Re: 1989 204 Overnighter w/ 04' yamaha *New Boat*
The floor panel isn't all that wide. If properly built, it won't need supports under it.
I did some work on a 204 Overnighter last winter. It included (among other thins) pulling and resealing the access panel, replacing the tank sending unit and taking a few other steps to ensure a long tank life.
The access panel did have some water intrustion and rot, but it seemed fairly solid and my opinion it had a few more years before requiring a recore.
The tank looked like this when the hatch was pulled.
The bottom of each one of those 2x4s had some neoprene/rubber strips stapled to them. On occasion water was getting under these strips due to a bad seal around the hatch and spots of corrosion were starting to form (the tank only has a primer applied, no protective epoxy coating).
I cut down the strips to about 2" x 3-1/2" and bonded them to the tank using 4200. This will ensure not water gets under them.
Due to poor installation when the tank was replaced, I had to cut some new 2x4s to span the tank. I'm not exactly sure why these are even there because a series of wooden wedges are what hold the tank itself down. Screwed to the 2x4s was some plywood risers that look to be to designed support the access panel. Not good. Since the tank was not level, I put some more of my resized neoprene/rubber strips on top of the ones on the tank to level out the 2x4s, and then I cut down the risers so the panel would fit in place. This created an nice air gap between the 2x4s and the tank. No chance of water getting trapped there. I also eased the cutouts in the risers were the vent lined passed throug to prevent any sort of chafing on that line.
Quite a few of the screw holes for the hatch were stripped out, so I lamined some solid glass blocks and bonded them to the underside of the lip to provide a solid surface for the screws to bite into.
Hatch fastened in place (screws were either sealed with 4200 or 5200...I dont' remember) and taped for caulking.
Caulked with 4000UV. Done.
As for the hatch itself, I like to rebuild them this way...
After all the bad core has been removed, cut the new core (I use regular 1/2" ply) so there is about a 1-1/2" gap around the edges and make it a 45 degree cut. This allows the glass to wrap over the edge w/out voids and isolates the core from any possible water intrustion from leaking screw holes. This particular panel has 2 layers of 1708 (I think) over the entire thing, with two additional layers down around the edges for strength.
The hardest part was removing the old core. :cry: