats all the chargers are in the aft compartment very close to the batteries so that isn't an issue. I just wanted to share that having the battery back there and running the cables to the front is neither unsafe nor any more difficult. I would suggest it is better than having a battery on the deck or taking up more valuable storage somewhere else. I certainly would not be cutting new access holes to access a battery if you put in the forward bow thruster space.
 
I ended up putting my batteries in the forward starboard compartment. I have 2 36v lithium ion batteries. I am thrilled with the trolling motor. Very easy to use. However, my windlass just broke, and I am debating on whether or not to replace it. The cost of a new one is 2200, and about 1500 to install. I only use it at the sandbar now that I have my trolling motor.
 
gatordmd said:
I only use it at the sandbar now that I have my trolling motor.
Click to expand...
So you wan't to use the TM on a Sandbar while you lounge?
That sounds as a bad idea to me, for many reasons.

If you don't want to replace the windlass then just haul anchor by hand, there will not be a lot of rode to retrieve.
Check for other shops/installers who will provide and install a new windlass for a more normal cost,
the same windlass may be expensive, but direct replacement is a few hours of labour.
Chris
 
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