1998 208 Adventure

[fishgo208]

Last year I bought my first Grady. At 55 I have owned my share of boats. I must say Last year was the best boating year I have experinced. That being said I am sitting here thinking what I should be doing in the spring. The boat was maintained and rack stored at the Grady dealership it was bought at. It has a 1998 175hp YAMAHA on it that ran like a dream last year. The boat and motor is in exellent shape. The engine is carbarated and the Impella and water pump were replace in 2006. My question is what should I be looking for as this boat is now 10 years old. I would like to stay ahead of any problems. Any imput would be helpful. Thanks in advance. FISHGO

 

[cdwood]

Keep an eye on the transom. The point where the hulls join across the transom must be kept watertight as well as any other points that will allow water intrusion ie: brass motor well drains, garboard drain, engine mounting bolts, scuppers and so on. 10 year old gas tanks also need to monitored closely. Depending on how anal you are will determine where you go from here. Even a boat that's "only" 10 years old can become an obsession.

If your looking to extend engine life talk to someone like jimmy or barnacle bill, both members of this site. jimmy might also be able to give you other advise regarding your rig.

 

[CJBROWN]

If it doesn't have a 10micron fuel filter inline, install one. If it does, change the filter.

Change the lower unit gear lube.
Replace the spark plugs.

If you're not running ring-free get a bottle and add to your first fill up.

Remove the prop and grease the splines and shaft, replace the cotter pin. Consider obtaining a spare nut and thrust washer, possibly even a spare prop.

Test your bilge pump. If it has an auto-float, install an LED in the dash that lights up when it runs.

Spread all the canvas out and wash it down with convertible top cleaner and treat it with 303 fabric protectant or convertible top treatment. They are a UV inhibitor. Simple green works good for cleaning too.

Wax all of the fiberglass, topsides and coamings/house, etc. Polish all the stainless and apply wax. Repair any chips in gel coat that you may find when you do this. Polish the windshield with chrome polish to remove any hard water spots. Clean and apply 303 to the rub rail.

Clean all vinyl upholstery with a good vinyl care cleaner and treat with 303 Protectant (UV inhibitor).

If the batteries are more than five years old replace them. Do a good charge cycle with an electronic charger and test them if not. Clean the terminals and make sure the acid level is up to the fill rings or add distilled water.

Assemble an emergency spares and tool kit.

Inspect all drain hoses and clamps, fuel hoses and clamps.

Check thru-bolts for tightness on all cleats and railing stantion bases.

If you have trim tabs check the pump fluid level, top up with ATF if required.

Inspect all lighting, switches, and fuse panels for corrosion, clean and apply metal protectant (my favorite is Amsoil MP, but have used WD for half a century :wink: )

Pull out your anchor rode and dock lines and wash in a bucket of water and laundry detergent, flush well and spread out to dry. Inspect lines for wear and safety-wire shackles.

That's about all I can think of off the top of my head... :shock:

Oh, and go out and enjoy your boat!

 

[cdwood]

All good stuff from CJ for annual maintenance and if you look further you will continue to find things that you can do to stay on top of things that will add years to your boat

 

[gradyfish22]

Excellent reply from CJ, just one thing about plugs, no point in changing them until the boat is ran a few times. If it is winterized, run that stuff out on the old plugs, and after 3-5 trips put brand new ones in. No sense in possibly fouling new plugs. I've done it this way for years and I've never had a fouled plug on any engine. Also, I would recommend that the lower unit oil be replaced in the fall, not spring. I like to do this in case some water did get in there, if there is some water in the lower unit, it can freeze, expand and damage your lower unit. To prevent this, I change it in the fall when I winterize the boat. Also, when you change the lower unit oil, put new gasket rings on the plugs, do not use the old ones, this is often a source for water to leak into the lower unit.

 

[fishgo208]

Thanks for the advice! I will look for 303?? have not tryed this yet. I did put up the curtians properly,compound,polished and waxed. flitz on the SS. I am a bit anal but thats what makes it fun for me. I did have the dealer winterize for me this year (the tuna stayed in close late into the season which ran into the deer season) just ran out of time. They did all except change the fuel filter. (not sure if this is a 10 micron) I plan to change it in the spring. I also will be installing trim tabs. Last summer the seas on the north shore here off gloucester Ma. were up 3 to 5s off shore almost every weekend! It would lay down during the week. Very frustrating but we slugged it out and did manage to boat a few bluefin. The 208 WAS put to the test and all I can say is I love this boat. I do read the posts here often and have learned alot from you guys. I notice you all talk about gas tanks often. I have do not have a full deck plate to inspect the tank?? How do you do this?

 

[Bread]

Chris Brown, Nice post! thank you

 

[seasick]

Thanks for the advice! I will look for 303?? have not tryed this yet. I did put up the curtians properly,compound,polished and waxed. flitz on the SS. I am a bit anal but thats what makes it fun for me. I did have the dealer winterize for me this year (the tuna stayed in close late into the season which ran into the deer season) just ran out of time. They did all except change the fuel filter. (not sure if this is a 10 micron) I plan to change it in the spring. I also will be installing trim tabs. Last summer the seas on the north shore here off gloucester Ma. were up 3 to 5s off shore almost every weekend! It would lay down during the week. Very frustrating but we slugged it out and did manage to boat a few bluefin. The 208 WAS put to the test and all I can say is I love this boat. I do read the posts here often and have learned alot from you guys. I notice you all talk about gas tanks often. I have do not have a full deck plate to inspect the tank?? How do you do this?

There are two inspection covers over the tank. One will allow access to the fuel sender and pickup lines and the forward one will allow access to the fill and vent connections. You should be able to see what the tank is made of. Early 208s had aluminum tanks which became an issue. Later years have poly tanks which hold up well. I din't think all tanks changed in a specific model year. You should routinley check the hose connections for leaks, worn hoses, etc.
BTW, it is really difficult to check the transom for moisture without a moisture meter. Delamination of the transom has been an issue on some models including the 208 but by the time delamination is evident, a lot of damage is done. If the moisture meter shows excessive moisture, you need to find the source of it and address it.

 

[enfish]

Thanks for the advice! I will look for 303?? have not tryed this yet. I did put up the curtians properly,compound,polished and waxed. flitz on the SS. I am a bit anal but thats what makes it fun for me. I did have the dealer winterize for me this year (the tuna stayed in close late into the season which ran into the deer season) just ran out of time. They did all except change the fuel filter. (not sure if this is a 10 micron) I plan to change it in the spring. I also will be installing trim tabs. Last summer the seas on the north shore here off gloucester Ma. were up 3 to 5s off shore almost every weekend! It would lay down during the week. Very frustrating but we slugged it out and did manage to boat a few bluefin. The 208 WAS put to the test and all I can say is I love this boat. I do read the posts here often and have learned alot from you guys. I notice you all talk about gas tanks often. I have do not have a full deck plate to inspect the tank?? How do you do this?

Fishgo, there's a good chance your gas tank will be the poly tank. Our hull is a 1995, which originally had an aluminum tank. But the hull was replaced under warranty in 1998 because the hull delaminated and split along one of the strakes. When the hull was replaced, GW put in a poly tank. It's much easier to maintain, IMO. You'll be able to tell what it is when you pop the inspection ports.

Also, you'll love the trim tabs. Night and day difference in the ride. Hands down the best upgrade we've done to the boat.