Moving 330 from wet slip to dry outdoor rack

[jip40]

Moving 330 from in water slip to dry rack storage outdoors - do you enclose the helm area completely or leave a couple of flaps open for ventilation

 

[DennisG01]

Dry rack as in "under cover" and out of the elements? Dry rack can mean outside in the weather, too... the boat is "high and dry in a rack".

Assuming the former, it can't hurt to leave things a bit open since you have that luxury of no weather on the boat.

 

[jip40]

Unfortunately no cover - open to all wind and rain on FL panhandle. It is protected by some multilevel racks and some 1 & 2 story buildings.

Any type of a ventilation device you can think of, I believe I will have access to 30 amp power

 

[wspitler]

I close all of my canvas leave the cabin door open between the helm and the cabin and install a medium sized dehumidifier running continuously at 45% humidity draining into the sink along with a fan to move the air around. I open all of the bilge access panels in the cabin and doors and drawers, including the Head. I do not have any mold. On a lift but similar environment in FL Big Bend region.

 

[DennisG01]

Oh, OK. Then it's essentially the same thing as you being in a slip. If you're happy with how the interior has faired with your current plan of attack, which it seems like you are otherwise this would be differently titled thread, then I would just keep doing what you're doing. No need to change things if you're already good

But air movement is definitely the most important thing to combat smells/mold/mildew/etc.

 

[wspitler]

I also cover the helm chair and cushions in the helm area with old sheets and remove the bolsters from the cockpit and store them in the cabin. It’s a quick way to prevent aging of the vinyl. The canvas is not airtight, but the humidity even inside the helm stays relatively low.

 

[Fishtales]

In addition to a dehumidifier, you can use a small resistive heater/air dryer (Westmarine sells one) with fan would help.
Some starbright moisture packets work well too.

 

[jip40]

I close all of my canvas leave the cabin door open between the helm and the cabin and install a medium sized dehumidifier running continuously at 45% humidity draining into the sink along with a fan to move the air around. I open all of the bilge access panels in the cabin and doors and drawers, including the Head. I do not have any mold. On a lift but similar environment in FL Big Bend region.

I have a counter top dehumidifier that has the discharge water draining into the sink & then overboard - but when I used to use it I kept my cabin door closed, thought it would give better protection to the cabin. I will give it a try leaving the door open & add a fan for air movement - thanks for the ideas

 

[jip40]

Oh, OK. Then it's essentially the same thing as you being in a slip. If you're happy with how the interior has faired with your current plan of attack, which it seems like you are otherwise this would be differently titled thread, then I would just keep doing what you're doing. No need to change things if you're already good

But air movement is definitely the most important thing to combat smells/mold/mildew/etc.

When I’m in the slip I have shore power & keep the A/C set at 76 when I’m not there - keeps the cabin great

 

[jip40]

I close all of my canvas leave the cabin door open between the helm and the cabin and install a medium sized dehumidifier running continuously at 45% humidity draining into the sink along with a fan to move the air around. I open all of the bilge access panels in the cabin and doors and drawers, including the Head. I do not have any mold. On a lift but similar environment in FL Big Bend region.

When I’m in the slip I have shore power & keep the A/C set at 76 when I’m not there - keeps the cabin great

In addition to a dehumidifier, you can use a small resistive heater/air dryer (Westmarine sells one) with fan would help.
Some starbright moisture packets work well too.

Thanks I’ll check into it

 

[Fishtales]

Will there be anything above you? I;ve seen 3 high in our area. The bottom boats get all the drippings from the ones above. I'd investigate some type of easy to install cover if you find yourself in that position.

 

[Beyond A Wake]

What fish tales say. If you are at the bottom of the rack and have access to power, then be aware that all above you will not only drip but when they are put in or taken out the forklifts rusty forks will drip on you as well. I am on bottom in enclosed rack building (cat5) and it is annoying with the salt crystals from droppings but the rust stains are worse. Also be aware that the forklifts are moving all the time and spewing out soot from diesel engines. In my case indoors this is the worst part as the soot settles on boat and means , clean soot off before going out and clean again salt off when coming back in wash racks on the grounds.
I have my seats covered with sheets and bow (open in my case) covered with canvas with cushions removed and only backrests that need being covered.

In open to the air rack it is pretty much same as on lift in slip.

H

 

[everwhom]

x2 on the desktop dehumidifier. You have to find one with a physical on/off switch as the electronic ones may not power back on if the power is interrupted. re: leaving the air conditioning running, I prefer to keep all my thru-hulls closed when I'm not using them. Too many boats sunk at the dock due to an open thru-hull and failed hose!

 

[Fishtales]

Prob the biggest concern is handling damage. Your not going to be notified unless it is more than a surface scratch or gouge. The staff are trained but they are usually young and the turnover is high. I'd talk with folks that keep their boats this way and get the pro/cons.

 

[Sardinia306Canyon]

Well, it seems that OP jip40 alredy decided or have to move her to a dry rack.
In all the years i was frequenting Los Suenos in Costa Rica some of the owners where not really happy with dry rack solution, but there where and probably are no wet slips available. The reason for not being too happy was dripping and dirt/rust from above and continuous in/out is certainly not the best for a hull and there is always risk of damage.
Most of the boats where considerable smaller (generally 25-32 ft CC or cabin boats), not 33ft wider express boats what would not fit their dry rack with two stacks. Their big fork lift could barely lift out my 34ft Venture 34 for lenght issues as the forks where on the limit, but there may be longer/more powerful forklifts.

do you enclose the helm area completely or leave a couple of flaps open for ventilation

Back to original question, i would close the helm completely but leave something open to provide adequate air circulation, but basically the same as when she was in a slip, there should not be a big difference between slip and dry drack.
Chris

 

[Fishtales]

I agree with the size comment. The ones I've seen usually have a 25' or so limit. They swing the boats around like parking a car with those large forklifts. I think the 330 is a tad big for that type of storage but if they have the equipment it can be done.

 

[jip40]

Will there be anything above you? I;ve seen 3 high in our area. The bottom boats get all the drippings from the ones above. I'd investigate some type of easy to install cover if you find yourself in that position.

I will be on a single ground level service type rack nobody above me

 

[jip40]

I agree with the size comment. The ones I've seen usually have a 25' or so limit. They swing the boats around like parking a car with those large forklifts. I think the 330 is a tad big for that type of storage but if they have the equipment it can be done.

They have a forklift that can handle my boat - this facility did my repower 3 years ago & last summer had it there for 3 months

 

[Fishtales]

Should be ok then. Good luck!