Been putting this off for several seasons. I just searched and was surprised there isn't more activity on this subject. Please advise best brand of primer and top coat. Also a good procedure, prep, etc. I'm reading that the zinc primer should be tacky when applying the top coat. Wives-tale or truth? Thanks guys!
Painting OX66 lower units
- Thread starter Tucker
- Start date
Check your state laws. Some primers were banned. Zinc Chromate is one. It worked well but was toxic to the environment. You can't buy it or have it shipped to NY for example
I have tried several treatments for anti fouling on my lower unit and haven't found one that works well. Last two seasons I tried Alumacoat (sp?) so so.
Before that the clear Trilux. It did nothing.
There are a couple of treatments made for aluminum but I am interested in seeing if anyone has tried the newer non copper anti fouling paints. Petitt Hydorcoat SR for one. Interlux has a similar product.
Forget about color matching, that's not going to happen,
This year I will use the Alumacoat again since I have it and see what others report on in the fall
I have tried several treatments for anti fouling on my lower unit and haven't found one that works well. Last two seasons I tried Alumacoat (sp?) so so.
Before that the clear Trilux. It did nothing.
There are a couple of treatments made for aluminum but I am interested in seeing if anyone has tried the newer non copper anti fouling paints. Petitt Hydorcoat SR for one. Interlux has a similar product.
Forget about color matching, that's not going to happen,
This year I will use the Alumacoat again since I have it and see what others report on in the fall
It sounds like you are looking for advice on "pretty" paint, as opposed to anti-fouling? That's interesting to hear about Zinc-Chromate - I didn't know that. It appears that it's now a Zinc-phosphate primer.
As far as painting for "prettiness", you generally need to do re-coats within a short time period (1 hour, for example) or wait till it fully cures which might be a few days. The directions on the can will tell you. I've used Mercury primer/paint with nice results - also Moeller. It may not matter, but I've always used the same brand primer and paint. I've always thought it was a good idea to stay in the same "family", so to speak.
For antifouling... I "think" the Pettit SR still has something in it that makes it not recommended for aluminum (or any metal). I do use the Pettit Eco and am very happy with that. I use that on the hull and the lower unit. It makes it easy as I only need one antifouling paint and don't need to leave that 1" gap, either.
As far as painting for "prettiness", you generally need to do re-coats within a short time period (1 hour, for example) or wait till it fully cures which might be a few days. The directions on the can will tell you. I've used Mercury primer/paint with nice results - also Moeller. It may not matter, but I've always used the same brand primer and paint. I've always thought it was a good idea to stay in the same "family", so to speak.
For antifouling... I "think" the Pettit SR still has something in it that makes it not recommended for aluminum (or any metal). I do use the Pettit Eco and am very happy with that. I use that on the hull and the lower unit. It makes it easy as I only need one antifouling paint and don't need to leave that 1" gap, either.
I am doing mine tomorrow. I have 1995 Johnson's that are in pretty good shape (other than the covers). I removed all the decals from the covers, aggressively sanded a lot of pits and chips without exposing the raw glass, re-sanded with 120 and 220 grit. I shot them with sandable primer with filler and then wet sanded at 400. I reshot them with primer and sanded with 1000 grit. I painted them with white outboard motor paint I purchased from Mesco.
Original
Prep...
Primer...
Paint...
My custom OEM-like decals to match the new color scheme of the boat and name decals...
Since my lower units are in good shape my plan is to degrease them (done), scuff them with 400 grit paper and shoot them with the same paint I used for the covers. There are few spots that will need to be primed but, I don't expect it to be too much. Since my units stay out of the water I should be good to go for a long while. At least that is the plan.
I am by no means a painter so, we will see how long all of this holds up.
Good luck!
Original
Prep...
Primer...
Paint...
My custom OEM-like decals to match the new color scheme of the boat and name decals...
Since my lower units are in good shape my plan is to degrease them (done), scuff them with 400 grit paper and shoot them with the same paint I used for the covers. There are few spots that will need to be primed but, I don't expect it to be too much. Since my units stay out of the water I should be good to go for a long while. At least that is the plan.
