Winterizing Checklist

[hotajax]

Anyone have a checklist of winterization actions for a 225 Yam 2-stroke?
Things I already plan to do:
Change lower unit lube;
Replace gaskets around drain and fill plugs in lower unit;
Top off tanks and add Marine Stabil, Startron, and Ring-Free;
Remove batteries to take them home to keep them charged up;
Remove deck plates;
Spray Engine-Store into the spark plug holes;
Put the trailer up on blocks;
Sadly remove my fishing tackle.

Miss anything? My first winter with this boat. Thanks.

 

[BobP]

You got the important items covered very well. For the anal guys like me - off the top of my head:

Use the manual overide switch to fill up the on-motor oil tank to high mark. Fill your remote oil tank.
(both to limit condensation in oil system just like you did to the gas tank).

Pull condensate drip leg off the on-engine oil tank and drain off any water. If any water comes out, I'd advise to dump out the remote oil tank and start with fresh oil.

Check & clean the boat oil and gas deck fill O rings, or just change the o rings to new. You may not have a remote fill for the oil tank.

Grease all motor zerk fittings.

Check you motor zinc anodes, need new ones? Can do now or in Spring.

Pull prop and thrust bearing, clean and regrease shaft. You can store prop now and regrease/install in spring, or just reinstall now. I do this every second year.

New spark plugs in spring after startup, if new plugs are due.

New racor element now or in spring. If you don't have a remote fuel filter /water separator, install one. The motor has a gas filter too you should check - can do in the Spring.

You may want to replace the oil filter on remote oil tank feed line - can do in spring or now. It's an inline filter right at the bottom of the tank where the feed hose exits.

Some use a protectant spray coating on under cowl motor - like the T9 stuff. Avoid the silicone spray even though Yamaha sells it and recommends it's use in the manual. And keep spray away from intakes, engine off, of course while spraying.

If you don't have an owners manual, go to Yamaha web site, drill down to outboards, you can view entire manual in .pdf for free. It shows all the grease fittings, etc.

Then happily, prep your fishing tackle for next spring !

 

[plymouthgrady]

Be sure to run the treated fuel thru the engine. Is the OX66 carbed or EFI?
Purge your water system pumps, pour anti-freeze in bilge, down scups.

 

[catch22]

Speaking of anal....

I think it's best to run your boat, underway, for about 10 to 15 minutes after stabalizing/conditioning the fuel tanks. If you already pulled the boat, you can mix up a "cocktail" in a small portable tank, disconnect the motors fuel line and attach the portable. Also, drain the motors filter, and re-prime from the portable. This way you ensure only fresh, conditioned fuel remains in the motor, and filter housing.

I know it's not necesary, but I run an automotive, (Prestone) anti-freeze through the outboard. I do it right at the end of fogging, (motor thoroughly warmed up). Ususally takes a little less than a gallon untill I see color at the exhaust, (prop) so I know it's getting through the thermostats. Besides the fact that it leaves no doubts about any freezing, Prestone also has a lubricant in it, so I figure it can only help protect any internal surfaces. I use a short piece of garden hose with a funnel attached.
Wether you do this or not, I think it's very important to keep the outboard trimmed straight down, (as close as possible) durring storage. Not only so the motor drains, but to prevent any rain water that migh accumulate in the prop hub area from freezing.

I also like to run RV type anti-freeze through the washdown/livewell system, (pumps, hoses, etc). Same goes for any freshwater set-up.

 

[BobP]

Whoa, speaking of being anal ! I'm more of a "multitasking time-limited anal" type!

On another note, I could never see the reason of taking the batteries out of the boat, especially since it's a back breaking operation (in Gradys). I do see why the marinas want it done, but not for the others who like me keep the boat in the driveway at home.

Just open all the breakers back there, keep the selector swicthes in off, check the fluid and fully charge in the boat. Wipe clean and dry the top of the battery. Good time to check or remake the connectons.

No matter how cold it gets as long as charged, the battery is no better off in any other place and no risk of dropping in while hauling off the boat, nor dropping something out of your back!

I'm able to place the charger on, I will do it nor more once a month or so since I'm in the boat anyway doing projects and powering up the shore power system for lights. But if I wasn't able to do it, I'd just disconnect everything directly from the batt terminals, it will stay fine until spring.

What's up with the battery-out-of-boat thing ? (not why the marinas do it)

 

[catch22]

What's up with the battery-out-of-boat thing ? (not why the marinas do it)

From what I understand Bob, batteries can freeze. The lower the temps, the weaker the battery becomes and the more likely it will freeze... vicious circle. So, if it's practical, your better off storing them inside, say in a basement. It's easier to keep after charging too, just have to watch out for an ignition source because of the release of hydrogen gas. :shock:

But guess what.... I don't bother either. Like you, I leave them in the boat and charge them every month.

 

[Gman25]

Dont forget to drain the VST tank

2005 300 Marlin w/F250's