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The blow out preventer is damaged. They assessed that early on. They are still concerned that completely closing all 4 vents might cause the BOP to blow up now that the top hat is in place. The only real solution is to plug the well from underneath. That's what the relief wells are all about.

I made the run from Tarpon Springs to Marathon in a 22 Grady years ago. It was a nice easy 300 mile trip. I agree that you should head for Vaca Cut to avoid the shallow stuff. There are usually a lot of abandoned crap pots. Watch out for them. We fouled the prop on one halfway across Florida Bay...

My old 1975 Overnighter had a 50 gallon aluminum tank. It completely filled all of the available space.

That's a very common problem with many fish finders. Some are very sensitive to voltage drops. The solution is to wire the fishfinder to the #2 battery and use #1 for starting. If you have an F250, you should purchase a Yamaha battery isolator/charger lead for about $70. This plugs into your...

The only way that you might have a problem is if the E10 in your tank has absorbed a lot of water. It can hold about 0.4% water in solution without separation. But the ability of different ethanol blends to hold water is not stoichiometric. That is, while 100 gallons of E10 might be able to hold...

I'll second the Simple Green. I keep a little in there all of the time. It works as well as any bilge cleaner I've tried. It's cheaper and smells better.

Do you launch your boat from a trailer? Water entering the block is fairly common in the Cook Inlet region of Alaska where they launch boats directly into the surf using tractors. If an exhaust valve is open, water can be forced into the cylinder through the exhaust.

Growth on the bottom is a multi-step process. The first step is the formation of a microbial biofilm. How fast this occurs depends on a number of factors. But you can generally just wipe this soft layer off for up to 2 weeks. After that, the hard stuff starts to glue itself to the bottom.

I "summerized" an F150 last year and fogged the cylinders with Yamaha fogging oil. I was very surprised when it didn't smoke at all when I fired it up for the first time in September. The fogging oil must be designed to burn completely.

Here a couple of links that mentions a gel problem when mixing E10 and MTBE containing fuel: http://www.evinrude-parts.com/boat_ethanol_danger_precaution.html http://www.star109.org/tech%20tips/Dr%20Jays%20Tech%20Tip%20E-10.htm I have not been able to find any real documentation for...

Maybe the Navy should nuke the rig. :roll: The problem is that only the oil companies and their subcontractors have the infrastructure and technology to work on a leak 5000 ft down. All the Feds can do is to help with containment and try to hold BP and whoever else responsible. From...

The second mounting hole on the engine. I have no bracket. We only discussed the 226. I wouldn't extrapolate this info to a 228 since they are different boats with different ride characteristics.

I got a call from Jeff Brown at Grady White in response to my e-mail. We had an interesting conversation. While some degree of prop walk and listing to port is characteristic of hull and a high torque engine turning a big prop, there are a few things that can be done to minimize the effects...

It is supposed to prevent corrosion and keep the gaskets from drying out. Not necessary if you use StaBil.

I agree. I had a 1986 Seafarer with the drop down splash well and it was the a great small dive boat. Very easy access to the swim platform. We never took water over the transom. I also agree on the suggestions for checking for a wet transom. You can have a surveyor check the transom and...

If you have a carbed engine, you won't have a vapor separator tank (VST). That's part of a fuel injection system. You can drain the bowls of the individual carbs, but it is a PITA. With a good stabilizer like marine StaBil, you will be fine without draining the carbs.

If you have an F150 or an HPDI, drain the VST if you will be laying the boat up for more than a month or so. Draining will remove more fuel than running until the engine dies. Otherwise, just use a stabilizer.

Yep. The fin on the zinc anode above the prop is the torque tab. Haven't heard back from Grady yet. They usually take a day or so.

The listing and steering wheel pull are greatest with the motor trimmed in, which would be expected. It's actually not uncommon for a true deep V hull with a big engine and large prop to list to port. But the SV2 isn't a classic 24 degree deep V. That's my real concern. But other people...

The rear of the torque tab is adjusted 2 notches to starboard. Since it still steers hard when turning to port, it may have to go even further. The list takes 3 lights on the port tab to correct in a flat sea. The SV2 is a very different hull than my old '86 Seafarer. It handles similar to...