1990 Grady White 232 Gulfstream

[adcaplan8]

Hey guys,

First time poster here! I've been in the market for a boat for a while now, but have been struggling to find one that fits my budget and wants/needs.

I just looked at a 1990 Grady White 232.

The Good:
Boat was repowered in 2017 with twin Suzuki 140's. They currently have 250 hours.
Custom welded aluminum Auxiliary fuel tank (55 gal) was just built (not installed)

The Bad:
Original GPS/Transducer/Radar etc.
No Radio (VHF or AM/FM)
Main fuel tank is original (strong gas fume, probably needs to be replaced)
Hull looks like it hasn't seen compound or wax in many years
Bottom paint is beat, needs to be sanded and refinished
Bow pulpit in rough shape. Many deep cracks

Trailer is in decent shape, but will need 4 new tires and a spare added.

Seller is asking 20k. I am no stranger to boat work and am not afraid to get my hands dirty.
My plan would be:
4 new tires on the trailer + 2 new spares. I am estimating $500 for this.
Then, install the new auxiliary fuel tank, pull the main tank and get it rebuilt. Estimating $2,000.
Then, buy & install garmin GPS and radar. Estimating $2,000
Next, new VHF, antenna, AM/FM radio, and speakers. Estimating $750
2 new Batteries - Estimating $400
Bottom paint, sandpaper, tarp, wax, compound etc. Estimating $500

This would put me just about 26k into the boat, assuming I paid full price, with newer engines, new fuel tanks, tires, batteries and electronics.
I'm thinking at this point, it would be a lot of boat for the money..

I also have some concerns about the bracket, transom, and stringers as this is a 34 year old. I purchased a moisture meter and intended on using it, but wasn't really sure where to begin on the boat. When I opened the main hatches, all I could see was the fuel tanks fiber glassed in and no stringers visible. Are the stringers under the fuel tank compartment? Is there any access?
I am considering getting a surveyor to inspect the hull, stringers, transom and bracket for moisture and delamination, but really wanted a second opinion on the deal before proceeding.
Is there anything else that I should consider? I know this boat is heavy and I have done my research, I figurer newer twins will be enough to push this boat around, but also understand I wont be going anywhere at 50 knots.

Is it concerning that the bottom of the floor boards are moldy, or is this normal?

 

[Mustang65fbk]

A few things here... I think you're on the right track with the surveyor bit, as I always recommend anyone get a surveyor before purchasing a higher dollar item like a boat, car, house and so forth. Second, a 1990 model year is going to be the older SeaV1 hull as opposed to the newer, and imo more desirable SeaV2 hull design that Grady White is known for and still makes to this day. On top of that, before I believe it was 1997 GW was using standard marine grade plywood in their boats as opposed to the later boats which had a product called Greenwood XL. Which is supposedly a bit better at resisting rot, though they can still have issues on boats with repeated water intrusion and so forth. My opinion would be that if you're admittedly going to be close to $30k when all is said and done, I'd honestly just put that towards a boat with a considerably newer hull that hopefully has fewer issues and is a SeaV2 hull design as opposed to an earlier SeaV1. For $30k, you're definitely not going to get a newer hull and newer power, but you should be able to get a newer hull with used 4 stroke power in that $30k+ range. Attached is a boat in Florida that has a pending offer on it, but for an extra $10k more than what you'll have into the boat you're looking at, I'd consider something newer instead. Either that, or if the motors and trailer check out on the boat you're looking at, you could always keep both and part out or sell the hull by itself, then put those things onto a different boat if you chose to do that. Just my opinions of course, though I admittedly try to buy the newest hull that I can afford and go from there. I also think that your figure of $26k total is going to be a bit optimistic.

https://www.boattrader.com/boat/2004-grady-white-gulfstream-232-9304693/

 

[seasick]

I think some of your estimates are too low. The fuel tank will cost more than 2000.
So will a Garmin plotter with a radar unit. The radar alone will run 2k and up. Depending on the age of the trailer, it probably will need more than just rubber. The trailer is the least of your worries
Since you say you don't know where to start, I recommend a surveyor. That said, asking here for advice is a good move because you will get lots (hopefully) of feedback that maybe you don't want to hire a surveyor and just keep looking
You may be buying a money pit especially if you are new to boating and if that is true, never buy a boat that you can't do a sea trial. At a minimum you need to know that it floats and the motors run.

