Confusing Leak in Cabin of '95 Sailfish 272
- Thread starter Jonah
- Start date
Anytime - you're welcome! As I sit here, watching snow start to fall, thinking of you down there with that beautiful, aqua-blue colored water... :roll:
Legend
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One other place to check is the railings and hardtop mounts. My hardtop mounts needed to be resealed once. We had the same wet areas as you and it turned out the water was leaking at the mounts and then running across the ceiling liner and then dripping down. it is a tough one to get conclusive data without doing a lot of dismantling. Good luck
Legend, thanks very much. I'll look into that too. I am finding some loose screws in the rub-rail (and one that pulled out all the way), so I am hopeful that I've found the problem. But I'll look at the hard-top mounts as well.
Thanks again everyone.
After removing the center insert of the vinyl rub-rail, I was able to find the leak quite easily. I propped up a hose to flow right into the center channel, and within seconds there was water coming into the cabin, through the screw holes. (They were even more exposed without the vinyl insert.)
The area where I'd been seeing the most leaking has about twice as many screws per foot as the rest of the rub-rail, suggesting that there was a problem here before. I can see that the old, unused screw holes have been filled with silicone, but many of the existing screws are loose enough that water is still getting in through them. There also appear to be a few rivets thrown into the mix. One rivet is missing the back-half, which basically created a little tube for the water to flow right through!
I picked up some Boat Life "Life Seal" that I'll use to re-set the screws (all of them), and fill in the half-rivet. A few screws are bent, so I'll be replacing those of course. I worry that the holes of the bent screws may be partially stripped, but we'll see when I get to them. Even if I have to skip a few screws and just fill in the holes, there will definitely be enough screws to hold the rail in place.
After removing the center insert of the vinyl rub-rail, I was able to find the leak quite easily. I propped up a hose to flow right into the center channel, and within seconds there was water coming into the cabin, through the screw holes. (They were even more exposed without the vinyl insert.)
The area where I'd been seeing the most leaking has about twice as many screws per foot as the rest of the rub-rail, suggesting that there was a problem here before. I can see that the old, unused screw holes have been filled with silicone, but many of the existing screws are loose enough that water is still getting in through them. There also appear to be a few rivets thrown into the mix. One rivet is missing the back-half, which basically created a little tube for the water to flow right through!
I picked up some Boat Life "Life Seal" that I'll use to re-set the screws (all of them), and fill in the half-rivet. A few screws are bent, so I'll be replacing those of course. I worry that the holes of the bent screws may be partially stripped, but we'll see when I get to them. Even if I have to skip a few screws and just fill in the holes, there will definitely be enough screws to hold the rail in place.
Hey, good deal! It's actually kinda "nice" to find the problem, right! Stripped (enlarged) screw holes... you may be able to just use the next size larger screw, too.
Thanks again everyone.
I took the rub-rail off the port side (sections at a time) and replaced all the bent screws—at least 10. I also replaced a few loosely-fitting screws with one size up (#10, instead of #8). For every screw, I put a dab of Life Seal in the hole of the Fiberglass, and also in the hole of the rub rail. Then, just for good measure, I put a thin bead of silicone in the upper corner of the rub-rail and the hull. Tedious, but should work!
Before that, once the rub rail was off, I also re-sealed the original screws and rivets beneath the rub rail. I just used a layer of Life Seal, but that should certainly stop any water from passing through those holes. Looks like this had been done once before, years ago, with clear silicone.
I so enjoyed the Life Seal that I kept going and re-sealed (just around the edges) the hard top mounts and the bow-rail mounts. Excited to enjoy a very dry cabin during the next rainstorm.
I don’t have a trailer and couldn’t easily beach it, so you need to picture me leaning over the gunwales, sometimes between the gunwale and bow rail, for hours on end. My lower back is still hurting, and also my chest from leaning over hard corners. But I needed to get the job done ...
I took the rub-rail off the port side (sections at a time) and replaced all the bent screws—at least 10. I also replaced a few loosely-fitting screws with one size up (#10, instead of #8). For every screw, I put a dab of Life Seal in the hole of the Fiberglass, and also in the hole of the rub rail. Then, just for good measure, I put a thin bead of silicone in the upper corner of the rub-rail and the hull. Tedious, but should work!
Before that, once the rub rail was off, I also re-sealed the original screws and rivets beneath the rub rail. I just used a layer of Life Seal, but that should certainly stop any water from passing through those holes. Looks like this had been done once before, years ago, with clear silicone.
I so enjoyed the Life Seal that I kept going and re-sealed (just around the edges) the hard top mounts and the bow-rail mounts. Excited to enjoy a very dry cabin during the next rainstorm.
I don’t have a trailer and couldn’t easily beach it, so you need to picture me leaning over the gunwales, sometimes between the gunwale and bow rail, for hours on end. My lower back is still hurting, and also my chest from leaning over hard corners. But I needed to get the job done ...
I can totally picture you doing that... mainly because I am familiar with those types of positions, myself... unfortunately 
FYI, that little bead of sealant around the hard top mounts, etc... it certainly can't hurt to do that, but just be aware that it won't last long. It never does, regardless of what type of sealant gets used. You might get a few years out of it, but it will slowly start to lift and peel away. But, still is better than nothing.
FYI, that little bead of sealant around the hard top mounts, etc... it certainly can't hurt to do that, but just be aware that it won't last long. It never does, regardless of what type of sealant gets used. You might get a few years out of it, but it will slowly start to lift and peel away. But, still is better than nothing.