I am by no means a painter so, we will see how long all of this holds up.
Good luck!
Attachments
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Motor Cover Original Condition.jpg -
Motor Cover Prep A.jpg -
Motor Cover Primer 2a.jpg -
Motor Cover Paint 2a.jpg -
Motor Cover Decals A.jpg
The best matching paint (aside from have a body shop mix it) for an OX66 I found was the old Tempo brand. They have since been bought out by Moeller and I think the formula changed as their version doesn't match nearly as well.
This was after I shot the mids and lowers of my '98 225s with Moeller. Way too blue...
[
I also tried the high dollar Colorite paint that is what Yamaha recommended. It was garbage.
Lastly, I have an old 25 Yamaha that I'm working on too. For that one, I took the cowling to the local Advance Auto and picked the closest matching Duplicolor spray bomb. The cap from the can is REALLY close so we'll see how the actual paint turns out. I would go this route if I were you.
This was after I shot the mids and lowers of my '98 225s with Moeller. Way too blue...
[
I also tried the high dollar Colorite paint that is what Yamaha recommended. It was garbage.
Lastly, I have an old 25 Yamaha that I'm working on too. For that one, I took the cowling to the local Advance Auto and picked the closest matching Duplicolor spray bomb. The cap from the can is REALLY close so we'll see how the actual paint turns out. I would go this route if I were you.
gw204 said:The best matching paint (aside from have a body shop mix it) for an OX66 I found was the old Tempo brand. They have since been bought out by Moeller and I think the formula changed as their version doesn't match nearly as well.
This was after I shot the mids and lowers of my '98 225s with Moeller. Way too blue...
[
I also tried the high dollar Colorite paint that is what Yamaha recommended. It was garbage.
Lastly, I have an old 25 Yamaha that I'm working on too. For that one, I took the cowling to the local Advance Auto and picked the closest matching Duplicolor spray bomb. The cap from the can is REALLY close so we'll see how the actual paint turns out. I would go this route if I were you.
Looks very nice. I am not sure if the original post was about repainting in general or an anti-fouling paint. I have used both but in my area barnacles love the motor bracket and tilt areas so I use products that are supposed to reduce growth. None work really well.
DennisG01 said:
Dennis, as always you are keeping me honest! I was incorrect, the SR is not recommended for aluminum, ECO is.
Here is a link to the data on various Pettit paints for metals
http://www.pettitpaint.com/fileshare/pr ... Metals.pdf
Thanks Brian, especially about the factory recommended Colorite. The stuff is extremely expensive and I was just getting ready to place an order! How did you save the red stripe, mask it? Honestly, from the pic the color doesn't look all that bad! Wonder if the transition would be smoother if you would have painted the lower cowling? The paint is really year specific and it almost looks like it's the color of the later model Yams. Heck it even looks like you removed/or masked the LU bolts. Please be sure to post how the Duplicolor turns out and the exact color. Did you clear coat? I'm about 2-weeks to getting this chore done.
seasick said:
You know, the ONLY reason I knew (or thought that I knew) was I remembered there was some reason I went with the ECO and not the other stuff. Couldn't remember the exact reason, but I knew there was a reason!
Tucker said:
I've read mixed reviews about the Colorite so maybe I got a bad batch...or didn't apply it correctly. I don't see me not following instructions on paint that cost me $100 though... :-|
The red stripes that were there were in bad shape. So I just removed them entirely, did my painting and then replaced them with standard red boot stripe. I don't remember the size, but I do know I had to cut the pieces to get them to be the right width.
As for the paint, I think it was Moeller Yamaha Dark Blue Metallic 1994-1997. Maybe it wasn't the right one, but I don't think Yamaha had varying colors in that year range. My 225s were '98s...but those are identical to '97s. I might have some old cans at home that I can double check. I did their full treatment. Zinc chromate, color coat and clear coat. It did seem to hold up well.
Lowers were painted off of the engines.