 

[Mustang65fbk]

I think some of your estimates are too low. The fuel tank will cost more than 2000.
So will a Garmin plotter with a radar unit. The radar alone will run 2k and up. Depending on the age of the trailer, it probably will need more than just rubber. The trailer is the least of your worries
Since you say you don't know where to start, I recommend a surveyor. That said, asking here for advice is a good move because you will get lots (hopefully) of feedback that maybe you don't want to hire a surveyor and just keep looking
You may be buying a money pit especially if you are new to boating and if that is true, never buy a boat that you can't do a sea trial. At a minimum you need to know that it floats and the motors run.

I would disagree on the radar itself being above $2k. You can get a basic Garmin radar for around $1,500 or less if you look around online, or they've even got them on clearance sites for $1,100-$1,200. You could also get a bare bones fish finder for less than $200, or the cheapest current Garmin MFD that I can see is only around $400. So, depending on your needs and your budget, you could get by for around $2k for both, especially if you shopped around a bit. Not that I would necessarily go as cheap as possible in this particular situation as those things are meant oftentimes for safety, but if that's what the OP wanted to do then it can be done. I will agree though in that I think if the OP pays full asking price at $20k, that his figure of only $26k total when all is said and done is going to be very optimistic.

 

[Fishtales]

Might want to pressure test the tank you have prior to install. Electronics is electronics you can spend a lot or a little. As Rumsfeld once said (modified for boats)....
There are known knowns; there are things we know we know. We also know there are known unknowns; that is to say we know there are some things we do not know. But there are also unknown unknowns—the ones we don't know we don't know. And if one looks throughout the history of boat purchases, it is the latter category that tends to be the difficult ones. I think the latter is your biggest risk with a boat of that vintage.

 

[adcaplan8]

Might want to pressure test the tank you have prior to install. Electronics is electronics you can spend a lot or a little. As Rumsfeld once said (modified for boats)....
There are known knowns; there are things we know we know. We also know there are known unknowns; that is to say we know there are some things we do not know. But there are also unknown unknowns—the ones we don't know we don't know. And if one looks throughout the history of boat purchases, it is the latter category that tends to be the difficult ones. I think the latter is your biggest risk with a boat of that vintage.

Initially, I was planning on doing this at 2 PSI, however, after reading a few threads on TheHullTruth, a lot of members are suggesting that pressure testing can cause ruptures on otherwise good tanks. Is this not a concern of yours?

 

[adcaplan8]

I would disagree on the radar itself being above $2k. You can get a basic Garmin radar for around $1,500 or less if you look around online, or they've even got them on clearance sites for $1,100-$1,200. You could also get a bare bones fish finder for less than $200, or the cheapest current Garmin MFD that I can see is only around $400. So, depending on your needs and your budget, you could get by for around $2k for both, especially if you shopped around a bit. Not that I would necessarily go as cheap as possible in this particular situation as those things are meant oftentimes for safety, but if that's what the OP wanted to do then it can be done. I will agree though in that I think if the OP pays full asking price at $20k, that his figure of only $26k total when all is said and done is going to be very optimistic.

I was looking at the Garmin GPSMAP 743xsv Combo GPS/Fishfinder GN+ W/GMR 18HD+. It is listed on Boemarine for $2,000. I don't want to change the topic of the thread to electronics, but any thoughts on this combo unit?

 

[adcaplan8]

I think some of your estimates are too low. The fuel tank will cost more than 2000.
So will a Garmin plotter with a radar unit. The radar alone will run 2k and up. Depending on the age of the trailer, it probably will need more than just rubber. The trailer is the least of your worries
Since you say you don't know where to start, I recommend a surveyor. That said, asking here for advice is a good move because you will get lots (hopefully) of feedback that maybe you don't want to hire a surveyor and just keep looking
You may be buying a money pit especially if you are new to boating and if that is true, never buy a boat that you can't do a sea trial. At a minimum you need to know that it floats and the motors run.

