When is it time to change fuel tanks?

[Fishtales]

Looking for input on when I can expect to replace fuel tanks and lines. I'd prefer to do proactively. I've been quoted 4-weeks to have the tanks fabricated and 2-weeks to install. That would be a big chunk of the season and that's probably best case. Looking to mitigate out of water time and do this at layup at some point. Thanks...

 

[Sardinia306Canyon]

Did that an almost all of my boats and it can be done in one day but can end within weeks.
All depend how simple and quick tanks come out and if no unexpected problems lurk below the tanks.
Key for a quick fuel tank replacement is having experienced helpers!
Chris

 

[Hookup1]

Where are you? Are you doing the work yourself? Can you get the boat under cover?

I did the tanks on my Islander two years ago. I did all the work except for lifting the tanks out and back in. Given the year of your boat GW should be able to give you tank drawings that you can verify. Big issue is how difficult is it to get both tanks out. I have to chainsaw a bulkhead out and replace it. Steps had to be notched and a 1' square access cut to replace fuel fill hoses. Then re-glassed and finished.

Search the posts for members that have your boat and have done tanks to see how difficult it was to get the tanks out.

20 years is in the replacement range. Tanks corrode on the bottom so inspection is difficult. If you take the tank out you might as well replace it.

Hard to say how long it would take. I wasn't in a hurry and it took a while over the summer. You can look at dates on my post below.

Thread '268 Islander Fuel Tank Replacement'

Jul 10, 2023

Decided that this is the year to replace my 25 yo fuel tanks. No leaks. I plan to keep the boat. I'll document the process here.

Pulled the hatch. This hatch was rebuilt a few years ago with Coosa board. Looks good and feels solid. Hatch was set with 3M 4000 - kept everything sealed. Some difficulty cutting with blade to get it up. Not sure what it will go down with. Deck ports were caulked in from the underside as well. Kept the tanks dry.



I also put plastic over the fill, sending unit and pickup. This deflects any water away from the busy area of the tank.

...

• Hookup1
• Replies: 67
• Forum: Tips, Modifications and Electronics

• 

 

[Ky Grady]

Time-line for my 2004 Seafarer.

Bought in April of 2017, no issues, no fuel smell through the rest of '17. First part of '18 was ok, late '18 started smelling fuel in bilge. Investigation revealed the sending unit flange on auxiliary tank was severely corroded and leaking with a full tank. Replaced auxiliary tank the end of '18. Early summer of '19 and down in Florida on vacation, both tanks full, start smelling fuel again in bilge, pull inspection ports over both tanks, no visible signs of fuel leaks. Got back home and pulled floors, still no signs of leaks but had fuel coming out of Garboard drain. Pulled main tank and found holes through the bottom of the tank.

So to answer your question,, mine was 14-15 year time frame for my tank replacements. It's all very dependent upon how PO maintained the boat before you bought it.
The last picture was some of the crud in bottom of fuel compartment under the tank. With that wet and saturated with saltwater up against the tank all the time probably wasn't good for the tank.

 

[JJF]

Well, if the boat is coming up on 20 YO and you're questioning it, then I think you should do them now...assuming it's in the budget.

 

[HMBJack]

Have you rinsed your tank compartment annually like the GW Owner's Manual says? (few of us here do BTW)
Is your Tank compartment damp? i.e. do you see black mold in the underside area of your access caps?
This is likely the case if you still have the factory pop-in access caps (Vs. screw in type).

If your tank compartment is reasonably dry and you don't smell the least bit of gas fumes, you can wait IMHO.
As you know, gas tanks don't just burst open. If they begin to leak, it is very subtle. Your nose is the best instrument here.

All that said, if you have the time and money, it is very proactive to remove and replace tanks that are 20+ years old.
And, you will add value to your boat in doing so.

Hope these thoughts help you in your decision...

