Winterizing Johnson v6

[gradyrod]

It's that time of year here in the Northeast where one needs to start thinking about winter storage-- and that also includes winterizing our engines. I never winterized my engine before (yard did it), but this year I decided to try it myself! I have many questions, and I hope the group will forgive my ignorance!

First: My enigne is a 1997 Johnson 175 v6 oceanrunner.

I figure to first run the engine up to temp at low idle with a garden hose to flush. I have a pair of earmuff style flush attachment, but water only goes in on one side of the ear muff. I wondered if this is ok to use or do I need an earmuff that feeds water from both sides?
Now, after running for 10- 15 minutes to flush, would I then switch to an antifreeze mixture? Is this necessary, and when should I begin to fog out the engine? I don't want to run out of antifreeze before the engine stalls out.

Next my biggest question is how do I attach the special oil, stabilizer, and gas soup that I will mix in my small 6 gallon tank to the fuel hose from the engine? I figure to attach directly to the tank, but what about the VRO oil line? I have heard that if I disconnect that line I can burn out the three chambered pump that mixes the oil and gas. This is where I could use some help!! Do I continue to draw oil from the VRO and not mix oil in my gas and stablilzer in the 6 gallon tank, or is there another way to do this by cutting off the VRO oil supply and mixing the oil in the 6 gallon tank? Do I run the engine until it stalls out from lack of fuel, or turn it off before that?

Thanks for any help here-- as you can see I'm pretty confused!!

Gradyrod
1985 Fisherman 204

 

[BobP]

Nonsense, fishing season is just beginning up here!

 

[gradyrod]

OK, Bob, you may be right...

about the Fall run, and I hope it's a good one this year!! But I am thinking about where to store, whether or not to buy a trailer, and want to figure out how to winterize and buy all the stuff I am going to need before it does get cold!! I stay in until the end of October, so that gives me a couple of months to get all my ducks in order !!

Hope all is well with you.

Rod

 

[Lainie J]

Winterize

There will be many different opinions on this subject. I have been doing my own for over 20 years. I have Yamaha fours strokes and a Johnson 175 2 stroke. Flush with the muffs for 10 minute or so, spray into carbs or air intakes while running, read the can. Take off each spark plug and spray some fogger in each cylinder, replace the plugs, turn engine over without starting. Replace lower unit oil and all filters. Remove battery and leave engine in the down position so it drains. I have never had any problems with any of my motors over the years due to winterization. I also live in the northeast.

 

[BobP]

In all seriousness, I would not go so far as you suggest.

Treat the fuel in the boat tank with Marine Stabil, don't be chinzy on mix.

Run motor so fuel enters lines and motor (10 minutes minimum).

Get a spray can of fogging oil any brand, and another can of the OMC fogging oil with the special shraeder fitting on hose, use it to fog motor via fitting on motor- looks like a car tire valve.

Run motor on ear muffs idle speed, use the OMC fog until cloud appears, , figure about 20 seconds or more and hold button.
Shut off engine quick, pull all plugs, spray into each cylinder a one second shot of fog from the other can, crank motor with key, one second, put existing plugs/wires back tight.

If you use the OMC fogger, it avoids the added work of removing the silencer to spray down the carb throats with the fog.

Come spring, it will fire right up - then run on muffs until exhaust is clear, then change plugs to new set.

That's it.

Stick around for bass season, it heats up as the water cools, and that is now!

 

[Lainie J]

Winterization

Treat the fuel with stabilizer before running for 10 minutes.

 

[sfc2113]

In all seriousness, I would not go so far as you suggest.

Treat the fuel in the boat tank with Marine Stabil, don't be chinzy on mix.

Run motor so fuel enters lines and motor (10 minutes minimum).

Get a spray can of fogging oil any brand, and another can of the OMC fogging oil with the special shraeder fitting on hose, use it to fog motor via fitting on motor- looks like a car tire valve.

Run motor on ear muffs idle speed, use the OMC fog until cloud appears, , figure about 20 seconds or more and hold button.
Shut off engine quick, pull all plugs, spray into each cylinder a one second shot of fog from the other can, crank motor with key, one second, put existing plugs/wires back tight.

If you use the OMC fogger, it avoids the added work of removing the silencer to spray down the carb throats with the fog.

Come spring, it will fire right up - then run on muffs until exhaust is clear, then change plugs to new set.

That's it.

Stick around for bass season, it heats up as the water cools, and that is now!

Dude, you got a good 2-months to go before putting that thing away, unlsess you dont go out for Stripers or Sea Bass.


Bobs got the right method for your engine. But I would add:
drain and refill your lower unit gear case, Remove the prop and grease the shaft put the prop back on. Store the engine straight up and down not tilted on the trailer bracket.

Also spray your battery cables with lith grease or coat with marine grease.
Remove the battery charge and store indoors on a wooden block or in a battery box. Make sur eyou get it load tested in the spring. Any shop will do it for free.

Good time to check the fuse panel too, remove any corosion from wiring and fuses and spray it with corrosion inhibitor. Beleive it or not, Sea foam deep creep does a great job at cleaning electrical connections and prevents corrosion.

One question Bob,

How much fuel should be in the tank 3/4 or full? I usually winterize with 3/4 tank w/stabil but was told to be full to make sure no room for moisture.