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the tank is not very tight and the stringers and bulkheads are rot free wood in my boat so I am hopin my to not have to replace any superstructure components. I can see down the stringers pretty far and they look very good. I am just going to go through this season as is and order a new one...

No major leak. But the prior owner neglected this boat so bad, salt has built up under the sender unit and had some huge pits form that is possibly allowing water into the tank during long storage before my first run of the year, I found about 1.5 gallons of water on the bottom of the tank and...

Pulling up an old thread. Anyone complete this task yet? Mine is a 2001 and appears to have a runway forward of the tank to be slide up but not sure it can be tilted out.

Mine was a mess on my 268. I bought a new one at boat outfitters. I had to do some cutting but was well worth it

Could also be as simple as deck hatches etc.

I replaced mine with the new perko. They are fantastic but not the same pattern. I was able to adjust them so no holes needed filled. Just had to buff the area good while the old was off before putting the new ones on

Here is what your looking to do correct?

I did this with my islander 268 using 1 floor jack. A bunch of wood. And finishing off with 5 legit boat stands But I have used all blocks before

Following this thread. I am doing mine next year it’s a 2001. It looks like the bulkhead in mine can be unbolted in the back under the batteries.

I am replacing mine now as well but I am doing the drains and thru hull scuppers as well

Thanks for posting this. Going to cut my deck hole soon. How close was the trim tab hose. Any risk of cutting it? Mine is 2001

If you want to tow, go with the islander. If you want to wet slip get the bigger boat. If you get the islander let me know. I have torn mine apart and did a refresh on it. I may be able to help answer questions

Eraser wheel for sure. No sticky mess to clean up after. I have done 3 boats this way and would never deal with heat guns and razors

Also you will have to do some research on the new engine and prop combo

I converted a 268 islander from twins to a single verado 350. Everything needs ripped out. Transom wholes have to be glassed closed. New engine holes need drilled. It’s sounds worse than it is The verado is more complicated than most and I rigged mine myself in less than 8 hours doing it but...

One more side note. If this model does not have the full running surface on the bottom It would have to be a very low cost because you would have to go with a very light 4 stroke as Grady redisgned the hull in 2000 to accommodate the 4 stroke weight. But the new mercs may be the ticket

Pay close attention to the aluminum transom cap. If it’s bent or deteriorating it’s not a cheap fix as you have to pull the engine to replace it Make sure the bilge is clean and tap the inside of the stringers as much as you can. Open the access hatches in the euro transom and tap everything...

I did the cap on my 268 Islander. I chose to unrig and pull them both.. I filled the area with 3m vinylester to build up the area for the glass, then I put 3 layers of 1708 mat over a nice radius

I read in another thread about bunk spacing (apart)but was looking if anyone has any measurements from the coupler ball to the first axle for the 268 Islander, Mine has twin 250 OX66 engines. Also where should the bunks end on this since the hull goes the whole way back. Should they go the...

POR 15 is not UV stable and is not really designed for aluminum, it works but I did not get a warm fuzzy when looking at this option when looking to re-do mine, I settled on powder (Above).