Boat has cracks in transom, port and starboard, from corners under bang plate. There is no obvious bulging or flex in transom, have not tested with moisture meter, boat was just hauled out of water in early November. I'm in discussions with yard and have been advised that these could be cracks in gelcoat, but to be prepared for full transom rebuild repair. This is my first experience with this, should I be expecting a full rebuild and reinforcement of transom? What are the odds of having to repeat this repair in the future?
Transom cracks, '99 Adventure 208
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What motor is on the boat? I see that the port side lower scupper is half under water. That can mean extra weight and may be due to a heavier motor. Regardless, those are not gel coat stress cracks in my opinion. I suspect more serious transom issues or maybe stringer issues . If that is the case and the transoms rebuilt correctly. it should last a long time.
I would suggest a few inspection small holes be drilled near the cracks to allow the core to be inspected for mush, rot, or water.. Can you get some pictures of inside the bilge looking aft at the inside of the transom?
I would suggest a few inspection small holes be drilled near the cracks to allow the core to be inspected for mush, rot, or water.. Can you get some pictures of inside the bilge looking aft at the inside of the transom?
I've seen rotted Grady transoms flex when pushing the hull on plane. The movement was substantial to the point it was a little frightening. Despite that there were no cracks on the outside of the transom. Whatever is going on with the boat you are looking at is significant regardless of the cause.
PointedRose
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Those definitely don't appear to be just minor stress cracks in the gelcoat. However, you won't really know till more investigation is done. What's the deal with that schmootz beign applied over the crack on the stbd side? That's a band aid repair if I ever saw one - and a red flag.
Stbd side is lower because of the kicker motor.
Stbd side is lower because of the kicker motor.
I should have clarified, I took these pics while swimming, there were people hanging out in the boat at the time. The main motor is Yamaha 0X66 150hp. An 8hp Yamaha 4-stroke is mounted starboard for trolling. I don't have access currently but will inquire about some pics from inside bilge, thank you!
Mustang65fbk
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I agree... looks like someone started doing a half-arsed repair job and then either stopped or the problem got worse and worse. If someone put this little amount of care into an extremely visible section on the boat, I wonder what it looks like underneath or what other things have been skimped on over the years?
we found the cracks last season and weren't able to get it repaired last winter, that was a temporary fix applied this spring to get through this summer boating season before formal repair this coming winter. Sounds like moving ahead with the repair is the right thing to do!
Thanks for the additional info. That motor weight and HP is appropriate for your hull.
If you want to keep the boat, repairs are in order. Note that what I expect to be needed will be pretty costly. I really don't see a cheap fix so if you get a low estimate, it will probably be for one of the above mentioned band aid fixes.
Because the cracks are so wide spaced, I think that most of the transom will have to be opened. Then depending on whether there is stringer damage inside, the repair could be more extensive.
I am not up to date on fiberglass work pricing but would expect the right job to run thousands ( 5 or so) and up.
If you want to keep the boat, repairs are in order. Note that what I expect to be needed will be pretty costly. I really don't see a cheap fix so if you get a low estimate, it will probably be for one of the above mentioned band aid fixes.
Because the cracks are so wide spaced, I think that most of the transom will have to be opened. Then depending on whether there is stringer damage inside, the repair could be more extensive.
I am not up to date on fiberglass work pricing but would expect the right job to run thousands ( 5 or so) and up.
Thank you for the feedback, I've been quoted a price in line with a significant repair. When you say stringers--do you mean stringers under the deck? Or in the hull? I need to educate myself on how these boats are constructed!
Stringers are structural members that run fore and aft as opposed to bulkheads that run port to starboard. Now that I think about it, I am not sure if there are stringers in the 208 that run all the way back to the transom. I kind of remember that if you look in the aft lockers, you will see platforms that hold the batteries on one side and the oil tank on the other and I think those platform don't extend to the transom. There is a gap between the two areas.
Can you post some details ( not pricing) of what the repair entails. If the core is rotten, most if not all of the transom skin and coring will have to be removed. Then a new core ( something like Coosa composite) would be epoxied and glassed in with several layers followed by more glass and resin to form a new transom. Part of the job would also be to fair the transom, sand of course and apply gel coat(color matched). The transom cap would probably be replaced as well. The cost and complexity of the job depends on whether the transom has to be removed all the way to the hull sides as well as up to the rub rail line.
I do have a question. On the photo of the swim platform side, there is a black line above the transducer area and above the platform. Is that line a crack or something else?
Can you post some details ( not pricing) of what the repair entails. If the core is rotten, most if not all of the transom skin and coring will have to be removed. Then a new core ( something like Coosa composite) would be epoxied and glassed in with several layers followed by more glass and resin to form a new transom. Part of the job would also be to fair the transom, sand of course and apply gel coat(color matched). The transom cap would probably be replaced as well. The cost and complexity of the job depends on whether the transom has to be removed all the way to the hull sides as well as up to the rub rail line.
I do have a question. On the photo of the swim platform side, there is a black line above the transducer area and above the platform. Is that line a crack or something else?
Thanks for the info re: stringers, hull construction--very helpful. I will dig up the quote shortly and provide details of the proposed repair--from memory, I have no recollection of anything related to stringers.
Regarding your question: I am not sure where there transducer area is. The transom crack on that side (port) extends diagonally from the corner where the bang plate ends, down and towards the trim tab. Is that what you're referring to?
My error on the transducer area. I was referring to the mount for the port trim tab actuator. I see that crack but there is a dark mark on the photo coming from the top of the swim platform. It may be a crack or a string or just a mark. I can't tell.
Anywho, the transom is the entire read surface from left side hull to right side hull and from the bottom edge to the deck cap usually covered with the rub rail on the outside ends and of course whatever caps the motor bracket mounting area . In summary just about the entire rear surface.
Anywho, the transom is the entire read surface from left side hull to right side hull and from the bottom edge to the deck cap usually covered with the rub rail on the outside ends and of course whatever caps the motor bracket mounting area . In summary just about the entire rear surface.