Macerator/Waste holding tank

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Boosted1

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So the macerator on my 99 sailfish isn’t working. It has the typical all in one macerator/tank combo. I grossly took it apart and nearly vomited a few times taking it out. I’m going to try and clean it up somehow and see if I can revive it. If not, I’m pondering some options. I found groco 155-6110-12 is the newer replacement for the one I have. It’s quite expensive and I really hope to ever do this again. So then I stumbled upon a thread on here where someone bypassed the pump and just used a standard macerator and a Y valve on the suction hose. I like the idea of bypassing but hate that I would have to use a valve to choose between the macerator and suction hose. So that got me thinking. Has anyone tried to make a cover to bolt into the place the macerator is and just put the necessary fittings in the new plate to eliminate the need for the Y valve? I’m open to ideas.
 
You can replace just the macerator as you say. Prob the best option.
Do nothing and basically pump out each time when full, there should be a waste port on your boat to do this. Not sure why you would have to do anything for this option.
 
There is no y-valve on my boat. Two large hoses - one hose is waste water in the other to pump out deck plate. A smaller hose comes from the in-tank macerator and goes to the exit thru hull valve. My Egg Harbor had a y-valve in the bilge - pump out or deck plate. My tank is inside the head behind the toilet with a 10 screw cover plate. No y-valve for me.

I took this project on a few years ago after a failed attempt to fix the Grocco in-tank macerator. Nothing works better then a in-tank pump but when they fail its the worst job in boating.

Jabsco pumps are ideal when mounted low on the side of the tank - no lifting of contents, just pump it out. But when it fails its still a mess. On my boat there is no side access to do this.

Instead made a new cover plate and mounted the pump above the tank as close as possible. I made a "honey dipper straw" of 1 1/2" PVC to go into the tank to connect to the new pump. All hoses are blue silicone, expensive but easy to take apart if you have to. Jabsco claims 5' of lift (self priming) but you don't want to go more than a foot. If the pump doesn't prime quickly it will eat the impeller.

Some of my best work is covered up and never seen again if I did the job right. I take pictures of all of it! I'll post a photo of it later. So far its been working great!
IMG_0032.jpeg
09/21/2021: I have been having a problem getting the pump to prime after sitting for a long while. Put some water in the hose and it will pump out fine. Modified the install with a 90 degree reducer 1" to 3/4" and installed a 3/4" vented loop. It more about keeping some liquid in the hose at the pump. To winterize I'll have to pull the 90 degree hose, dump out and use vegetable oil - not sure if the impeller will tolerate the alcohol in the pink antifreeze.
 
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This is the link I was describing when he used a Y valve to tie the external macerator in. After messing with this internal one I pray I never have to do this again

Groco pump -simple macerator retrofit- 265 Express

Mine crapped out in my '04 265. I considered getting a Groco replacement but $500 for a lousy design was not appealing to me, so I looked for alternatives. After inspecting the arrangement, the first thing I determined was that better access was required- the existing 5 x11 hatch was...
www.greatgrady.com www.greatgrady.com
 
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Hookup, thanks. That’s exactly what I was looking for. Do you have anymore pictures? This is something I want to tackle over the winter. With my long list of other things
 
Boosted1 said:
Hookup, thanks. That’s exactly what I was looking for. Do you have anymore pictures? This is something I want to tackle over the winter. With my long list of other things
Click to expand...

Its in a tough spot. That picture is the best I can do. I can tell you a few things about it though. Not that complicated. I made a new lid out of starboard. One hole for vent. The 90 coming out of the tank is cutout to the pipe diameter with a coupling on the other side. Looks like I found something to gasket the pieces coming thru the lid. The PVC has an adaptor to convert PVC to threaded. From there all connections use nylon connections and silicone hose.

Access is open so I'll look around later this week. After that it gets closed up.
 
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EPA regs require a lockout of the overboard discharge within 3 miles of shore or in restricted waters. The regs allow for the following methods of locking
  • Close the seacock and remove the handle;
  • Padlock the seacock in the closed position;
  • Use a non-releasable wire-tie to hold the seacock in the closed position; or
  • Lock the door to the space enclosing the toilet(s) with a padlock or door handle key lock.

It isn't obvious in the photo what lockout is provided but some sort is required.
 
seasick said:
EPA regs require a lockout of the overboard discharge within 3 miles of shore or in restricted waters. The regs allow for the following methods of locking
  • Close the seacock and remove the handle;
  • Padlock the seacock in the closed position;
  • Use a non-releasable wire-tie to hold the seacock in the closed position; or
  • Lock the door to the space enclosing the toilet(s) with a padlock or door handle key lock.

