1986 Seafarer 226 stringer replacement

Mig33157

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Well hello everyone,
I finally jumped in the hole and started digging with a seafarer 226. I got it fairly cheap and I’m going to be replacing the stringers, transom, and hopefully adding a 4 stroke and platform to the end of the build… If all goes well and we get to the end build. I’ll start posting current photos of where I’m at tomorrow. Currently gas tank, water tank, and rear live wells are gone. Going to be debating how to remove floor from the cabin back to fully expose the stringers for a proper replacement job. I’ve been having issues finding info on the lifting the cap, I live in Miami Fl and had some recommended fiberglass guy come and say that’s the way to go. Problem is I haven’t seen any photos or forums where they give a good detail of where to start etc. I’m figuring just removing the floor from the cabin back to replace the stringers to that truss.
Yes I know to some people it’s not worth it but I’m fairly young and I’ll be keeping this vessel till my family and I are in a comfortable spot to purchase our forever boat. Regardless I would like all advice and criticism as any info would be appreciated.
 

glacierbaze

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I don’t know anyone who has gone from their first boat to their forever boat.

You are fairly young, and I am fairly old, but I think that we are both at a similar stage when it comes to boating, and that is, enjoy it while you can!
If you can knock this project out in a few months, I say go for it, and good luck! If your kids are at an age where they are ready to enjoy boating now, any boat is better than the one sitting under a tarp in the backyard for the next two years.

Check your messages in the envelope icon at top right.
 
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Mig33157

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Well guys here’s the current progress as of today, both rear livewells have been removed. Need to pull all the rigging out and prepare for floor removal. I’m just now debating wether removing the floor with the two front coolers/storage attached, or removing the front coolers/storage from the floor then removing the floor section left. Thinking if I push to get it all removed together it’ll be easier to glass back in. Now I’m stressing over staying plywood and glassing the hell out of it so it last another 30-40years or going foam or coosa…
 

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DennisG01

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Does your cockpit floor extend into the cabin? Meaning, is that all one piece? Where are you going to cut the cockpit floor?

Did you verify that the stringers are actually bad? And, where are they bad - or, in other words, how far forward are they bad?

Have you considered just scabbing new stringers alongside the existing ones and then getting a new, slightly smaller, gas tank? You're probably due for one of those anyways if it hasn't been recently replaced. Or cut/modify the existing.

I'll get you some pictures later of how I cut out my floor and re-did some things.
 
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Mig33157

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Does your cockpit floor extend into the cabin? Meaning, is that all one piece? Where are you going to cut the cockpit floor?

Did you verify that the stringers are actually bad? And, where are they bad - or, in other words, how far forward are they bad?

Have you considered just scabbing new stringers alongside the existing ones and then getting a new, slightly smaller, gas tank? You're probably due for one of those anyways if it hasn't been recently replaced. Or cut/modify the existing.

I'll get you some pictures later of how I cut out my floor and re-did some things.
I’ll definitely appreciate the photos just to get a comparison and ideas, I’ll post now the photos of the deteriorated stringers I can literally put my finger all the way through the stringer from the top down. As Glacierblaze stated (if my kids were old enough to enjoy it now) they are 1yr 8months old so I have some time to get it ship shape and ready. So I rather just replaced the stringers foam etc.
 

Mig33157

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Well I’ll take more photos later but this is the main stringer starboard side next to the fuel tank. They drilled a bunch of holes into the stringers without sealing anything which is where I think a lot of the moisture/water got in. Especially since the fuel tank area was completely sealed so water would get stuck inside that coffin. Is it supposed to be sealed out like that I understand the top cutouts would have 5200 around the edges waterproofing it but if water does make it in shouldn’t it be able to reach the rear bilge?
 

Mig33157

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Having issues with some some pics
 

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DennisG01

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Yikes. Yeah, that section is at least completely shot. I'm sure the rot migrated forward - how far is anyone's guess. But it might be worthwhile to at least do some more core samples moving forward (top and bottom of stringer) - if you haven't already. It might save you a bunch of time and effort if the forward section is still good.

Yes, the coffin should drain - it should have a separate hole through the bulkhead than the tube that runs from the cabin (and/or the forward coffin), though.
 

Mig33157

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Yikes. Yeah, that section is at least completely shot. I'm sure the rot migrated forward - how far is anyone's guess. But it might be worthwhile to at least do some more core samples moving forward (top and bottom of stringer) - if you haven't already. It might save you a bunch of time and effort if the forward section is still good.

