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What is the OD of the fitting?

I disagree.

As you fill up, listen closely for a gurgling sound. That's the fuel at the top of the tank. Stop when you hear gurgling. You could install a whistler in the vent line if you wanted to - it's much louder. When the whistling starts to stop, stop filling.

Water and gas follow the same pathway after the engine. It's just a matter of "path of least resistance" thing. I'd call it very normal to see water sometimes and not other times.

There's a tag on the tank that will tell you the capacity. Check that. You can check the specs for the boat on Grady's website or in your manual, but there's always a possibility it was changed over the years. If you do have a 96g tank... Find the manual for the Yamaha gauge... maybe there's...

Actually, Grady is pretty good. Seems like they were nice enough to pre-wire the boat for the USB ports... but Beyond A Wake cheaped out and didn't order the option to have them hooked up ;)

I've never used a torque wrench on any plug ever. I'm not saying it's bad to do it, but I think it all comes down what you're comfortable with and your experience. Tighten till you feel it bottom out and then a 1/4 turn-ish more. If you have any doubts, though, get a torque wrench. It's a...

That's a good theory, too. Actually, probably more likely the answer than my thought since the bottom of the bracket is too high above the hull bottom to really be effective at helping hole shot.

My Grady bracket doesn't, either. It was added to boat somewhere in the early 2000's (boat was originally a stern drive).

It looks like something that someone added to work as a stationary trim tab - a "hull extension".

303 protectant will help with fading if you use it on a regular basis.

The Grady "recommendation" (it's not a requirement) is most likely for salt water. Before you paint, check with others in the same area that don't have bottom paint and see how they're fairing. Don't worry if it's a Grady, or not, that makes no difference what so ever. Another thing to check...

Another option for a mounting plate is to use a large enough aluminum or fiberglass "L" - secure one leg to a stringer and the other leg turns into a "shelf". Like above, though... there's more than one way to do it. (3) pieces of HDPE can do the same thing... (2) to make the "L", one attached...

Put the "emergency" pump (which is usually a higher GPH capacity) on the bilge floor. Put the float switch about 3 or 4 inches higher. I would still use a manual switch, as well, for backup in case the switch fails.

I think you're on the right track. Securing the plank (best you can, anyways) at the DOCK end would probably be good. Some thick rubber or dense foam under the end of plank where it would contact the dock should help to keep it from slipping. You could install some quick release brackets/pins...

Actually, having an engine on a bracket improves performance since it has more "leverage" against the boat. For a small boat, 9x12 is certainly adequate... but, yes, bigger can't hurt. FYI, span has more impact than chord.

Things ALWAYS work the time before they stop working... ;) You're right that if the fuse at the dash is good (and the switch is good) then the most likely issue is the pump, itself. It's highly unlikely (although not impossible) that both wiring circuits are faulty. If you are getting 12V to...

On the other hand... just put it where it makes the most sense for you.

I don't, but since you didn't remove the fuel hoses, wouldn't you be able to find where it mounts by where the fuel lines meet up? Then, there should be holes there that match the valve and sep head.

Probably in one of the boxes under one of the fwd seats? I would assume the aerator (or remnants of) is still there... did you look?