It isn't obvious in the photo what lockout is provided but some sort is required.
Click to expand...
This macerater setup doesn’t change anything. My seacock is the lockout.
 
True as long as it can be locked and is locked or has the handle removed.
If you get boarded up here (relative to Cape May) , are within 3 miles of the coast line, don't have the discharge locked , and the DEP folks are in a bad mood, you will get a summons.
 
In 25 years of saltwater boating and fishing in NJ and FL I have never been stopped or boarded. I keep mine closed and wired off.

FL doesn’t want you to ever dump and want pump out. The towns will even come to your dock to pump you out. Only a few marinas do pump out (Bass Pro in Islamorada does).
Hookup1 said:
Its in a tough spot. That picture is the best I can do. I can tell you a few things about it though. Not that complicated. I made a new lid out of starboard. One hole for vent. The 90 coming out of the tank is cutout to the pipe diameter with a coupling on the other side. Looks like I found something to gasket the pieces coming thru the lid. The PVC has an adaptor to convert PVC to threaded. From there all connections use nylon connections and silicone hose.

Access is open so I'll look around later this week. After that it gets closed up.
Click to expand...
Boosted-I If I were to do it again (god forbid) I would replace the lid, add the honey dipper straw and put a fitting on the lid I could screw the pump into (blue thread sealant). You would need to add a brace that supports the pump but has to be removable to get the pump out (could be as simple as a 2x4 block screwed to where I have my pump mounted). Lid is a PITA to install/remove. This would shorten the lift, eliminate expensive hoses and possible vacuum leaks.
 
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When I saw your picture, I thought about a threaded coupling on top of the pickup, and just screwing the macerator into it. It really would eliminate a lot of fittings. From the pic, I couldn't tell if the bulkhead in the background was overhanging the pickup.
 
That macerator pump is heavy and I would be afraid that the momentum when the boat accelerates or decelerates would put a lot of stress on the fittings
 
Hookup1 said:
In 25 years of saltwater boating and fishing in NJ and FL I have never been stopped or boarded. I keep mine closed and wired off.
Click to expand...
I have not been boarded either but some fellow boaters I know have been boarded numerous times. I think that once you get on the DEPs radar (usually for suspicion of illegal fish) you are much more likely to get boarded again.
Getting a summons for shorts can get expensive in NYC area.The ticket is one thing but you have to appear in court and there is an additional court fee that is as much as the first ticket
 
This comes down to "do the right thing". Boarding and fines are one thing, passing on an illegal set up to the next owner (all boats will be sold at some point) are not things we should be doing.
 
Nothing overhanging. That pump is heavy. The trick to keeping the pump impeller from burning up is to get it to prime quickly.
Fishtales said:
This comes down to "do the right thing". Boarding and fines are one thing, passing on an illegal set up to the next owner (all boats will be sold at some point) are not things we should be doing.
Click to expand...
Just to be clear there is nothing illegal about my setup or modifications. The handle is wired shut and complies with USCG and State regulations. The head is hardly used and I'm using the marina pump out services. In my case I'm not sure why I even bothered to fix it but I like everything to work just in case I need it.
 
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I just can't justify the expense and trouble to fix mine. Pumpout is free. The gas dock has it. I need it once or twice a season because of a handful of "boating" trips with the ladies and canyon trips with a certain fishing buddy who shall remain nameless....
 
Thanks for all the advice everyone. My boat never had a lockout on the handle but I’ll rectify that this off-season.

I agree with not really needing the macerator. There are pump out boats all over the gsb during the summer and plenty of pump stations around as well. I just like everything working correctly. Figured if I could modify the tank and use a cheaper macerator that’s readily available, I not only have everything working but I gain a little more capacity in the tank.
 
GW and Groco got back to me with diagrams of the holding tank monitor panel and the in-tank level sensor. Panel is discontinued but in-tank sensor is available at a price. Mine isn't reading correctly and wanted to have a look before closing things up. Thought someone might need this information at some point. Groco GM-50 Groco GM-450
GM-50 Panel.jpeg
 

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3-pin connector was inseparable. Cut the leads off. Tried to get the tank level sensor out. Could not budge it with channel locks. Could not find a tool to fit. 8-point 55mm.
Tank Level.jpeg
I removed the lugs. All junked up. Apparently the "hot" center lead was shorted to "green" which indicated the tank was at 75%. After cleaning the terminals up it ohm'ed out "open" which is correct for an empty tank. Jumpered the monitor leads and they all worked properly. Waiting on a 3-pin harness. Everything goes back together this week.
 
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