ROBERTH
GreatGrady Captain
Just some feedback to the forum for others benefits....
Last weekend, I remove the starboard side rub rail and mostly all screws were pretty tight. A couple were a bit loose and 3 of them heads stripped off trying to remove them, so had to drill heads off and use the vise grips to pull out what was left. All in all, replaced and tighted any bad screws, cleaned the rubrail and side (Was very nasty from so many years of dirt) and resealed. Came out really good. The other side I did last year.
I found that the Interlux 355 I use to clean the older rub rails did a great job cleaning down to the blue color, but I ran out and found it is no longer available. So I did some experimenting and found that either Laquer Thinner or Xylol/Xylene will do the same job, so saved there as this removes all dirt/grime and any wax or coatings and restores the rubber. Then it can be recoated with a good rubber treatment.
In effort to find/fix all the leaks I have been having in last couple years, now focus to reseal the side windows as have been getting some water into the cabin through them also on our nasty heavy seas days.
So I ordered the rubber window channel from Marine Glass Specialties (George Rietheimer). George explained what I needed and how to install it. The worst part of this was cutting out the drain channels in the bottom tracks, but it wasn't that bad of a job. Now the windows seal nicely around the glass and was able to clean out the channel drain holes so they can weep out the water. They were mostly clogged, some completely.
If you find you need this window channel, I ordered 24' for both side windows on my model boat and have a little left over, but that was the perfect quantity as they come in 8' sections.
Hoping now, I have found and fixed all my leaks! :mrgreen:
Last weekend, I remove the starboard side rub rail and mostly all screws were pretty tight. A couple were a bit loose and 3 of them heads stripped off trying to remove them, so had to drill heads off and use the vise grips to pull out what was left. All in all, replaced and tighted any bad screws, cleaned the rubrail and side (Was very nasty from so many years of dirt) and resealed. Came out really good. The other side I did last year.
I found that the Interlux 355 I use to clean the older rub rails did a great job cleaning down to the blue color, but I ran out and found it is no longer available. So I did some experimenting and found that either Laquer Thinner or Xylol/Xylene will do the same job, so saved there as this removes all dirt/grime and any wax or coatings and restores the rubber. Then it can be recoated with a good rubber treatment.
In effort to find/fix all the leaks I have been having in last couple years, now focus to reseal the side windows as have been getting some water into the cabin through them also on our nasty heavy seas days.
So I ordered the rubber window channel from Marine Glass Specialties (George Rietheimer). George explained what I needed and how to install it. The worst part of this was cutting out the drain channels in the bottom tracks, but it wasn't that bad of a job. Now the windows seal nicely around the glass and was able to clean out the channel drain holes so they can weep out the water. They were mostly clogged, some completely.
If you find you need this window channel, I ordered 24' for both side windows on my model boat and have a little left over, but that was the perfect quantity as they come in 8' sections.
Hoping now, I have found and fixed all my leaks! :mrgreen:
Roberth,
Thanks for posting this. Is it easy to describe (or do you know of any diagrams) what you're referring to with the drain channels in the bottom tracks? I'd like to check this on my windows, too.
Thanks!
Thanks for posting this. Is it easy to describe (or do you know of any diagrams) what you're referring to with the drain channels in the bottom tracks? I'd like to check this on my windows, too.
Thanks!
ROBERTH
GreatGrady Captain
Hi Jonah, actually it is quite simple. Under the bottom edge of the aluminum framework, if you can position yourself such that you can look underneath, you will see some slots that are cut into the frame. These are drain slots. You might also be able to feel underneath and find them as well.
Since the original rubber trim is so brittle, it is not possible to clean out the drains very well since can't remove the rubber without it breaking it up. So what I found was during removal, the drains were clogged up from the top side mostly, however, if you use a pocket knife type took, you might be able to slide it up into the channel from the bottom and slide it back and forth and up to the rubber and clear it out, then spray with a hose and try to loosen up any foreign matter and clear the drains if you aren't ready to replace the rubber.
Hope this makes sense.
I also checked the silicone seal around the outside perimeter of the framework and it is in perfect shape. Had leaks around this area a couple years ago.
Since the original rubber trim is so brittle, it is not possible to clean out the drains very well since can't remove the rubber without it breaking it up. So what I found was during removal, the drains were clogged up from the top side mostly, however, if you use a pocket knife type took, you might be able to slide it up into the channel from the bottom and slide it back and forth and up to the rubber and clear it out, then spray with a hose and try to loosen up any foreign matter and clear the drains if you aren't ready to replace the rubber.
Hope this makes sense.
I also checked the silicone seal around the outside perimeter of the framework and it is in perfect shape. Had leaks around this area a couple years ago.
Fishtales
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I'd check all the usual suspects:
- bow rail mounts
- hard top frame mount points
- window frames
- hull to deck rub rail connection
I'd be inclined to go after the windows first and then bow rail mounts.
- bow rail mounts
- hard top frame mount points
- window frames
- hull to deck rub rail connection
I'd be inclined to go after the windows first and then bow rail mounts.
I think I am having the same problem on my '94 Adventure. Leak in same place in the cabin and it is even worse when the mooring cover is on (channels all the water right down on top of the rub rail. I already notice the rail is lose in spots. Going to be tackling this tomorrow before I get back out on the Blue. Did you remove both the channel AND the insert, or just the round insert and reseal? I was thinking as long as I am getting dirty to pull everything off, clean and reseal and wanted to get your opinion. Also, did this fix your problem and is it still dry in the cabin? Thanks in advance!!!!