Yamaha 175hp 1995 175TXRT Replace Steering Bracket Assembly

[marki55e]

I have a 1995 Adventure 20 (208) which has lost the ability to steer. The steering bracket has corroded where it connects to the steering cables and is almost broken off. Has anyone had experience replacing the bracket? I am looking to find out how big of a job is it.
Since it is an older motor is it worth continuing to fix? I had a big investment as I had to replace the entire lower unit with a new one from SEI.

 

[DennisG01]

Can you post a few pics? That will help.

 

[enfish]

I've got your same motor. Do you have hydraulic or mechanical steering? I don't know if the steering arms are different between the steering types.

Our steering arm is a constant source of maintenance since it's cast steel and rusts. Our shop says it's not an easy job to change out, but I don't know the details of it. All I know is the shop recommends doing whatever it takes to prevent that bracket from getting past the point of no return, so our annual maintenance is to brush on chemical rust converter and hit it with Yamaha rattle can touch-up paint. Obviously too late for that in your situation.

 

[seasick]

I think there may be a few issues. What does "Lost the ability to steer" mean?
I agree that a picture will help a lot.
If the motor will not move side to side or even wiggle a bit when you try to turn it by grasping the motor itself, that could mean that the steering knuckle on the mid section is frozen or perhaps the steering tubs and/or steering cable is binding ( mechanical steering systems) .

 

[enfish]

Seasick, from what Marki described, the arm of part number 6 in the linked schematic below has corroded and is about to snap off (Yamaha P/N 6E5-42510-25-8D, or a different one, depending on the shaft length). This is a pretty common issue for this motor. But you're right, it's very possible the arm snapped off because the steering wheel was forced but something else in the motor is frozen.

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Looking at the schematic, I can now see why my shop says it's not an easy fix. Looks like a lot of disassembly required to pull the splined shaft out.

 

[seasick]

Since the OP stated that the fitting is very corroded, I take that to mean that he can see it. I don't think that without disassembly, he can see part 6. perhaps I am wrong. In any case disconnecting the steering arm and manually trying to rotate the motor should verify if the rod is binding. That is a common source for lube issues since a lot of owners don't grease that section because if you don't know where to look, the zerk fitting is easy to miss. It would be worth the effort for the OP to test rotation and if tight, pump grease into the zerk, rotate by hand and repeat and hope that helps. Taking that knuckle apart is a big job and a lot can go wrong

 

[enfish]

Since the OP stated that the fitting is very corroded, I take that to mean that he can see it. I don't think that without disassembly, he can see part 6. perhaps I am wrong. In any case disconnecting the steering arm and manually trying to rotate the motor should verify if the rod is binding. That is a common source for lube issues since a lot of owners don't grease that section because if you don't know where to look, the zerk fitting is easy to miss. It would be worth the effort for the OP to test rotation and if tight, pump grease into the zerk, rotate by hand and repeat and hope that helps. Taking that knuckle apart is a big job and a lot can go wrong

Yes you can see it. That tongue that sticks out on top of #6 is the steering tiller external to the motor. I have his same motor and I know exactly what he’s talking about. It’s a constant maintenance part for me. The tongue is cast steel, and rusts like crazy. If that’s corroded through and about to snap off, no steering is possible.

Edit: this is a photo I found on the internet showing the whole assembly. It’s the arm on top that the OP says is broken.

 

[glacierbaze]

I had the same problem on a 200 Yamaha with mechanical steering. Got to the point where I was afraid the connection would fail, so I moved the connection back to the second hole, which you can see in the diagram , without any noticeable increase in steering effort. Yours may be rusty beyond that simple fix.
I used a flat scraper bar, and peeled all the layers of rust off before I started treating mine. It was only half as thick as when I started, but it was still a substantial chunk of steel. Sort of like a rusty trailer U bolt, that you think could fail any moment, but is still quite strong when you cut through it with a grinder.

 

[DennisG01]

With enfish's picture (thanks) and Mark's description of it failing where the cables attach... it looks like it might be accessible enough to weld a new tab on?

 

[seasick]

Yes you can see it. That tongue that sticks out on top of #6 is the steering tiller external to the motor. I have his same motor and I know exactly what he’s talking about. It’s a constant maintenance part for me. The tongue is cast steel, and rusts like crazy. If that’s corroded through and about to snap off, no steering is possible.

