VAPOR SEPARATOR TANK / FILTER - MAINTENANCE

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hotajax

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My shop manual shows me the maintenance in this area in to replace a filter on the pressure pump. Yet I've seen guys here discussing cleaning out a tank having to do with the vapor sep.

For someone like me with limited outboard engine repair experience, but decent mechanical skills, a Yamaha repair manual, and a decent set of metric tools, is this a do-able undertaking?

May I prevail on the more knowledgeable people with these questions? What is the maintenance? Are any parts besides the filter consumed in the maintenance process? Where is the VST? Front or back of the engine, port or starboard? And the big question, how long should this repair or cleanout take?

Thank you in advance.
 
There are many posts , some including pictures, of VST removal and cleaning.
Many times the screen just needs to be cleaned and not replaced. The more common replacement part is the rubber gasket under the top cover. Sometimes it is difficult to reuse since it tends to expand. Someone posted that he put his in the freezer before reinstall and it fit fine. The gasket runs abot $35.
 
Whoa ! Looks like more work on the Fs. More in the way to remove.

I never had to take the entire VST tank off the motor.
 
The Flatliners post on BBC that Catch 22 added to the thread on my subject no longer has the photos, does anyone have the instructions WITH THE PHOTOS to post here for the OX66/HPDI ?
 
BobP said:
The Flatliners post on BBC that Catch 22 added to the thread on my subject no longer has the photos, does anyone have the instructions WITH THE PHOTOS to post here for the OX66/HPDI ?
Click to expand...

Here's your op Bob, (lots of info there) - http://www.greatgrady.com/forum/viewtop ... sc&start=0

I used your method and it worked fine. I agree, leave the tank in-place.

VST is on port side, toward the front.

Replace the yellow filter, (screen), tank seal, (O ring) and pre-filter, (last pic).

Some difficult steps worth mentioning are;
Removing, (and not dropping :oops: ) the 9 small screws that seal the tank top. Especially the ones on the back of the tank. I loosened as many as I could before un-bolting the tank. Mine were very tight.

Re-alligning the new screen, (2 parts) with the pump. Looking at it from the bottom - up, twist the screen "counter-clockwise" to snap the slot onto the post at the bottom of the pump. See pic #5.

And... make sure the tank seal, (O ring) is seated properly when re-attaching the tank top. See pic #6.

Here's the pics from that bbc thread...

MVC-014F.jpg


MVC-006F.jpg


MVC-008F.jpg


MVC-013F.jpg


MVC-012F.jpg


MVC-009F.jpg


MVC-018F1.jpg
 
FOR CATCH22

Thanks for the abundant photos. Quesiton, in your last photo, there are a couple of filters that look like an "in-line" type filter. I did not see them in any of the previous photos as the vapor tank is separated. Where are those filters located? Thanks again.
 
It's on top of the tank external, you just don't see it the way the photos were taken. I don't know if the OX66 has it too, the HPDI does have it.

Those are the Flatliner's photos from BBC.
 
And it's only one filter actually a screen in the can, the photo shows the special connector befor and after it is connected.
 
Yea, I was a little worried there would be confusion about the pre-filter pic, (2 shown). I think the op on the bbc thread was having difficulty removing it and decided to replace the connector itself. The replacement filter will look like the bottom pic. The connector is attached to the hose. The connector is similar to an air hose type. You have to pry the slit apart while pulling the hose away. The slit is just to the right of the tapered side, (upper pic). When re-attaching, just push the connector firmly onto the filter and it will lock itself in place... again, like an air hose "quick connect".
 
no need to clean unless you have junk come out when you remove the crew

i usually just spark power tune in the drain screw, cap it up for 10 mins and then drain again while using the primer bulb to flush
 
JUST-IN-TIME said:
no need to clean unless you have junk come out when you remove the crew

i usually just spark power tune in the drain screw, cap it up for 10 mins and then drain again while using the primer bulb to flush
Click to expand...

Richie, when I had my HPDI's that was about the start time the ethanol had an ill effect on the VST filter. Some guys were talking about just spraying carb cleaner in the drain hole but I never tried it. After taking apart my VST (HPDI) I cleaned the filter with carb cleaner and it seemed to break down all the crap and clean the filter like new.

I havent done my F250's yet with about 500 hrs but its on the back of my mind. Have you had good success spraying cleaner in the drain hole on the F250's? And how much are you spraying?I could understand wanting to flush the tank a few times with fuel to clean out all the crud and cleaner.Thanks for any imput.
 
Catch, I don't think he knew how to get it off. Neither would I just looking at it.
I'm doing those this year with the VST filter cleaning.

Didn't use Startron this year, only marine stabil, I'll see if it matters on the VSTs come spring. But will drain VST before layout, didn't drain last year. So results may not be conclusive on Startron vs. Stabil.
 
if you get crud out, you really need to open it up

if you run the 2 micron racors, this will stop 99.5% of the crud
 
BobP said:
Catch, I don't think he knew how to get it off. Neither would I just looking at it.
I'm doing those this year with the VST filter cleaning.
Click to expand...

You brought up another good point in your previous post and I agree... I don't think the ox66's use the pre-filter... just the hpdi's. I don't see it in any of Yamaha's parts drawings.

I know the ox66 isn't as finicky as an hpdi, but without the pre-filter, I would think it's just as important to do the cleaning and screen change as regular maintenance.
 
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