I've got twin Yamaha 250s with 15 1/4 x 19T props. Worked fine last year but when I took them off over the winter, the hubs were pretty chewed up. I had them rehubbed. Lasted one trip then they spun. When you got past 3500 RPM, the RPM shot up into the 5000s. Both hubs. They rehubbed them again. This time it lasted 3 trips and then did the same thing. Anode cooling passage is facing the correct way (toward the front of the boat). Last time the hub for the starboard engine was melted, probably from me trying too hard to get back to port. Anyone have anything similar happen? I'm gong to replace the props with new rather than try rehubbing again, but don't want the same thing to happen to new props. Thanks.
Prop hubs spinning
- Thread starter Phil D Cooler
- Start date
Did you install and use the props right after you picked them up?
Some of 'caulking' product that are used need a few days to fully cured don't honestly think that was your problem. I think the workmanship was poor or there was an issue with the materials.
I would bring them back and ask to have them properly re-hubbed.
Some of 'caulking' product that are used need a few days to fully cured don't honestly think that was your problem. I think the workmanship was poor or there was an issue with the materials.
I would bring them back and ask to have them properly re-hubbed.
I agree with seasick, and the term "properly re-hubbed" includes the requirement that the hubs are from the manufacturer who's name is on the props and not China knock-offs. The installer should also be authorized by the prop manufacturer to work on their product.
Already did that. They failed the second time. I'm wondering about the quality of the inserts also.
China rubber is junk. I'll bet if you acquire the inserts yourself from the proper source you will have better luck.
On the Yami oem props I have had rehubbed, there is no insert per se. The center bushing is potted in place with some sort of urethane goo that sets up forming a bond between the prop hub and the prop shaft bushing
The last prop I had done was a original 17M Saltwater Series model ( Stainless but may have been painted originally.
The last prop I had done was a original 17M Saltwater Series model ( Stainless but may have been painted originally.
Good point. Maybe Phils props are not intended for the replaceable inserts but his repair service is trying to use them anyway. That would sure explain why they would spin out right away.
I've used the Yamaha shop for 10 years and they have been great. The prop shop they use has been doing their props for quite a while. Both are baffled. I did notice something today. The new style Yamaha anodes do not have the trim tab on them. It's a flat disc with the cooling duct entrance on one side. I know when I installed them, the cooling duct was facing forward along the centerline. Now they look like they are cocked off a few degrees. Might be possible that it's not lining up properly with the hub cooling system. Going to look at that possibility this week and see why they are turning. If anyone has a proper torque value for the anodes let me know.
Those tabs are for twin motor application where one motor is counter rotating. For single motor or twin normal rotating motors you need the anode tab with a fin. A flat one will do.. Otherwise you probably will experience steering problems ( excessive force needed to turn one way and /or trouble holding course (depends on steering system)
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Ekea
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did you have the boat before last year? could that be a symptom of being over pitched? i know thats a long shot, and if your performance numbers are good, then its def something else.