Fixing rusty balljoint on end of seacock pushrod
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Fishtales
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Dealer should stock as well. When I did mine, the thread size was different. I could have ordered new push rods, but then simply removed the top end ball and those threads fit the new clevis pin version. I simply installed the ball end on the other end (wasn't right thread but muscled them on). All good and I didn't have to buy the new push rods.
tgr23 said:
Here is a picture of my 228 bilge. When my connections rusted out 10 years ago I went with the fork style connection. They've been flawless ever since.
Part number for the new cleves connector is HDWR0531. Sadly Fishtales post came after I ordered the part without the rod and I have the same thread pitch miss match he had. Hopefully once I get the ball off the other end I can thread the new connector there like he did.
Fishtales
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sorry for being late...
the good thing is if it doesn't work out, you can order the new rods (I believe the same thread pitch on both ends now) and new ball ends. The only thing you'll be out is the ball ends. I did it two years ago and the balls have held up fine. My advice is to put the ball end on first and then screw the assembly into the Y piece when that is installed.
the good thing is if it doesn't work out, you can order the new rods (I believe the same thread pitch on both ends now) and new ball ends. The only thing you'll be out is the ball ends. I did it two years ago and the balls have held up fine. My advice is to put the ball end on first and then screw the assembly into the Y piece when that is installed.
This is the second time I had to do the job. I'm glad I read the thread. I ordered the replacement parts (clevis style) from Grady. The next day they showed up at my doorstep. Defiantly a better solution than the ball joint. I'm confident it'll be the last time I have to do it.
Thank you!!!!
Thank you!!!!
One more piece of info - my steel ball joints let go so I went to McMaster. The below part is a perfect fit and the pair was $23 delivered.
6071K48 Clevis Rod End, 316 Stainless Steel, 5/16"-24 Thread, 2-1/4" Shank Center Length
6071K48 Clevis Rod End, 316 Stainless Steel, 5/16"-24 Thread, 2-1/4" Shank Center Length
Both of the ball joints on my 2003 330 went within 1 year of each other, just replaced the second with the McMaster clevis pin style. As described by others, took the arm of the seacock to make the job easier.
tgr23 said:
I contacted Grady customer service in NC back in 2013 when my 2000 Seafarer 228G seacock arm ball joints rusted out. They let me know that the arms/rods they now used were fully stainless and they no longer incorporated the ball joint method of attachment to seacock lever. The local Grady dealership here didn't have any in stock and apparently only bring in parts a few times per year ( horrible service here) so it was going to take a couple months to get them in via Grady dealer plus they were crazy expensive. So....Grady customer service in NC then let me know that the OEM arms were from TH Marine and I could get them there. I ordered them from TH Marine via my local marine shop that purchases from TH Marine and I had them in a few days. Installed a few days after that!
Here are the Seacock arms in various different sizes on TH Marine's website. Photos included - they come in different lengths. Grady cust service told me what length for my 228G, I think it was 18.5" ( or just measure old ones and match length)
http://thmarine.com/seacock-remote-operation-arm
While you're down there attaching new ends to those handles, I recommend replacing the drain plug in your seacocks with a grease fitting, to keep those moving easily. Pump the grease in with the valve closed, or it will go into your system.