Replacing Brakes on My Trailer

[hotajax]

OK, not exactly a specific Grady issue. But, my trailer has a Grady sitting atop of it, so it's good enough for me to go on this forum.

I want to replace all my brakes and bearings on a Load Rite. I am serious considering the new Tie Down Engineering product, the G5 Brakes. (Has a SS rotor) My question to you is this: How much of a hassle is this going to be? Specific areas that look like major frustration are:

1. Removal of the backing plates. Boat has been dunked during the summer, then it sits for weeks. For the last SIX years.
2. Removal of the flexible brakes line from the fixed brake lines coming from the master cylinder. I plan on replacing the flexible lines.

I do not have pneumatic air gun available to break off the 4 bolts that hold the backing plate on.

I am fairly mechanical, but rust and corrosion will slow down the process for sure. Thanks. Jake

 

[DennisG01]

PB Blaster, heat, wax, etc will become your best friends. Start with the PB Blaster a week ahead of time and spray it once or twice daily. The G5 is not the only player in the market, but it is a good setup. I put them on my Sundancer's trailer and I also work part time at a marina. The G5 has gone on a lot of customer's trailers and it's been doing well.

You know that you have to replace at least the master cylinder (and possibly the entire coupler), too, right?

If the brake lines are being a pain in the butt, just run new ones - save yourself the time/hassle - they're not too expensive.

 

[ROBERTH]

As usual, Dennis nailed it!

My .02cents....I have the G5's and they are doing very well so far. Very happy with them. 2 years now and they still look good.
My trailer when I got it 3 years ago was a 2004 model. I don't recall having a lot of trouble removing the bolts, but soaking them was a must. Use a torch also as Dennis said.

I also ran new brake lines and new coupler. Got all my stuff from Eastern Trailer. Those guys are great! They have a sponsor posting over on THT site. I usually dealt with Chris and he was great in helping me with all what I needed in detail to run the brake lines, add a 2nd axle brake line kit and 2nd axle set of brakes.

Good luck!

 

[toybox1]

I did mine on my GW 258 about 3 years ago I used Kodiak dunk every weekend in ocean water and are in great condition

 

[Graybeard]

I like PB Blaster myself. My son's a bus mechanic and his advise is spray the nuts and just walk away so it can penetrate. I don't have that kind of patience so I just get out my propane hot wrench and turn those suckers red, well get them really hot. The guys I know with the TieDown disks had problems with the corrosion of the dissimilar metals, especially the slide pins. The guys with Kodiak's seem to like them better then the guys with the TieDowns. If you had drum brakes and are converting to disks you will also need a new actuator.

 

[ROBERTH]

Agree on the older versions of Tie downs. They were a knightmare with lots of negative posts that were likely deserved. However, the new G5 system resolves all that and have been performing very well. As well as the kodiak's. I had problems with my Kodiak's so figured would try the new advertised G5's and they hold to their advertisement so far and have heard same from some others that are using them. Way cheaper, so if you pocket is tight like mine, they can save you some bucks and still be reliable. Just sayin..... :mrgreen:

 

[wrxhoon]

To get the bolts off just break them and use new S/S bolts . It won't take much to break them, grab them with two spanners and go for it , if the heads are to rusty to grab with a spanner use a torch or grind them off.
I set up all trailers here with Kodiak all S/S brakes, if people don't want to pay for full S/S, I will use S/S calipers and none S/S rotors and brackets, full S/S still good after 5 years dunking in the salt, all you do is replace the pads and machine the rotors when they wear out. We have to have electric over hydraulic here to comply with our regs when the total weight is over 2000 kg ( 4400 lb) so I use either Hydrastar or Dexter actuator and a P3 controller in the truck, these are the best brakes you can get for a boat trailer.
With this set up the trailer will stop as good as the tow vehicle. Deemax make the same stuff and just as good, if you can buy them cheaper go for them.
Ok a bit expensive to start with but cheaper in the long run, I buy mine from these guys: http://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/ , about $600 full S/S for one axle or about $350 for dacro with S/S calipers. Add about $500 for Hydrastarand you are done, for under $2000 you can even buy new hubs.

 

[hotajax]

Thanks to All For the Input

I really appreciate you taking the time to reply. Jake

 

[grady23]

Try looking online at eastern trailer. I bought brakes for one axle using the stainless steel calipers and calumet coated rotors for about $250. The is NO warranty for any maker that covers corrosion--- Been there already. Now I use Salt-Away and spray my trailer brakes with it.I keep a 2.5 gal garden sprayer with Salt-Away mixture in the truck during boating season and use it EVERYTIME the trailer goes in/out saltwater.

 

[chillintime]

The saltaway in a sprayer is a fabulous idea - why didn't I think of that before . . . :goodjob