 

[Ekea]

Well, if the boat is coming up on 20 YO and you're questioning it, then I think you should do them now...assuming it's in the budget.

x2 for someone that wants to be proactive and do it at a time of your choosing.

i did the tank on my boat due to a leak. the tank was removed my my local boat yard (they did the pressure test, it failed, they did a visual inspection). i had a outfit in Jersey build the tank, and i did the install myself. for my Chase, the deck work was all glue and screw, no fiberglass work. overall, doing the tank itself wasnt terrible. i did replace the fill and vent hoses at the same time and that was a bit of a pain.

 

[Ekea]

i did a semi-decent write up of my process

Thread 'Another Fuel Tank Thread'

Jan 17, 2024

the tank in my boat gave up the ghost. i had expected this to be the case ever since i filled up the first time this summer (first season with the boat) as there was fuel in the bilge after filling. i got through the season by only running the tank about 1/2 full. yesterday, it failed the pressure test and after the deck hatch was pulled, they found a crack near the top of the tank. the tank is now 24 years old, so......

it looks like i will be getting a new tank made by Atlantic Coastal Welding in NJ. the new tank will be the same external dimensions, be made with 1/4" aluminum...

• Ekea
• Replies: 30
• Forum: General Discussion

• 

 

[Sardinia306Canyon]

First part of '18 was ok, late '18 started smelling fuel in bilge. Investigation revealed the sending unit flange on auxiliary tank was severely corroded and leaking with a full tank.

I have same, but less damaged corrosion on the rear tank as the pie-plate leaks over it and it seems to be a common issue.
I am not sure what to do, pulling one/both tanks and replacing them what would be a hefty bill, or clean, prime and use a better gasket or 5200 or a engine head gasket sealant to install a new sender. My fuel tanks look good and are from 2011 so i expect that they should last another 5 years before they start to leak seriously.
As i will repower and some other changes in electronics my 2025 budget is a bit tight but i am aware that fuel tank will start to leak in July when no shipyard will have time to help me to pull and replace the tank ...

It is always the best to replace a fuel tank before he start to leak and 20 years are already a long time, so i would replace them, both together. And then install a better and 100% watertight access plate!

Chris

 

[Ky Grady]

I have same, but less damaged corrosion on the rear tank as the pie-plate leaks over it and it seems to be a common issue.
I am not sure what to do, pulling one/both tanks and replacing them what would be a hefty bill, or clean, prime and use a better gasket or 5200 or a engine head gasket sealant to install a new sender. My fuel tanks look good and are from 2011 so i expect that they should last another 5 years before they start to leak seriously.
As i will repower and some other changes in electronics my 2025 budget is a bit tight but i am aware that fuel tank will start to leak in July when no shipyard will have time to help me to pull and replace the tank ...

It is always the best to replace a fuel tank before he start to leak and 20 years are already a long time, so i would replace them, both together. And then install a better and 100% watertight access plate!

Chris

Don't know if I'm 100% watertight, but I did change out all my inspection ports to screw-in instead of the pop in. Had to help mitigate some of the water from hitting the top of the tank and the sending unit areas.

 

[Sardinia306Canyon]

Don't know if I'm 100% watertight, but I did change out all my inspection ports to screw-in instead of the pop in.

It looks exactly like mine and mine is 100% from water dripping on it.
When you have the boat in the water and after using it, unscrew the inspection port and check for water drops on the tank.

I don't understand why fuel tanks dont have a slightly curved top so that any water from whatever source would run on the sides and then down. Corroding fuel sender and elbows happen on almost all boats with a access plate just above it.

Chris

 

[fishermanjim]

Time-line for my 2004 Seafarer.

Bought in April of 2017, no issues, no fuel smell through the rest of '17. First part of '18 was ok, late '18 started smelling fuel in bilge. Investigation revealed the sending unit flange on auxiliary tank was severely corroded and leaking with a full tank. Replaced auxiliary tank the end of '18. Early summer of '19 and down in Florida on vacation, both tanks full, start smelling fuel again in bilge, pull inspection ports over both tanks, no visible signs of fuel leaks. Got back home and pulled floors, still no signs of leaks but had fuel coming out of Garboard drain. Pulled main tank and found holes through the bottom of the tank.