Edit: this is a photo I found on the internet showing the whole assembly. It’s the arm on top that the OP says is broken.
View attachment 27953

Yes it is breaks off, no steering but a crusty bracket does not explain "loss of ability to steer". I still need the OP to explain what he means

 

[glacierbaze]

If not yet completely disjoined, then maybe "loss of confidence, no longer seaworthy" is an easier explanation.
I believe the powerhead has to come off to replace #6, but it could possibly be welded, depending on condition. You couldn't exert enough pressure from the wheel to break that part off with the cable, but you could snap a badly rusted connection.

 

[seasick]

I see that the OP has not posted on this thread since the original post. So.. Moving on

 

[marki55e]

Thanks everyone for your replies. The motor does pivot freely side to side. As you have said that is the correct part. The part is rusted beyond the point of repair which made it extremely hard to turn the wheel without helping by pushing the motor also.
Since it is a very big job to disassemble everything it is probably a loss.

 

[DennisG01]

The motor does pivot freely side to side. The part is rusted beyond the point of repair which made it extremely hard to turn the wheel without helping by pushing the motor also.

Those two statements sound contradictory?

 

[marki55e]

Those two statements sound contradictory?

 

[marki55e]

Clarification. The motor can pivot fine, the rusted/broken part on the steering assembly that connects to the steering cables is jammed up and does not move much. It is preventing movement.

 

[SkunkBoat]

I have done that project myself on a Suzuki DF140. Not easy but not rocket science. I am not a mechanic.

Got the parts on Boats.net
You need a hoist. Remove cables and wires and fuel line. remove the 4 bolts that hold shock mounts. hang the rest of the motor in the air.
In my case I snapped a bolt on the lower unit shock mount cover. had to get a machine shop to get it out.
Also had to hammer off the part that goes on the splines on the bottom of the swivel shaft.
Replaced that and the bushings and cleaned and sanded the swivel shaft/arm.
There are some pix in this thread on wellcraftv20.com http://www.wellcraftv20.com/community/showthread.php?t=21520

That part is the only ferrous part of every outboard. Often the grease stops reaching the upper bushing and the steering becomes crazy tight.
As your motor gets older, you should disconnect the steering rod and test the ease of swinging the motors. It should be really easy to turn the motors with your hand when the steering rod is disconnected.
Hydraulic steering can hide the problem for a long time.

On my yammie ox66s I drilled and tapped zerk fittings into the top bushing area. Sprayed theshitoutofit with WD40 until it swung like butter. Then re-greased.

 

[glacierbaze]

The flat tiller extension on the top of Part #6 does not move independently, therefore, it cannot get jammed up. Think of it as a part welded to the block. It has 2 hole locations to attach either the steering cables, or the steering ram. If the problem lies with either the cable, or the ram, consider yourself lucky.
If part #6 wiggles at all, then you have a serious problem that I have never seen.

 

[SkunkBoat]

Clarification. The motor can pivot fine, the rusted/broken part on the steering assembly that connects to the steering cables is jammed up and does not move much. It is preventing movement.

I'm still confused by the OPs description of the problem. Pictures would help.
We may be mixing up "pivot" (up/down) with "steer"???
We are assuming manual steering and a "cable".

The steering cable connects thru the "pivot tube". The pivot tube has nothing to do with steering. Pivot refers to up/down. The motor pivots up/down.
The motor swivels left/right (Steers)

There is only one steering cable. Not "cables". Do you mean "hoses"? If you mean hoses then we need to know that.
The steering cable does not connect directly to the tiller arm (swivel bracket part#6).
We are identifying the tiller arm as the rusted part. Is there a stainless steel rod connected to the rusted part?

These questions must be answered to understand your problem;

Disconnect the steering cable by removing the stainless steel rod from the rusted tiller.
Can you now swing the motor left/right easily by hand?

Can you now turn the wheel left/right easily and the steering cable moves in/out of the pivot tube?

 

[DennisG01]

Thanks for starting to clarify it, Enfish, but it's still a little confusing. And the reason I'm asking again is that it sounds like (and I hope it's the case for your sake!) that the issue is really with the attachment between the cables and the steering arm.

How did you verify that the motor swings (turns left and right) freely? Logically, you would have had to disconnect the cables and then moved the engine by hand. As noted above, the steering arm will move along with the engine so the majority of the steering arm piece is just fine.

Pictures would help.