Loving this blog so I can't stay off it. Sold my 21' and moved up to a 330 express. In your experience, what do you suggest for dock lines? Size and length. I am a fan of braid as opposed to triple strand. Thoughts?
Appropriate dock lines
- Thread starter Squid1962
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5/8 double braid, pre spliced. at least that's what i use. chafe guards and snubbers for the dock cleats. i use multiple sets. dock lines stay so length is based on layout. on board are 30 footers. good luck, ron
Thx Ron. I like the double braid myself. I was thinking 30' to stay with me aboard should do it. I have some 5/8 (probably overkill) from my 21' so that may be salvageable.
I use both 5/8 and 1/2 double braid. For longer-term mooring I use 5/8 mostly for the wear characteristics. As to strength, if 5/8 is needed for strength then you would have other problems. Half is fine in most cases. A little easier to work with on the cleats.
For our Marlin 300:
1.) Four 35' 1/2 lines; 2 bow 2 stern, always attached to bow cleats and both stern lifting rings in the transom. Reason? I can get to them quickly when docking solo..I don't have to re-attach them while drifting in a tight fairway preparatory to sterning into a slip.
The reason I have 35' bow & stern lines for a 30 ft boat? The bowlines at that length double as a forward spring without having to break out a separate spring line. I bend it on the cleat near the bow and run the remainder aft to the spring cleat.
2.) Four 20' spring lines, kept in the aft box above the batteries. They are used in situations where I have excessive current and wind dockside to deal with. (An extra spring or two helps me sleep better during a windy night.) I'm not sure what size they are... One drop down from 1/2? 3/8 maybe?
1.) Four 35' 1/2 lines; 2 bow 2 stern, always attached to bow cleats and both stern lifting rings in the transom. Reason? I can get to them quickly when docking solo..I don't have to re-attach them while drifting in a tight fairway preparatory to sterning into a slip.
The reason I have 35' bow & stern lines for a 30 ft boat? The bowlines at that length double as a forward spring without having to break out a separate spring line. I bend it on the cleat near the bow and run the remainder aft to the spring cleat.
2.) Four 20' spring lines, kept in the aft box above the batteries. They are used in situations where I have excessive current and wind dockside to deal with. (An extra spring or two helps me sleep better during a windy night.) I'm not sure what size they are... One drop down from 1/2? 3/8 maybe?
SkunkBoat
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for your permanent dock setup...have different colors so you can say "grab the red one"... or "Hold the black one until I say throw it on the dock"
1/2 inch double braid I also have a 330 express. have a set of 6 that stay on the dock so they are pre positioned at the correct length for bow stern and spring. I keep 5 on the boat so the others never have to leave the dock and are always set to go. Good luck with the new rig
You didn't mention what style of dock you have, that makes a difference: For example, a floating dock would be rigged differently than a fixed dock. A slip with a finger on both sides of the boat would also be rigged differently. You also may need to take into account the amount of tidal swing, particularly for fixed docks or bulkheads.
An interesting fact regarding line size (not length) is that the size of the dock cleat sort of determines the line diameter. Figure 1/16 inch diameter for each inch of cleat length. So for a 8 inch cleat, a 1/2 line is the best fit ( not necessarily the right capacity though) . The relationship of cleat size to line diameter is used to insure that the line tie off with the correct 'grab' If a line is sized correctly, one loop and one over and under knot is sufficient. If you have to wrap the line around the cleat several times to get it to bite, the line is too small or the cleat is too big. I many cases, the 'standard' spacing and positions of the dock cleats is often less than optimal.
For a fixed dock on one side of the boat, long crossed spring lines are the way to go.
An interesting fact regarding line size (not length) is that the size of the dock cleat sort of determines the line diameter. Figure 1/16 inch diameter for each inch of cleat length. So for a 8 inch cleat, a 1/2 line is the best fit ( not necessarily the right capacity though) . The relationship of cleat size to line diameter is used to insure that the line tie off with the correct 'grab' If a line is sized correctly, one loop and one over and under knot is sufficient. If you have to wrap the line around the cleat several times to get it to bite, the line is too small or the cleat is too big. I many cases, the 'standard' spacing and positions of the dock cleats is often less than optimal.
For a fixed dock on one side of the boat, long crossed spring lines are the way to go.
5/8 braid. Multiple likes and snubbers on stern and spring lines. Boat (330 Express) is in a floating bay marina with a large sea wall. Still when it blows 40-50 (usually a Norester), it can rock the boat and snap smaller lines. The 330 is certainly heavy!
PointedRose
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I agree 5/8 ought to be fine and sometimes fuel docks and other places have smaller cleats so larger lines can get annoying. Better quality line 5/8 would have better breaking strength than lower quality 3/4. I’d go a little long on the lines, personally I’d probably have 2 40’ 5/8 and 2 20 or 30’ maybe down to 3/8 or 1/2 (or just stick to 5/8) As others said, double finger dock would be different vs side tie. Spring lines are a must docking in weather, snubbers help. If the line is too long, can always trim it down and find a use for the short piece, fender or whatever. And a couple long lines can be handy when docking solo as others mentioned as well.
This, makes it much easier with crew members as well as helpers on the dock. I use black for my spring lines and gold/white for my bow and stern lines.
Buy 2 sets of dock lines one as a permanent set that says on your dock and another for transient marinas, gas docks and use for doubling lines for storms. On my 305 I use a combination of 1/2" and 5/8", on a 330 you probably should use 5/8. Once you get any bigger then that It becomes harder to tie off multiple lines to the same cleat.
New Grady White fella here,
We just finished the details on our new 2002 Sailfish 282, what a nice boat! I‘m going to need all new lines and fenders so I thought I’d jump in.
We are on a floating dock in Maine, single side tie-up slip.
I like the color idea for lines, I’m thinking 5/8 braided, just not comfortable with 1/2 although I think they are strong enough. Not sure on the fenders...thoughts?
What a great forum !
We just finished the details on our new 2002 Sailfish 282, what a nice boat! I‘m going to need all new lines and fenders so I thought I’d jump in.
We are on a floating dock in Maine, single side tie-up slip.
I like the color idea for lines, I’m thinking 5/8 braided, just not comfortable with 1/2 although I think they are strong enough. Not sure on the fenders...thoughts?
What a great forum !
PointedRose
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I’d say 1/2 is more than adequate really. You can check the breaking strength of the line before you buy it - that makes more of a difference than size. Can use snubbers too to absorb shock if it’s real windy. Larger dock lines sometimes are a pain with smaller cleats at fuel docks or public docks. Have a few extra smaller lines on board just in case (even 3/8). Taylormade are good quality fenders. Get at least 2-3 on each side - well I guess you only need one side so you could do 4 total and keep 2 inside or put out for weather. With a side tie, you will want long spring lines essentially criss cross bow to stern and vice versa. Or use a midship cleat. Congrats on the boat!
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