I have a 2002 Marlin with twin 225 hp engines. The gear shift is tight, any ideas? solutions? Thanks
Tight Gear Shift
- Thread starter knotoncall1022
- Start date
Highest probability is that the cable needs replacing. To tell, remove the connection at the motor and manually (with a pliers or wrench) shift the gears to make sure that LU is not binding.knotoncall1022 said:
While disconnected move the shifter lever to see if the control is binding.
If you have twins, both cables usually don't go bad at the same time. If you remember when the symptom started and if it affected both motors, you might be able to better identify the probably cause.
If it is the shifter cable and you don't know if or when it was last replaced, I strongly recommend that all four cables (for twins) be replaced
There may be an easy solution. I had this same problem on my port engine and found the clamp on the inside of the engine cowling had popped open and the cable was loose and bending therefore making the gear shift bind. I put the cable back into the clamp closed it and put a zip tie around it to keep it from coming loose again. I recommend you check that first.
Good luck.
Good luck.
jip40
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I've got a 330 and had the same problem, it turned out to be a cable issue. For me, the problem was with the starboard engine and it was difficult to adjust the engine rpm's while running.
It was suggested that I replace both cables at the same time, which I did 2 years ago and no problem until two weeks ago when I was pulling up to fuel dock. As I approached the dock, I went into reverse on starboard engine to kick the stern around to dock. It didn't go into reverse and as I gave it more throttle it picked up more forward speed. Managed to dock and with help from dock crew determined that the cable had worn through the housing and would bulge out instead of putting back pressure on the selector switch.
My manuals did not have any info on length of cable needed, called G-W tech support & was told to get 26' cable. It turned out that NAPA had them in stock at $46 each - this was in the keys so don't know if they carry them in other areas. Just make sure that you get the correct length cable.
The other suggestions about checking linkage and all is good advice. My point is that the cables are, or can be, a weak point and if they don't feel quite right have them checked out. BTW I now carry a spare cable for my peace of mind
It was suggested that I replace both cables at the same time, which I did 2 years ago and no problem until two weeks ago when I was pulling up to fuel dock. As I approached the dock, I went into reverse on starboard engine to kick the stern around to dock. It didn't go into reverse and as I gave it more throttle it picked up more forward speed. Managed to dock and with help from dock crew determined that the cable had worn through the housing and would bulge out instead of putting back pressure on the selector switch.
My manuals did not have any info on length of cable needed, called G-W tech support & was told to get 26' cable. It turned out that NAPA had them in stock at $46 each - this was in the keys so don't know if they carry them in other areas. Just make sure that you get the correct length cable.
The other suggestions about checking linkage and all is good advice. My point is that the cables are, or can be, a weak point and if they don't feel quite right have them checked out. BTW I now carry a spare cable for my peace of mind
jip40 said:
The best approach is to take a look at the existing cables and see if you can read the length printed on the outer sheath. Often it is worn off but you might find a marking on the cable near the helm as opposed to the motors.
Based in my experience, Grady support doesn't always get the length correct when asked. If you can't read the current cable length, the foolproof approach is to pull the old cables and measure. Of course, that creates other issues when installing new. If and when you pull the old, pull a new messenger rope so that you can hook it up to the new cables when installing them.
Obviously, the cables for one engine will be longer than the other.
Given the age of your boat, most likely best to just replace. I did throttle and shifter cables for both my engines about 2 years ago. Not a terribly difficult job. You should be able to see lengths stamped on the old casings somewhere. Look under the helm or where they exit the rigging tubes to find it. Cables and ends are fairly standard across manufacturers, so just get the length right and pick the ones you think best. I got mine from boats.net. Two key items - buy a threaded sleeve (I think I recall it was 6mm), remove the screw-on end connectors and then connect the old and new threaded ends to pull through your rigging tubes. I wrapped tape around the connection so there were no sharp edges to catch. The cables are pretty flexible but can't turn very sharp corners when pulling, so you will need to un-rig from your motors and get them reasonably straight for an easy pull. I pulled mine from the stern ends. Use a ton of that clear rigging lubricant - you can get from Home Depot in the electrical section (for wire pulling). Good to have a helper push one side while you pull the other. Be as gentle as possible so you don't damage other wires in the tubes.