Yes, the coffin should drain - it should have a separate hole through the bulkhead than the tube that runs from the cabin (and/or the forward coffin), though.
I’m planning to do some samples on the stringer right before the bulkhead underneath the cockpit/cabin entrance I was hoping that I had some good wood right before the bulkhead to focus on the stringers in the aft section.

for some reason my tank coffin was completely sealed, I’ll make sure to get some drainage to the rear. I’ll post what I find in the stringer samples later today so I can start planning the floor cutting process/area.
 

seasick

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The tank coffin is sealed by design. The theory is that if the tank leaks, the fuel should not leak into the bilge. There should be a tube that runs from the foward bilge area to the aft bilge. That drain tube often will run under the tank area.

Inspecting/repairing all the stringers is hard to do without either cutting out the entire deck or separating the deck mold from the hull mold. I would prefer the later since it would expose the entire length of all the stringers. That said, it will be no easy task to remove the deck mold.

Regarding repairs, I don't know what your skill set is for fiberglass work. Mine is pretty limited but I can suggest that you take a look at the Boatworks Today You tube channel
. Many of the older videos address exactly the things you will need to do and the tricks to getting them done right.
 
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DennisG01

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The tank coffin is sealed by design. The theory is that if the tank leaks, the fuel should not leak into the bilge. There should be a tube that runs from the foward bilge area to the aft bilge. That drain tube often will run under the tank area.
The thought process is solid. However I know that mine (an older boat, like Mig's) is not and has the original pass-thru hole. Or... at least I think it does... I'd have to verify that to say 100% now that you mentioned what you did.

BUT... I see a lot of boats in my line of work. More of the pleasure boat kind than fishing, but NONE of those (and I see a few hundred a year) have a sealed gas tank area. Even brand new ones aren't.

But that said, whether it does/doesn't... I would absolutely prefer to have it drain.
 

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The more I think about it, the less convinced I am that I am correct about sealed coffins. For example, Grady recommends that you rinse the tank off every now and then and I have (albeit more 'then' than 'now') and the water apparently went somewhere:)
Is it possible that the design is for leakage to drain aft only and not forward? Why is there a drainage pipe that links the forward bilge to the aft bilge?
 

Mig33157

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I
The more I think about it, the less convinced I am that I am correct about sealed coffins. For example, Grady recommends that you rinse the tank off every now and then and I have (albeit more 'then' than 'now') and the water apparently went somewhere:)
Is it possible that the design is for leakage to drain aft only and not forward? Why is there a drainage pipe that links the forward bilge to the aft bilge?
I was planning on sealing it but leaving drain holes within pvc drain line running from the bow to the stern just in case water does make it in if that makes sense, the bilge pump should kick on before the water level rises enough to bring the water into the tank coffin. I’m planning on a new aluminum tank so I shouldn’t be to worried for gas leaks.
 

Mig33157

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Update:
I cut out the rear section and sides I’ll attach the photos later tonight once I’m done cutting, I said F it and I’m cutting in a manner to try and remove the floor in two half sections to keep the coolers attached to the floor so I can come back in and fiberglass the two sections together. I saw that the floor is just bonded with some fiberglass mat to the stringers and I did a little investigative prying and she looks like I just might get her off with out to much of an issue. Just trying to determine my cut for the bulkhead right under the cabin entrance.

I also need advice to I can start prepping how to attach the stringers to the hull. I’ve seen some methods but what do you guys think? I was thinking some 1/2” foam and some “peanut butter” let me know what y’all think.
 

Mig33157

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Well let’s see how bad I did with cutting my line lmao… I decided I would like to mat the sidewall to reduce some vibration that it had previously if that makes any sense how I’m trying to describe it. I’m ready for the criticism! ‍♂️
 

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wrxhoon

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The more I think about it, the less convinced I am that I am correct about sealed coffins. For example, Grady recommends that you rinse the tank off every now and then and I have (albeit more 'then' than 'now') and the water apparently went somewhere:)
Is it possible that the design is for leakage to drain aft only and not forward? Why is there a drainage pipe that links the forward bilge to the aft bilge?
I owned two 228's, 1998 and 2013 models and they don't have sealed coffins.
 

DennisG01

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The more I think about it, the less convinced I am that I am correct about sealed coffins. For example, Grady recommends that you rinse the tank off every now and then and I have (albeit more 'then' than 'now') and the water apparently went somewhere:)
Is it possible that the design is for leakage to drain aft only and not forward? Why is there a drainage pipe that links the forward bilge to the aft bilge?
That would ABSOLUTELY make sense. While it would be mildly possible for coffin "fluid" to drain into the aft bilge and then forward into the cabin through the drainage pipe, at least the coffin fluid wouldn't have a direct route right into the cabin bilge.
 

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Looks good and nice job. The only thing To consider is full length piano hinges.

tx,
dr
 

DennisG01

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Looks good and nice job. The only thing To consider is full length piano hinges.

tx,
dr
Yup - those are definitely a step up. They were in the plan, but I ended up being on a time crunch and got the ones pictured. They're pretty beefy, though, and have held up nicely.