The trailer IS the least of my worries definitely. I have worked on many trailers. The trailer is in good shape. Good wood, good carpet, new winch, jack, lights + wiring, and bearings/brakes are in good shape upon inspection. Tires are 4 years old with no spare, so would just feel a bit more comfortable with newer rubber on it before pulling it the long distance home...I know this boat is heavy.

"That said, asking here for advice is a good move because you will get lots (hopefully) of feedback that maybe you don't want to hire a surveyor and just keep looking
You may be buying a money pit especially if you are new to boating and if that is true, never buy a boat that you can't do a sea trial. At a minimum you need to know that it floats and the motors run."

This was part of my intention of posting here. Before purchasing, I will definitely have a survey with the age of this hull, but I'm at a crossroads and am unsure if it is even worth surveying. I know the transom/stringers/bracket are all original. I almost feel like I'm throwing money in the trash with the survey. I have read a lot about these boats having fiberglass issues. I mean really, what are the chances that this 34 year old hull is dry? Probably 0, no hull is dry from what I understand. What are the chances it has an acceptable level of moisture after all this time? That is really what I am trying to gauge based off of others experiences.

Ran both motors on muffs, they idle real nice and quiet. The seller is also open to a sea trial, I just did not have time on the initial visit to the boat. I have had a few boats before, most recently an 18' Wahoo and a 23' proline before that. Both were older hulls with older motors. I inspected them myself and was comfortable with my findings, but they were also in a different price range in a different market (pre covid).

 

[adcaplan8]

A few things here... I think you're on the right track with the surveyor bit, as I always recommend anyone get a surveyor before purchasing a higher dollar item like a boat, car, house and so forth. Second, a 1990 model year is going to be the older SeaV1 hull as opposed to the newer, and imo more desirable SeaV2 hull design that Grady White is known for and still makes to this day. On top of that, before I believe it was 1997 GW was using standard marine grade plywood in their boats as opposed to the later boats which had a product called Greenwood XL. Which is supposedly a bit better at resisting rot, though they can still have issues on boats with repeated water intrusion and so forth. My opinion would be that if you're admittedly going to be close to $30k when all is said and done, I'd honestly just put that towards a boat with a considerably newer hull that hopefully has fewer issues and is a SeaV2 hull design as opposed to an earlier SeaV1. For $30k, you're definitely not going to get a newer hull and newer power, but you should be able to get a newer hull with used 4 stroke power in that $30k+ range. Attached is a boat in Florida that has a pending offer on it, but for an extra $10k more than what you'll have into the boat you're looking at, I'd consider something newer instead. Either that, or if the motors and trailer check out on the boat you're looking at, you could always keep both and part out or sell the hull by itself, then put those things onto a different boat if you chose to do that. Just my opinions of course, though I admittedly try to buy the newest hull that I can afford and go from there. I also think that your figure of $26k total is going to be a bit optimistic.

https://www.boattrader.com/boat/2004-grady-white-gulfstream-232-9304693/

I appreciate your insight. I have read about the Greenwood XL, but like you said, it seems like this still can have its rot issues. I would obviously prefer the Seav2 hull, but, I am not finding any with new motors in this price range. The boat you linked is obviously in much better shape and newer than the one I am looking at, however I am concerned about buying a boat with 2004 Yamahas that have 2000+ hours. If I'm spending 40k list on a boat, It is definitely not in my budget to do serious engine work or even repower. This is why I tend to drift towards repowered older hulls. I have thought about buying the boat just for the engines and trailer, then seeing what I could get for the boat, however, I am having a hard time finding hulls in need of a repower in my area. I would hate to spend 15k and have two motors and a trailer sit for 1-2 years before I can find the right hull to put them on.

The good news is, the boat was originally listed for 20k, but the seller messaged me last night saying he is dropping the price to 18k. I think with a current list of 18k, it sounds like he has some room to wiggle. If I can get the seller down to the 15-16k range I am thinking it is at least worth a survey at this point. With all of my estimations plus a bit more $$ for a fuel tank and gps/radar combo it could put me at about 22k all in. Is this more enticing of a deal/opportunity to you or would you still prefer a newer hull with older power?

 

[Hookup1]

I'm convinced that most GW's of this vintage have wet transoms. That doesn't mean they are falling off anytime soon but it's coming. Look for signs of movement - inside and out. Around the rub rails, motor well, inside cracking around the transom. Make sure stringers are not separating from the transom. Check inside bracket to see its dry. A transom will be a $10,000 project unless you do it yourself.

Don't waste your time on the main fuel tank - replace it. Given it's age and strong fuel smell its due.

The new motors are worth the purchase price. I recommend sea trial to make sure they run right and the temps are in the right place.

Check out or repack the wheel bearing, the tires and inflation before a long tow.

 

[Hookup1]

I was looking at the Garmin GPSMAP 743xsv Combo GPS/Fishfinder GN+ W/GMR 18HD+. It is listed on Boemarine for $2,000. I don't want to change the topic of the thread to electronics, but any thoughts on this combo unit?

The 743xsv/943xsv and 1243xsv are very good units. The radar is too. Go for the largest of the three that fits your dash and your wallet. They all have the same screen resolution. With multifunction displays its easier to see.

 

[Gonso]

Do not waste your time or money on a boat with an SV1 hull. Find a boat with the SV 2 hull. It will be a superior ride and is what gives the Grady its reputation. Also I can’t speak for the 232 but on my Seafarer the main tank was installed first and then the fiberglass . That resulted in the deck plate opening being 1 inch smaller then the tank. The only way to remove it was to cut the fiberglass way back ,remove and install the tank and then reglass. Not easy and not cheap. The aux tank can be removed easier by first removing the water tank and then sliding out the aux tank. That may be why the aux tank is being replaced and not the main. Can you say MONEY PIT.

 

[Mustang65fbk]

I was looking at the Garmin GPSMAP 743xsv Combo GPS/Fishfinder GN+ W/GMR 18HD+. It is listed on Boemarine for $2,000. I don't want to change the topic of the thread to electronics, but any thoughts on this combo unit?

I like Garmin and will likely always run Garmin electronics at this point. When I first bought my boat, it came with a basic older 7' touchscreen Garmin unit that went belly up on me when I did a software/maps update. It was from around 2010-2013, so it was anywhere from 10-12 years old at the time I purchased the boat in 2021 and then it went out on me in the summer of 2022. I used the 7" Garmin touchscreen a couple different times before it went out on me and while a 7" screen will work, it does leave a bit to the imagination. Because of that, I actually upgraded to a Garmin 943xsv, of which I like it much more, and I don't think I'd want to go with a smaller screen after buying it. As mentioned, you can still get by with a 7" screen like the 743xsv, but I'd spend the extra money and get the 943xsv and radar, which I think is around $800. Or at least I found them on Google for around $2,800. If you haven't yet, go to your local West Marine, Garmin dealer or whomever and look at MFD's to see which size you think might be best for you. I'd also get the dimensions of the unit off the Garmin site, make up a cardboard or paper template and put it on either the boat or just visualize it in general to see if you think it'll suit your needs. I'm glad I upgraded to the 9" screen and at the time, the difference between the 743xsv and the 943xsv was only a couple hundred dollars. So, it was an easy decision for me. The 943xsv radar combo doesn't seem like much in terms of savings, so it might be more cost effective to buy them both separately. In regards to the 943xsv itself, I like it. It does everything I need it to and then some. With having traditional, chirp and SideVu sonar, I've not had any complaints or issues with it.

 

[Mustang65fbk]

I appreciate your insight. I have read about the Greenwood XL, but like you said, it seems like this still can have its rot issues. I would obviously prefer the Seav2 hull, but, I am not finding any with new motors in this price range. The boat you linked is obviously in much better shape and newer than the one I am looking at, however I am concerned about buying a boat with 2004 Yamahas that have 2000+ hours. If I'm spending 40k list on a boat, It is definitely not in my budget to do serious engine work or even repower. This is why I tend to drift towards repowered older hulls. I have thought about buying the boat just for the engines and trailer, then seeing what I could get for the boat, however, I am having a hard time finding hulls in need of a repower in my area. I would hate to spend 15k and have two motors and a trailer sit for 1-2 years before I can find the right hull to put them on.

The good news is, the boat was originally listed for 20k, but the seller messaged me last night saying he is dropping the price to 18k. I think with a current list of 18k, it sounds like he has some room to wiggle. If I can get the seller down to the 15-16k range I am thinking it is at least worth a survey at this point. With all of my estimations plus a bit more $$ for a fuel tank and gps/radar combo it could put me at about 22k all in. Is this more enticing of a deal/opportunity to you or would you still prefer a newer hull with older power?

Per the ad on Boat Trader, it says the outboards have 1,044 hours on them. I personally wouldn't want a hull of that age, especially as mentioned before because it is the SeaV1 hull, and not the newer and more desirable SeaV2 hull. I also don't really need a 232 Gulfstream with twin motors on it for the area that I fish in because I do most of my fishing and boating during the summer, of which the Puget Sound is relatively protected waters, not the open ocean. On top of that, I compare prices to what I spent on my boat back in 2021 in Maryland, which was $26,500. My boat is a 2004 GW 228 Seafarer with the factory hardtop, Yamaha F225 four stroke that had 991 hours at the time of purchase on it and a 2009 aluminum I-beam trailer. Imo, when I see something that's 14 years older that could very well need considerable work just to make it seaworthy, it makes me think your all in expenses are going to be more than what I paid for my boat. Which imo, doesn't make it worth it to me. Not trying to discourage you or anything of the sort, just my opinions and what I paid for my boat so you can somewhat compare prices here. If you're set on looking strictly for a 232 Gulfstream, I'd honestly look for one that's newer, that has a SeaV2 hull design, uses the Greenwood XL and needs a bit less work. Unless you really feel like the boat is worth it to you and/or you can get it for a price that you think makes sense. Even at say $15k though, if you did put $10k more into it, that's nearing $30k, which would beg the question of is it actually worth $30k when all is said and done? If you think so and you can stay under what you think it's worth and still make a profit if you went to sell it tomorrow then by all means go for it. I look at items as an investment where I don't want to spend more on something than what it is worth, unless it's something that has sentimental value to me. My boat for example, I've probably got around $30k total into it at this point and out here it's a $55k-$65k boat. So, I'd still make quite a bit of money off of it, if I wanted to sell it tomorrow. But, if I had $55k into the boat or more, and it's only worth $55k, then it doesn't make sense to me to buy it as a couple seasons from now you'll be upside down on it. Just my thoughts and opinions, of course.

 

[luckydude]

Do not waste your time or money on a boat with an SV1 hull. Find a boat with the SV 2 hull. It will be a superior ride and is what gives the Grady its reputation. Also I can’t speak for the 232 but on my Seafarer the main tank was installed first and then the fiberglass . That resulted in the deck plate opening being 1 inch smaller then the tank. The only way to remove it was to cut the fiberglass way back ,remove and install the tank and then reglass. Not easy and not cheap. The aux tank can be removed easier by first removing the water tank and then sliding out the aux tank. That may be why the aux tank is being replaced and not the main. Can you say MONEY PIT.

I echo the money pit comment. I sort of went this route with my 1st boat, an older Triumph. Had that boat for 2 years, fought with it the whole time, got one fish. In 2 years.

I went crazy the opposite direction and bought new. While I'm happy with my choice, a far wiser choice would have been to look around and find a ~10 year old boat, ideally repowered. Grady makes a nice hull but 30 years old screams money pit to me.

On the other hand, one of my fishing buddies has a 1999 228. He had it at my place because I'm replacing my hardtop with a pilot house and he got my hard top. It was neat to see the pair of 228s in my driveway, mine almost new and his 21 years old. You really had to look closely to see any difference in the boats. But his has wear and tear that mine doesn't have yet.

I'd keep looking, find something more recent.