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I was gonna say swap key switches and see if it moves. Do they plug in or do you have to cut wires?

Mine was smaller...about 9x6 https://www.greatgrady.com/threads/265-mods.25902/post-196921

Get rid of those McGill Euro oval switches! They Suck! And you'll never find enough replacements. Be aware...The holes for those switches are smaller than the Contura switches of today. I'm a "do-it yourselfer" but I used New Wire and redesigned my new panel with etched/lighted LED Contura...

Hmm! never heard of that. Doesn't look useful at all.

" Part of that, I _think_, is pushing fluid through the auto pilot (can anyone offer an opinion on that?)" ....NO, its not from pushing fluid thru the AP. What knob? On what screen? idk what you are saying... "Grid 20"??? You mean GHC20? This will control the AP with the left /right...

The shelf was attached by giant staples shot through the wall that the fuel tank valve is mounted on. Then they put one layer of glass on top of the shelf, glassing it to that wall and to the hull side. Leaving a 1 inch ledge would be a good way of doing it. You will then need a new plywood...

ya that would work...it would just raise the batteries the thickness of the shelf ...but theres room.

I re-screwed the ledge (it had giant staples originally) into the thick forward wall and glued a ledge onto the hull wall. So the shelf sits on the stringer and those two ledges... (three sides) Do NOT screw into the balsa cored hull wall! I did not re-glass the shelf. Figure I'll be in there...

no. In the wire harness from the motors. They are tagged NMEA PWR

Yes, there is a Gray & Black pair labeled specifically for N2k power. They have bullet connectors. The diagram doesn't show it but there should be a fuse on the Power T red wire. Put a male bullet on that and a female on the black.

So you're done? Have been for a ride?

It might be that the N2k circuitry inside the gauges does not work without n2k power. That would kind of make sense.

hehehe I was just going to ask if you see the gauges on the network. I would connect the keyed N2k power using a power T. Make sure the zuke stuff is on one side of the isolator and the rest of the network on the other.

By engine data you mean Tach, trim, Fuel Tank Levels (This is put on the N2k by the gauges if the fuel senders are connected to the Suzuki harness)? On N2K not all engine data is in the "Engine Parameters" PGN on the network. You won't see error codes and oil pressure and things like that. Its...

Need some clarification... MFDs? You mean the gauges or your Raymarine MFD? The motors are on and he gave you back the boat and you run the motors and don't see engine data? That can't be right... I can't find the diagram I'm looking for that shows the isolator and separate power for the...

There is no right answer. IMO put them up and pull the fuse. Use your motor trim

You're not screwing into the hull. There is wood in the area just in front of the garboard drain. Right where Grady screwed the OEM bilge pump.

I think BoatWorksToday had a youtube video on making a replacement hatch

must be confused by the Kicker motor throttle?

The pump mounting area has a piece of plywood glassed in. It might be pretty wet by now. 1/2" screw is plenty. The rest of the hull is solid glass. Don't screw into that.