So to answer your question,, mine was 14-15 year time frame for my tank replacements. It's all very dependent upon how PO maintained the boat before you bought it.
The last picture was some of the crud in bottom of fuel compartment under the tank. With that wet and saturated with saltwater up against the tank all the time probably wasn't good for the tank.

View attachment 35928View attachment 35929View attachment 35930View attachment 35931View attachment 35932

Do you remember where you got your replacement tank? I have a 1993 228G and believe it is the original tank. May be time to replace

 

[Ky Grady]

Do you remember where you got your replacement tank? I have a 1993 228G and believe it is the original tank. May be time to replace

I went back to the original manufacturer, Florida Marine Tanks. I road tripped to Henderson NC and picked them up. Made a trip out of it and hit A&J Canvas and Grady-White factory while I was in North Carolina.

 

[Sea Shift]

Looking for input on when I can expect to replace fuel tanks and lines. I'd prefer to do proactively. I've been quoted 4-weeks to have the tanks fabricated and 2-weeks to install. That would be a big chunk of the season and that's probably best case. Looking to mitigate out of water time and do this at layup at some point. Thanks...

I ordered through Welding World and four weeks manufacture is accurate with delivery. They were great to work with and have many specs on their website. If you get the tanks first then no down time. A two week removal and install was totally doable for my 265 Express. It depends on your model boat and if tanks are accessible like mine. Biggest problem for me was disposal of the old fuel, so I recommend running it down as low as possible prior.
A competent installer should have no problem.

 

[family affair]

You all are making me wonder. Has anyone ever seen a tank that looked factory new on the top with a hole in the bottom? The PO of our boat had a lot of free time on his hands and was a clean freak. I'm confident he rinsed the tank yearly. The top side of my tanks are like new at 20 YO, but I know they typically start leaking at the bottom. Maybe I can snake a camera underneath to take a peak.?

 

[Fishtales]

Thanks to all. The boat was put in the water in 2007. I think I will look at replacements after this upcoming season.

 

[SkunkBoat]

You all are making me wonder. Has anyone ever seen a tank that looked factory new on the top with a hole in the bottom? The PO of our boat had a lot of free time on his hands and was a clean freak. I'm confident he rinsed the tank yearly. The top side of my tanks are like new at 20 YO, but I know they typically start leaking at the bottom. Maybe I can snake a camera underneath to take a peak.?

Ohio? freshwater boat? much less worries. Often the screws at the sending unit are a good indicator.

 

[family affair]

Ohio? freshwater boat? much less worries. Often the screws at the sending unit are a good indicator.

Boat began life on the Alabama coast in a dry stack with very little use. The 2nd owner mostly cleaned it in his garage and occasionally fished it.
Coincidentally I did have to pull the sending unit to siphon a little water and fuel sludge off the bottom - ethanol is a heck of a solvent! Aside from that, the inside, topside, and sending unit area looked like new. Based on your comment, I might be good for a while.

 

[Timcan]

I replaced my tank at the 24 year mark on my 228 without any leak but it was about to leak anytime . My tank looked similar to Ky Grady’s tank. The top and sides of the tank were in good shape. The bottom where Grady White puts two strips of rubber/plastic to elevate the tank was where all the pitting was located. My observation is water gets trapped in between the strips and the tank and that’s where it pits. So rinsing your tank helps on the top and sides but at the bottom where the strips are located it’s imposible to rinse. On my new tank I glued the strips with 5200 to prevent the moisture from getting trapped. I also replaced all the hoses, overall it was a straight forward install for 2 tanks not very difficult.

 

[Ekea]

i recommend doing smaller multiple strips so water collecting at the edge of the strip wouldnt have to travel the length of the tank to drip around the strip. also, it allows airflow around the middle of the tank in both directions rather than just length wise

edit - i realize this may be overkill, and clearly tanks have lasted 20 years with poor installs. just throwing my 2 cents out.