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Good point. Maybe Phils props are not intended for the replaceable inserts but his repair service is trying to use them anyway. That would sure explain why they would spin out right away.

China rubber is junk. I'll bet if you acquire the inserts yourself from the proper source you will have better luck.

Maybe I misunderstood what I was seeing in that short video. I thought that load of bubbles was due to the idle exhaust port being submerged and the idle poppet was releasing exhaust due to idle speed.

At idle that exhaust port should be active but should not be below water constantly. Has your boat recently started sitting deeper in the water than before?

I agree with seasick, and the term "properly re-hubbed" includes the requirement that the hubs are from the manufacturer who's name is on the props and not China knock-offs. The installer should also be authorized by the prop manufacturer to work on their product.

CorrosionX is a good product but there are many.

seasick, That size range of 23 to 28, really spans a wide range of different tow vehicles also. Are you going to be trailering ? Do you already own an F450?

Here's one in my local craigslist. The sun has beat it up, but that's fixable. Appears it didn't get used much. Probably could negotiate the price. https://sarasota.craigslist.org/boa/d/sarasota-2004-grady-white-282-sailfish/7512350648.html

Were I you, I would watch the back of the helm pump while your wife turns the wheel back and forth lock to lock, before I tore things apart so you know for sure just where the fluid is exiting.

I did a scientific test for you. You will need exactly 14 rolls of 3M 88 electrical tape. Roll it evenly from the bottom, up 3 1/2 inches on the side of a standard beer can and it will fit nicely in that standard holder. When you finish drinking that one, just run down to the hardware store and...

If you install a larger diameter roller it will cause your anchor to sit further forward on the pulpit. The point of balance on the anchor will be farther forward in relation to the rotation point which is the bolt through the roller. A roller that is 2 inches bigger in diameter will cause the...

This may be what you need. Part #23-45......Check the Grady archives for the part # to be sure. https://www.ebay.com/itm/204026925768?epid=766639187&hash=item2f80f3d2c8:g:kAAAAOSw6qhfvrro

You may be able to use your serial number to figure out which one for sure. It would be worth a call to SIM because if you can use the #5, it would save you $20. I do believe though that the one that starts out 69J is the one for you.

Yours will be the same as mine.

I looked up that number and it lists that number for the V6 models from 2010 to 2019. Probably ended when the new cowling style came out.

My part number is the first #6. Starts out 69J....the #5 listed as 68F, I don't know but probably for different model. The second #6 is the rubber boot that fits over the nozzle.

That is the drain line from the air intake on the cowling. Any water spray that gets into the intake air gets settled out in that plastic baffle you see in the top of the cowl, and the water then drains down that line and back into the sea. I replaced mine right after I bought the boat. It was...

Tommy Boy, If you haven't already, You should post this question in the "Tips and Maintenance " section and you will get a response. Be sure to include the year and model of your boat.

I'm not familiar with that control at all but if it has any kind of a setup menu maybe you can calibrate the temperature readout.

If you use your boat for fishing and family outings, the aluminum prop will work fine. If you are a hot rod that likes to launch over the swells and splash back in the pond while your engine is up against the rev limiter, you should probably have the stainless. You will find the shifting nicer...