1984 22’ seafarer kicker mount questions

Jrodlive

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Looks like this is the right forum to be on with my recently purchased 1984 Grady white 22’ seafarer! I have a question regarding a garlick installed kicker mount on the port side. I noticed the kicker mount mounting hardware only goes into the transom of the wood only not all the way through and 1 out of 4 mounting bolts had let some water in and made that portion of the transom a little soft. I was thinking of putting a complete thru transom mounting bolts and nuts so they go through the entire transom, into the compartment where the battery’s are. Is this typically how they should be installed? I will also be doing a little epoxy injection on the soft spot, although I’m not too worried about it because it’s not too far gone. Thanks for any insight!
 

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Looks like this is the right forum to be on with my recently purchased 1984 Grady white 22’ seafarer! I have a question regarding a garlick installed kicker mount on the port side. I noticed the kicker mount mounting hardware only goes into the transom of the wood only not all the way through and 1 out of 4 mounting bolts had let some water in and made that portion of the transom a little soft. I was thinking of putting a complete thru transom mounting bolts and nuts so they go through the entire transom, into the compartment where the battery’s are. Is this typically how they should be installed? I will also be doing a little epoxy injection on the soft spot, although I’m not too worried about it because it’s not too far gone. Thanks for any insight!
Wet transoms are not uncommon. The plywood doesn't go to mush immediately. It still has strength - thru bolt it. But plan to repair that transom down the road.
 
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Jrodlive

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I’m hear ya! Hoping with minimal use and constantly keeping it covered will buy me time on the transom repairs. I think it will be a little tricky for the nuts to seat properly against the inside fiberglass located in the battery bay. The Fiberglass in there doesn’t seem to be a true flat to match the exterior so when mounting the bolts they won’t seat flush against the fiberglass. I might have to make a custom plate for the inside to distribute the weight of all 4 bolts.
 

DennisG01

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Put a piece of plywood on the inside of the transom - the slight softness of the plywood will take up the uneveness (including on the washer/nut). It won't be perfect but it will be totally fine. Come back a a few days or weeks later and check to see if you can tighten a little more. Have someone hold the bolt head securely so you don't break the caulk seal.
 
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Jrodlive

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Put a piece of plywood on the inside of the transom - the slight softness of the plywood will take up the uneveness (including on the washer/nut). It won't be perfect but it will be totally fine. Come back a a few days or weeks later and check to see if you can tighten a little more. Have someone hold the bolt head securely so you don't break the caulk seal.
Loving the idea. The theory sounds like it will do the trick for me considering the battery kill switch is mounted in the vacinity of where the plywood would go. The plywood would allow me to remount the battery switch to it also. I am open to this idea and more feedback from others. Thanks!!
Another food for thought.. once I back the original mounting bolts out, is there a decent injectable resin or epoxy to gain back some strength in the area that’s weak? It would have to be an epoxy or resin that’s viscous enough to fill any voids without overheating or expanding in which causes any cosmetic damage. She’s shiny and I want to keep her that way!