192 opinions

[JWR]

Hello. I have 1995 tournament 192 that has a slight flex in the floor where the tank is. Doesn’t smash in, just a little flex. It has the sealed floor with the outline around tank area, no easily removable access hatch. (Why’s that?) I’ve read a lot of threads on a lot of sites. Being an older boat, I’m not sure if it’s serious enough to warrant much expense in fixing right now or if at all. Overall the boat is in nice shape. Now to the main point, and though we like the boat, I was looking at perhaps selling to upgrade but someone said my hull is literally worthless due to this spot that seems to be rather common in a lot of boats, not just Grady’s. I can’t make myself believe it’s worthless as a hull. It rides great and looks good for it’s age. Sure there are some dings and blemishes but most do have these with age. Anyone ever just scrap theirs over this? (Mostly solid feeling floor except that one area from what I can find.) TIA

 

[deznan]

If yours has the two round inspection covers, one fore & one aft in the cover you may be able to put a light in there and maybe an inspection mirror and investigate. If not remove the screws around the tank cover and take a razor knife and remove the sealant so you can pull it up and take a look. It shouldn't cause this issue, but it would be a good idea to check out the tank on a '95 model and hope your tank is good. I have a '93 and the tank was installed before the inner liner and the tank was bigger than the hole in the floor which required either removing the inner liner, aka the top of the boat, or cutting it apart in place (my option) and have a tank built. GW will send you the tank drawing and mine even had a note to have the new tank made shorter for re-install.

 

[seasick]

Are you saying that the deck has to be cut to remove the deck over the tank?
That does add cost and labor to the job. I assume that this sponginess is something new in which case you need to decide what work makes sense. If you are selling, I wouldn't put money into it, just adjust the price for the issue. The real question is if there is stringer rot under the deck. In addition the springiness may eventually result in the fiberglass cracking which can make the repair even more expensive. As to the comment that the boat is worthless as is, I doubt it. The market is quite good for selling, not so good for buying.
Remember that you do not have to tell buyers about issues but you legally can't lie. If someone notes the deck flex, just say you noticed that and don't know what is going on.

 

[Parthery]

Pretty sure that era 192 has a poly tank, not aluminum, which is why GW didn't leave a panel to remove. The access panels are to get to the sending unit and hoses.

The boat is definitely not worthless....

I don't think you have a stringer issue...you may have an issue where the deck is just spongy after almost 30 years. If you have the port side jumpseat, you could remove it and cut a hole to access the spongy area. Make the repair, add an access plate to cover the opening, and reinstall the seat.

 

[JWR]

Thanks for the input so far. There is no easy access so I’m also assuming a poly tank. The person telling me that the hull is worthless knows I’m considering selling and likely exaggerating things to beat me down. (Seems he dabbles in boat deals and may be looking to work a turnaround resale of sorts). I’ve only noticed this issue in one small spot inside the scored rectangle indicating the tank area. If I do sell, seems prices are typically $10-$14k from what I’ve found. Mine has 4 stroke Yamaha with low hours. Thanks again.

 

[seasick]

There is definitely an access plate aft to get to the tank sender. If you pop that access plate you will see the sender flange and some of the tank. It will be obvious if the tank is poly, You may need to wipe off the grime though.

I was going to comment about the person who said it was worthless. I immediately figured he was going to make a lowball offer. Do your homework on other listings for comparison.