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I don't "disagree" with that. However, if you do end up with bilsters, the time spent repairing those if greater than slapping a coat of resin on there which will guarantee you don't get blisters. Re-read my post #9 about this. The variable in play, though, is how much gel you removed due to...

Actually... epoxy not sticking to polyester or vinylester is an old myth. It's been proven that it works just fine in recent years (and I've personally used it a number of times). I use to think that, too! But, you could always use polyester resin if you felt better about that. Just apply...

Tabs are an excellent "tool" to have. They can have a huge impact on getting you onto plane faster... running on plane at a slower speed... correcting listing (more noticeable in a small boat with where people sit)... stopping the porpoising... keeping the bow planted in chop for a smoother...

Its not "shiny" because you were sanding it. You may or may not already have an epoxy barrier coat on there. Not all boats need it and not everyone applies it. However, if you currently don't have blisters, then you should be fine to just correct the area you sanded too far and lay down some...

Yeah, I've been there on things, too! All engines have a small amount of residual oil left in the cylinders that then drains down. In cars/stern drives/inboards the oil drains back into the sump. But because of the vertical nature of OB's, it's not uncommon for that oil to pool in the...

Fantastic! :) :) FYI, I like stouts. Luscious is one of my favorites. Guiness doesn't hold a candle to it! ;)

I suspect there is still some old sticker residue. If this is painted aluminum aluminum you can use acetone. If it's plastic, do not. Either way, you can Goo Gone or Goof Off or even mineral spirits (let it soak for a minute or two) to soften the residue and either wipe it off or use a...

The sender is, by far, the most common culprit. You don't need to remove the gauge to check the sender. But, to your question, on the backside of the gauge there is a nut that you remove that holds the securing bracket on. Either the dash panel is removable with screws or you have to get the...

Nice! The free fixes are the best! We all know that we don't get too many on those ;)

Lucky, have you tried sliding the chair forward and/or back at the same time you're swiveling it to help clear obstacles? That's often needed in boats with tight quarters.

Side note... I use a good quality wool pad for everything. I try to keep things simple when I can... like my mind. Nothing wrong with good foam pads (have always heard good things about Presta, by the way), but you can go down a seriously deep rabbit hole trying to figure out what you need.

All very true. However, there is no reason that the new ones have to match the originals, you know? Get the kind that you like. For example, personally, I don't like the kind with the button thru the lid. They're prone to deteriorating MUCH faster from UV exposure. My main point is...

Guys, don't get too wrapped up in this -- hint, you already are :) -- it's just a dumb switch. On/off. That's all it does. It makes a contact, then breaks that contact. In NO WAY does the windlass, itself, care about brand or model.

Any halfway decent marine store can get them for you. Also, any "windlass foot switch" brand will work. Just double check the size and screw location (although it's no big deal if it's not exact). But there's all kinds of options, even through Lewmar - including SS covers. Look on their...

You can pressurize the tank with a couple pounds of air to see if there's a leak. But, it's EXTREMELY rare for a plastic tank to develop a leak. Hose and fuel sender gasket are the most common culprit. Testing a fuel sender is easy (short the pink wire to ground and gauge should peg full...

You didn't say if it's been this way the whole 7 hours? Assuming yes... look around the battery compartment for a wire not hooked up. As noted, though, contact your dealer. Let them deal with it if you're not comfortable with electrical stuff.

I'm admittedly speaking with no real experience here, but... if you flipped the contraption (forget about the bail for now)... to then get the holes to line up again, you would rotate the contraption's feet/tabs FORWARD which would push the anchor both forward and also allow the anchor to pivot...

You're right - it's welded. I didn't notice that. I still think the problem is they're on backwards, though. Unfortunately, it seems they were installed and THEN the hoop was welded to them. So... back to "Hello, Mr. Dealer" :) They should get a new feet/hoop set. Go look at other similar...

It's probably more due to build up of some dirt/debris/salt. Start by cleaning the shaft really well - even using a mild scrub pad or bronze wool. Do the same to where it inserts and/or anywhere it slides "through". Keeping it clean should really be all you need. Using a metal polish like...

The more likely scenario is that the smell is coming from permeation through old lines. Plus, it was wrapped up tight (I assume you mean shrink wrap) so there really wasn't anywhere for the smell to go. Drive the boat around, sloshing the fuel in the tank... check the bilge for fuel.