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https://www.boatus.com/expert-advice/expert-advice-archive/2012/july/how-do-sacrificial-anodes-work

What do you plan to use the rod holder for?

If you do a Google image search for 2015 Grady White freedom 255, you will see some examples of the table and mount. Pics are too large to copy and paste on my phone.

Took me a long time to tear my eyes away from those nuts and bolts, before I could focus on the cable. What the hell are they holding, is that the windshield? If the water is running down the cables, I would think that your problem is on the top, where it is getting in..

Pop that cupholder out, and see if you can see what that panel is made of, as far as coring goes. Too bad the cup holder is there, that spot would give you support on two planes.

Never heard anyone say, “I wish I had my old 2 stroke back”.

Me either. If you have all the parts, show us how the pole fits in the base. You can do a google image search , and see approximately where it is located, but not exact measurements.

How thick was the glass there? Was it solid glass, no coring? We can see the backing plate in the last photo, on the port side. If there was a question of strength, it looks like you had room to go larger with the backing plate. I might consider using a 6 inch circular material that would stick...

I had a 22, with the motor on the transom, for about 10 years. It was definitely not a 60 mile offshore boat, and would not have been with a bracket.

Rusty Ron has a couple of sets that might work, if you can stand his price. He buys the GW scratch and dent, and over runs. Make him a low offer on the scuffed one, and see how he responds. He will be more likely to deal if you call him directly, and avoid the ebay hassle and fees...

Picture of the other one? Mine, and most I think, are one piece wrap around.

There are some old threads here about sourcing those, but not sure which models. Start guessing search words.

Were the four missing wires cut at the plug, or were they removed from the plug? They should still be back there somewhere. You may have to start at the bow light switch, and trace it to the forward end of the rigging tube, and see if you have the same four wire bundle. Need one person on each...

You saved a bunch, I would rather have a good trolling motor with spot lock.

Yeah, that shouldn't be a dead end. First pics fooled me, seeing both halves of the plug. Didn't realize the last two were the two sides plugged together. Your OP said, "They stopped working when the switch is activated." Did they work for you before? Do your cockpit courtesy lights, and your...

Looks like they run all the way aft, thru the plug, and back through the rigging tube to the switch panel, which is where the chart says they get power. If you have output power at the switch terminals, check to see if it is getting to the plug, then to the light. Or, just test power at the...

Is this a single fixture, with a red and green lens? I think bow lights are supposed to be gray, aft gray with white stripe, and anchor gray w/red stripe.

Let's try this again--APIWATW! By 'insert', are you referring to the spigot, or to the plastic housing?

Never had a boat with fuel valves, but from a practical point, and a safety point, it should have a shut-off position, not just 2 in, one out. Otherwise, it sees to me that once a tank is empty, the motor would continue to pull from the line with the least resistance, which would be air. Hookup...

The way the rule was explained to me, the language addresses equipment and discharge zones, but not bodily functions. Once you use a bucket, it becomes an MSD.