Last night after sitting at anchor for a few hours I went to start my stbd motor (93 yamaha 200) and nothing happened! No gauge display, trim doesnt work, not cranking over or anything. The port motor started up fine and normal. Is there a fuse somewhere that I blew? I have no idea where a main fuse like that would be on this boat. Its a 93 Grady White Sailfish, need to get this motor running tonight!!!!!!! Help Please!!!!
Yamaha Dead!
- Thread starter cwrisso
- Start date
I have not touched my previous 92 225 Yamaha in over ten years, but I believe there is a fuse on your outboard engine. If memory serves me correctly, it is on the stbd. side of the engine block, a few inches above where the shift and throttle cables conncect to the engine. I believe the wiring harness from the dash enters under the plastic cover and there is a fuse in the same area. On the other hand it may be part of the wiring harness in the same area.
I would start by looking here:
http://www.yamaha-motor.com/outboard/parts/home.aspx
I would start by looking here:
http://www.yamaha-motor.com/outboard/parts/home.aspx
do you have separate batteries for each engine? If so, check the terminal connections. I assume both throttles were in the neutral position.
A fuse should not affect engine, gauges, AND trim motor. Trim motor should be a separate fuse. So it sounds more like a battery issue
A fuse should not affect engine, gauges, AND trim motor. Trim motor should be a separate fuse. So it sounds more like a battery issue
Does your trim switch on the motor work? If so, then the issue lies with the engine harnessing. Check either one of these two in-line fuse holders under the helm...
Yellow is ignition power...
The fuse may not be blown, it just may not be making good connection. I know we talked about this on THT, if you have power to the trim switch on the motor, than your problem lies within the engine harnessing.
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Yellow is ignition power...
The fuse may not be blown, it just may not be making good connection. I know we talked about this on THT, if you have power to the trim switch on the motor, than your problem lies within the engine harnessing.
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Proline Guy... you are one stand up boater. I appreciate the time you take to help out people here. Kudos to you :wink:
Smokey,
Thank you very much. That is my goal. I've been building boats at the OEM level now for 16 years. Have always admired GWs (although I don't agree with some things they do), in fact, in my position as Production Engineer with PL, when we do something new, or are contemplating it, I look at GW to see if they've done that, and if so, how they did it.
I'm laid off now, so obviously have some time. Might as well put my knowledge to good use...
BTW, love your area! And those squaws in Cherokee make the best breakfast in the world!
Thank you very much. That is my goal. I've been building boats at the OEM level now for 16 years. Have always admired GWs (although I don't agree with some things they do), in fact, in my position as Production Engineer with PL, when we do something new, or are contemplating it, I look at GW to see if they've done that, and if so, how they did it.
I'm laid off now, so obviously have some time. Might as well put my knowledge to good use...
BTW, love your area! And those squaws in Cherokee make the best breakfast in the world!
Thanks for all the help guys, figured out the problem last night. It seemed to be just that the battery was run down so low that it wouldent even buzz when the key got turned on, let alone crank over the engine. I was confused because I always thought that having both battery switches on "both" would make everything on the same circuit. Now I'm a little confused about how the engines/batteries are wired up... anyone have some insight? Thanks again,
Chris
Chris
I see you've figured out the problem but another thing to look at if you have a "dead" engine is the kill-switch.cwrisso said:
cwrisso said:
Not a good idea to run on "both". If one battery is weak, it will "pull" the other battery down. It's ok to run on "both" temporarily, to charge both batteries, but don't leave it like that all the time.
Strikezone said:
Thought the same thing, but I think the engine will still crank without the "kill-switch"... it just won't fire up, (no spark).
Parthery
GreatGrady Captain
On mine, if the kill switch tether is removed and you turn the key to the start position, it won't crank. You will, however, be able to test the alarm....