Livewell Pump Installation Question

HBSteve

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We have a 2005 Sailfish 282. The boat came with a Shurflo Bait Centry 1100 which screwed straight into the seacock. The Shurflo just died so I purchased the Jabsco Cyclone as a replacement. The Shurflo is all plastic and is very light. The Jabsco is 7.5 lbs and has a bulkhead mounting bracket. My question is...Can I just mount the heavier Jabsco directly onto the seacock or should I mount it to a bulkhead? Installing it directly into the seacock would make the effort much easier but it would be free standing. I'm wondering if the heavier pump could cause damage to the seacock or the pump. What do you think ?
 

ocnslr

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Since you asked, you must have some concern about that much weight not being braced and only held by the seacock.

I share your concern. I would either get a replacement pump that you are comfortable mounting on the seacock, or mount the heavier pump on a bulkhead and run an inlet hose from the seacock to the pump.

Brian
 

DennisG01

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Personally, I don't like ANYTHING attached to a seacock/thru-hull. It's trouble waiting to happen. It becomes all to easy to break it off. I don't think the seacock would break so you'd at least be able to close it. But one wrong step or one thing that gets twisted around the pump and it wouldn't take much to break it off. Now that the new pump you have is heavier... no way. Mount it out of the way and just run the hose to it -- which is still a very easy job.
 

HBSteve

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Yes, you both confirmed it. Although a bit more work, the bulkhead mount is the quality solution. Thank You.......
 

DennisG01

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Good luck with the install, Steve. Post back if you have any questions. Remember to double clamp and orient the wormscrews 180* from each other. If there's any doubt at all about the condition of the clamps... replace with new.
 

HBSteve

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Just finished. It's never as fast as you plan for. The bulkhead mount and the seacock were so close that it took a few attempts to connect them without kinking the hose. But it's all in and double clamped all the way around. Using the Jabsco Cyclone (and $90 worth of brass fittings and hose) ended up costing twice what the Shurflo Bait Sentry replacement would have been. But I have to say the Jabsco is one deluxe pump; quiet, stainless, will last way longer and it can really move the water. The boat is better off for it.
 

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Hi...glad I came across this thread...I just had someone install a new Rule livewell pump on my '95 Adventure 208...I was aghast when I realized he screwed it directly to the seacock never having seen that type of installation before...I always ran a hose from seacock to the pump which I screw mounted to a nearby surface. But now I see it works either way...little or no pressure on the seacock by the light Rule pump...and nothing leaking. Thanks...Ralph
 

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I am glad it worked out. Personally I have my pump connected directly to the seacock and it has not been an issue ( 12 years old hull). I do use the lighter pump though. There are two thoughts on the install. Direct connect reduces the number of places that can leak. Hose connection may reduce stress on the fitting for heavier pumps. One thing to bear in mind is that many of those pumps are not self priming and if they are mounted too high in the bilge, they may not be able to draw water. Also if you add a low spot in the plumbing ( for example a downward bend/loop in the hose) you will have water that doesn't drain when the boat is stored on land and might be subject to freezing if you store in cold climates.
 

DennisG01

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That's a good point about making sure there are no low spots in the hose. On a side note, even if there are no low spots, the pump still may not completely self drain and may trap some water inside it. I just winterized my boat and when doing the washdown I first ran the pump till no more water came out the hose connection. I was on the trailer with the seacock open. The boat had probably been on the trailer for a good 3 hours before I did this. A nice rush of water was still expelled from the hose connection topsides. I then removed the hose from the seacock and stuck in a bottle of pink. I again turned on the pump and there was about 6oz of CLEAR water that came out before the pink stuff.
 

seasick

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DennisG01 said:
That's a good point about making sure there are no low spots in the hose. On a side note, even if there are no low spots, the pump still may not completely self drain and may trap some water inside it. I just winterized my boat and when doing the washdown I first ran the pump till no more water came out the hose connection. I was on the trailer with the seacock open. The boat had probably been on the trailer for a good 3 hours before I did this. A nice rush of water was still expelled from the hose connection topsides. I then removed the hose from the seacock and stuck in a bottle of pink. I again turned on the pump and there was about 6oz of CLEAR water that came out before the pink stuff.
Good point. I also make sure that the pump is run 'dry' before the winter season with the seacock open and the boat on land. I unscrew the inlet and outlet connections and make sure there is no water in the plumbing
 

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While direct connect is simple, it does not allow for a pre filter. Last season, I added a 2nd shurflo problaster so I could dedicate the Shurflo bait pump for the livewell and have on demand pressure for washdown. I added the prefilter inline after the thru hull and before the split off to both pumps. This does 2 things:
1. Ensures less wear/damage to pumps due to prefilter and allows visibility to the contamination if any.
2. No longer have to use the 3 way to switch useage between livewell and washdown.

So far, this was a great upgrade. I have also found some sea grass and some sand particles in the prefilter.

There is a lot of feedback online about those bait pumps going out quite often so I stayed with the Shurflo's as the ones' I replaced were original and lasted over 20 years so hoping they will last another 20. Still in use is the original Shurflo fresh water pump which is truely amazing to me with all the pumps I hear getting replaced.

Also, I made sure the wiring to the pumps was heavy gauge marine tinned to ensure full voltage/amperage as also hear that is death of lots of the pumps not getting enough and overheating as result.

I have heard the Jabsco's are good also!

Just my .02. :mrgreen:
 

DennisG01

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seasick said:
I also make sure that the pump is run 'dry' before the winter season with the seacock open and the boat on land. I unscrew the inlet and outlet connections and make sure there is no water in the plumbing

That's another excellent way to ensure the pump (or line) doesn't freeze. Sometimes people get caught up in the "best" way to do things, when in reality, there is more than one "best" way. As long it's a good method, "best" is more determined by what works "best" for the individual.
 

DennisG01

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Robert - excellent point about the pre-filter. I use one, too - can't believe I forgot to mention that point! :-|

+1 on the tinned marine wire. And quality crimp connectors. Avoid soldering as just a little too much can actually make the connection fail over time from vibration.
 

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Oh yeah, forgot to mention. I also put in a 3 way tee fitting with extra hose and shut off valve. I can use this hose to pull out of bilge, stick into a gallon jug of pink stuff and suck it in and winterize. That worked great and was so easy to winterize, I amazed myself! Of course, that does not take a lot sometimes! :mrgreen:

Adding pic of prefilter with Pink stuff....
 

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DennisG01

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That's funny you mention that, Robert. I was just talking to my brother a few days ago about doing just that (3-way valve). I have really easy access to my seacock, though - so it would be more of just a 'neat' thing to do. But I like it!
 

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Yeah, for some it is easy enough. For me, it was way worth it in the end. The location of mine was I guess simple enough, but mostly had to get down on my knees, imaging wet deck sliding in 4' seas, sticking my arm and half my head in the back access hatch, try not to break off my head at the neck and attempt to turn this thing. When it was under pressure, it did not want to turn easy or at all. Get back up, turn off the pump and relieve the pressure, crawl back down in there and FIX IT! Rinse bloody or muddy deck down, do it all over again so the bait can stay alive.

Now, just push a switch to ON at the helm, smile real big and go back to fishing, rinsing, etc.

I also can focus on specific pumps for specific task. Higher pressure pump for washdown and live well version for long running time.

Before, it was the livewell type pump doing both duties. Now I have a lot more pressure to washdown stubborn stains.

In the end, there are more benefits doing it this way. The negative was the initial cost of new pump, fittings, hoses, clamps, etc.
Running the new wires and switch on helm was not that difficult.